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A walk in Whitehall and other London, United Kingdom General Tips

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London General Tips by toonsarah

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toonsarah   
Never judge a man until you've walked two moons in his moccasins


Real Name: Sarah
Lives In: Ealing, UK
Member Since: Jul 30, 2005
VT Rank: 36

 
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Walks and itineraries: A walk in Whitehall
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  • Written by toonsarah on Jun 25, 2007
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  • Dominik taking photos on the Mall
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  • Favorite Thing: Although London is a large city and you’ll need to use public transport or taxis to get around some of the time, it’s also very walkable. I want to share some of my favourite routes with you, starting with this one through the Whitehall area, which is always the first one I think of when visitors ask me to “show them London”. This tip isn’t about any of the places on the route in detail as you can find out about them elsewhere on my pages and many others – it’s simply an overview of a route I would recommend :)

    Fondest Memory: Start in Trafalgar Square, deservedly one of the most famous spots in London. When you’ve finished exploring the square, leave by the south-west corner through Admiralty Arch – you’ll find yourself on the Mall with a fine view down its full length to Buckingham Palace. Tempting as it is to head for this landmark, try to resist, and instead turn left after a short distance to enter St James’s Park, one of my favourite parts of London. Head diagonally right to reach its centrepiece, the lovely lake, and pause to stand on the bridge. Here you’ll get an even better view of Buckingham Palace and of all the buildings of Whitehall. You can now follow a circular route around the lake, which at its far end will take you much closer to the Palace – now is the time to detour to see it properly.

    Retrace your steps, or follow the opposite side of the lake. You might think about now of pausing for refreshments – a picnic in the park, a snack from a kiosk or maybe a meal at Inn the Park, a well-regarded restaurant (which I’ve yet to try). When you’re refreshed, leave the park roughly halfway along its eastern edge, which will bring you to Horseguards’ Parade. Cross the parade ground and go through the arch where you’ll find yourself on Whitehall itself. You’ll want to take the obligatory photo of the guards before heading south. You’ll soon come to the turning for Downing Street but don’t expect to be able to take it – the road has been closed to all but official visitors for security reasons ever since the IRA campaign of the 1980s. Whitehall shortly becomes Parliament Street, which leads in turn to Parliament Square. You can now check out and maybe visit the Houses of Parliament before finishing your walk at Westminster Abbey (although if you do have the energy for more, a walk down Victoria Street will bring you to Westminster Cathedral, its Roman Catholic equivalent.


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    Walks and itineraries: A walk by the Thames
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  • Written by toonsarah on Jun 25, 2007
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  • Favorite Thing: Although London is a large city and you’ll need to use public transport or taxis to get around some of the time, it’s also very walkable. I want to share some of my favourite routes with you. This one takes in part of the River Thames and finishes in Covent Garden, ideal if you want to combine a sightseeing morning with a shopping afternoon, or a sightseeing afternoon with an evening out. Please bear in mind that my tip isn’t about any of the places on the route in detail as you can find out about them elsewhere on my pages and many others – it’s simply an overview of a route I would recommend :)

    Fondest Memory: Start at Westminster tube, leaving via the exit marked Westminster Bridge. Before crossing, pause for a view of the Houses of Parliament and the statue of Boudicca guarding the approach to the bridge. Cross the River Thames – if the current work on the bridge is finished you’ll have wonderful views west to the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and beyond. When you reach the far side turn left to walk past the old County Hall building, which now houses a modern art gallery and aquarium (depending on your interests you may want to visit either or both!) and the ticket office for the London Eye though ideally you’ll have booked in advance for this. There are a number of refreshment options here, and look out too for some examples of modern art that appear to have strayed from the gallery!

    When you’ve exhausted the possibilities here, continue along the river to the South Bank complex. This group of buildings includes the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall and Hayward Gallery, another modern art space which regularly has great exhibitions. This is another area to consider for refreshments, or nearby Jubilee Gardens for a picnic. The complex continues beyond Waterloo Bridge with the National Theatre but unless you have tickets for a play I suggest you retrace your steps at this point to cross back over the river via the new Millennium Footbridge. This is in two halves either side of the old railway bridge – choose the eastern one for great views of St Paul’s Cathedral and the City of London as you’ll have had the westerly views earlier. On the far side enter Embankment tube station, walk straight through and ahead up Villiers Street to the Strand. Look left to see Charing Cross, but turn right and soon after left along Southampton Street which will bring you to Covent Garden with its market, shops and numerous pubs, pars and restaurants.


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    Londoners: Living statues
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  • Written by toonsarah on Jul 1, 2007
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  • Favorite Thing: Like every big city, London has its fair share of these “living statues”, and of course they range from average (or worse) to excellent in terms of their style, their ability to stay “frozen” and their entertainment value when they finally move :)

    The first two photos were taken on a recent Sunday on the South Bank. I liked the elegance of the first man’s costume, and the humour of the second, posing as a dog! The third was also taken on the South Bank, earlier in the year. Other good places to find them are Covent Garden, Leicester Square, various parks – in fact anywhere that lots of people are to be found.



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    The Thames: London's river
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  • Written by toonsarah on May 10, 2008
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  • Favorite Thing: Like many cities, London would not be where it is today were it not for its river. Yet for many years the city seemed to turn its back on its famous waterway, regarding more as a barrier between the north and the south of the city than as a feature to be enjoyed and celebrated. Nowadays though the river is one of the delights of London, and a walk on its banks (preferably the south bank where there are fewer roads) is a wonderful way to spend a few hours. My own favourite stretches are near the Southbank Centre where Sunday afternoons are particularly lively, and further east near the modern buildings surrounding City Hall. From both of these stretches there are particularly fine views across the river to some of London’s most famous landmarks – Parliament and Westminster from the former, the Tower of London and Tower Bridge from the latter. In 1802 the poet Wordsworth was inspired by the view from Westminster Bridge to write his famous sonnet, “Composed upon Westminster Bridge”, which still for me has one of the most beautiful views in the city:

    Earth has not anything to show more fair:
    Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
    A sight so touching in its majesty:
    This City now doth like a garment wear
    The beauty of the morning;


    Not all visitors realise that the Thames is tidal for all of its length in the centre of the capital - ocean tides move up the river as far as the south-western suburbs. You can see the effects of this at low tide, when muddy stretches are revealed on either bank. Years ago poor children would eke out a living as “mud-larks”, searching for anything of value that had been buried in the mud, and treasure hunters still do the same today.

    The river has long been a focus for public celebration, for instance with the famous 17th and 18th century Frost Fairs, held on the river when it occasionally froze, with barbecues, stalls, fairground amusements and performing animals. The winter of 1813-14 saw the greatest and last Frost Fair. The replacement of the old London Bridge in 1831 meant that the river flowed faster and no longer froze sufficiently to bear public events.

    This tradition of using the river as a focal point for events has however been revived in recent years, with the current city administration organising wonderful fireworks displays on New Year’s Eve, and a series of free festivals on its banks throughout the year. For instance in September is the Mayor’s Thames Festival, an annual free event celebrating the river. The Festival takes place in the heart of London, between Westminster Bridge and Tower Bridge, on the river banks and on the adjacent riverside walkways and public open spaces.

    Directions If you spend any time at all in London you won’t be able to avoid the river. Try Embankment (District & Circle lines), Waterloo (Jubilee, Northern & Bakerloo lines), London Bridge (Jubilee & Northern lines) or Tower Hill (District & Circle lines) to be sure of getting quite close.



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    Walks and itineraries: Out and about in Soho
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  • Written by toonsarah on Jul 25, 2008
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  • Favorite Thing: For a lively walk in the heart of London, you can’t do any better than head for Soho! Much of its dynamism results from the fact that it is probably the most culturally diverse corner of this very diverse city. Over the years French, Germans, Italians, Russian and Polish Jews, Swiss, Greeks and Chinese have been attracted to settle in this area, and all of them have left their mark on it. If you want to experience cosmopolitan London at its most vibrant, and don't have a problem with crowds, this is the place for you!

    To me there are three distinct Sohos, each of which overlap to some extent. Firstly, there is Chinatown, largely focused on the southern part of this district. The heart of this part is Gerrard Street, with its Chinese style arches at each end and a plethora of Chinese restaurants and supermarkets selling exotic ingredients along its length. While the restaurants are of mixed quality (the presence of local Chinese families eating there is your best clue in a rapidly changing environment), this is the place to come for the quintessential Chinatown night out. Always busy, this part of Soho reaches a peak of excitement in February each year when Chinese New Year is celebrated by local Chinese, other Londoners and visitors to the city with a parade and fireworks.

    Secondly, what you might call “sleazy Soho”. The district was once famous as the centre of London's vice industry, and although it has been very much cleaned up by the authorities remnants cling on in the sex shops and “men only” clubs. These are scattered throughout the area, with perhaps a concentration on and around Wardour Street, but although you may find them distasteful you shouldn’t feel threatened by their presence in any way – although if you’re travelling with children you could find that they provoke one or two questions you’d rather not have to answer.

    Thirdly, the most animated part of the district in my view, gay Soho, centred on Old Compton Street and its off-shoots such as Greek and Frith Streets. Soho has always been the most tolerant part of London and is now the heart of the capital's vibrant gay scene. This will be apparent to anyone walking these streets, but should not deter straight visitors from spending time here; this is a very inclusive community and I know from my own experience that pubs and bars are likely to welcome all comers equally. This is also the heart of the Italian part of Soho, with the wonderful institution that is Bar Italia and many other great coffee shops besides. Sit at a pavement café with a cappuccino and watch the world go by – a people-watcher’s paradise!


    Fondest Memory: We came here to watch the World Cup Final in 2006 and when Italy won everyone spilled out onto the streets to party – see photos 2 & 3. As Chris is part-Italian, he was very happy to join in the celebrations :)

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    Architectural: Exploring Bloomsbury
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  • Written by toonsarah on Jul 25, 2008
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  • Favorite Thing: This is one of my favourite parts of London. Many tourists come here to visit the British Museum, but not all of them take the time to explore its pretty squares and historic streets, which I think is a shame.

    Part of its charm lies in its coherence. Despite many modern intrusions, it is still easy to capture the spirit of the development of this area by the local Russell family in the 17th and 18th centuries, when they turned it gradually it into a fashionable residential area. More recently, in the early 20th century, it gave its name to the Bloomsbury Group of writers and artists, many of whom lived in the area. These included writers Virginia Woolf and E. M. Forster, and artists such as Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell, and Roger Fry.


    Fondest Memory: One of the delights of Bloomsbury is the large number of leafy squares, many (but not all) open to the public. These include:
    Bedford Square – one of my favourites in terms of architecture, with some of the best-preserved Georgian town houses in London, although unfortunately for most of us the square itself is only open to residents (photos 1-3)
    Russell Square – has a central area large enough to almost feel like a small park (its open-air café is a pleasant place to pause for refreshments), the grand Russell Hotel on its east side, the 1930s bulk of Senate House, part of the University of London, on the west and on the south side some more lovely houses (photos 4 & 5)
    Bloomsbury Square – another of the open spaces (and actually more rectangle than square), with more lovely houses on three sides and on the fourth, east side, the ornate Victoria House, the one time home of the Royal Liverpool and Victoria insurance company, now an office block where until recently I was lucky enough to work
    Queens Square – there is often a good fruit and veg stall here, and the Queen’s Larder pub in the south west corner is a great summer evening drinking spot (OK winter evenings too – it’s quaint and cosy but rather small)
    Tavistock Square – not quite so attractive as the others, but notable, unfortunately, as the site of one of the 7 July 2005 London bombings, to which there is a small memorial in the north east corner of the square


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    Technology and web resources: Useful Websites
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  • Written by toonsarah on Feb 17, 2009
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  • Favorite Thing: A quick search with Google will reveal literally hundreds of websites devoted to different aspects of London so I won’t repeat them all here, but here are just a few that I can recommend:
    Transport for London, with an interactive Tube map, bus routes, ticket info and much more
    the Evening Standard, London’s evening paper with a good “What’s On section”
    Time Out, the capital’s main listings magazine with a great online version
    Kudos Cities London, the London site of this website which offers people the opportunity to share knowledge, info and services – well worth checking out and maybe joining in a discussion or two
    Visit London, the official tourist info service with accommodation listings, ideas on sightseeing and other useful sections – but unlike the sites listed above definitely aimed at the visitor rather than the local so I can’t claim to have made use of it myself



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    Historical: City of London
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  • Written by toonsarah on May 7, 2009
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  • Favorite Thing: Although London itself is a city, not everyone realises that within its boundaries lies another city, the original City of London, sometimes referred to as the “Square Mile”. This small city dates back to the Middle Ages, and with its neighbour Westminster was the core around which the sprawling modern metropolis developed. But it has remained an autonomous (at local government level) authority and has a culture and atmosphere all its own.

    There are probably two main reasons to come here – history and money. Indeed the term “The Square Mile” is used not only to designate the geographical area but also London’s financial services industry. Prior to the recession, and to some extent even now during it, London owes its international standing and much of its wealth to the activities that happen in just this small corner of the metropolis. That wealth is evident in the large number of modern office blocks squeezed into this small space, and any admirer of modern architecture will find something to appeal to them here. My own and many others’ favourite is the so-called “Gherkin”, more properly known as 30 St Mary Axe, designed by Sir Norman Foster and built to house the London headquarters of a Swiss bank. This is at present the second tallest building in the City; the tallest is Tower 42 (formerly known as the Nat West Tower and still called that by many Londoners, me included!) This is 42 storeys and 183 metres high, but it will be surpassed by the currently under construction Pinnacle or “Helter-Skelter” which is planned to rise to a massive 288 metres, and which looks set to become another iconic building for London.

    For history buffs, the City of London offers even more than it does for fans of modern architecture. This history goes back to Roman times, with the building of the city wall within which the mediaeval city later developed. You can still see fragments of this wall in the grounds of the (excellent) Museum of London and in the area around the Tower of London. It was during this medieval period that the growth of London really accelerated, happening in two distinct areas. The nearby up-river town of Westminster became the Royal capital and centre of government, while here the City of London developed as the centre of commerce and trade. It was not until around 1600 that the area between them became entirely built-up, so it is not surprising that to this day they retain such different cultures and atmospheres.

    The defining historical moment in the history of the City was the Great Fire of 1666. It ripped through the heart of the mediaeval maze of streets, and after it had passed grand plans were proposed to rebuild the city on more modern lines, with grand boulevards such as those already shaping the centre of Paris. The main proponent of this plan was the architect Sir Christopher Wren, and at the centre of his plan was to be a majestic cathedral. That cathedral was St Paul’s, and indeed it is wonderful, but the rest of his plan never cam to fruition, and many of us are glad that it did not. Instead the new city grew up on much the same street pattern as the old one and it that pattern that makes the City what it is today. You can still trace the winding lanes in today’s narrow passageways, and the small size and irregular shape of the city blocks has given rise to real inventiveness in modern building design as epitomised by the Gherkin and Pinnacle.


    Fondest Memory: The main historical sights to be seen in the City include the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral, numerous other Wren churches (i.e. designed by Sir Christopher Wren to replace those lost in the Great Fire), the Monument (marking the site of the same Great Fire), the Royal Courts of Justice and the Inns of Court, the Guildhall, the Royal Exchange and many more. There is a good suggested walking tour on the website below, although I think the idea that you might complete this is one day is very optimistic (unless you choose not to stop anywhere at all en route). There are also plenty of quaint historic pubs when you’re in need of refreshment, but be warned that these get very busy at lunch-times and in the period immediately after work (5.00 – 7.00 PM) and can be very quiet later in the evening and at weekends – indeed, the whole city takes on an altogether sleepier atmosphere at that time.

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    Comments for toonsarah about London
    ViajesdelMundo Thu Oct 29, 2009 15:57 UTC
     Yes, the time passed all too quickly! great group photo, I hope you don't mind I have captured it.
    unaS Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:35 UTC
     Great photos of what looks like it must have been a fun Meet!
    Nemorino Fri Oct 16, 2009 13:18 UTC
     Me again, coming back to check out your new tips since March 13th. Now I know why the coats at the Bluecoat Schools were blue! I haven't been back to London since my daughter's graduation, but I can see I'll have to return and do some serious sightseeing.
    Sunilks Thu Oct 1, 2009 11:24 UTC
     One of the most intresting tips I have ever seen on VT or somewhere else . Thanks for the efforts .
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