Ourika Restaurant Tips by toonsarah

Auberge Ramuntchko: Bit pricey but worth it

The original plan had been to eat in Setti Fatma, the village at the head of the valley where the paved road runs out and the paths to the waterfalls begin. But when we got there it was very busy and I didn’t especially relish the idea of negotiating the groups of hikers on my crutches, so we asked Mokhtar if there were any good alternatives. He vetoed our suggestion of eating at one of the roadside cafés – I had been charmed by the pretty riverside setting of many of them but he insisted that the food there wasn’t “safe”. Mind you, our hostess at Les Lauriers Blancs said the same about the food served in the Night Market of the Djamaa el Fna and we ate there without any repercussions.

Still, the cafés were out, so instead Mokhtar brought us to a small hotel about halfway up the valley (or rather down, as we had already been to its head). Tables for lunch were laid out in the restaurant and on a sunny terrace, and the weather was absolutely perfect to tempt us to opt for the latter. We were a bit disconcerted to be brought a menu for a set (and quite pricey) three course meal, but when we told the waiter that we only wanted a light meal he said we could choose a single dish from any of the courses. So we both selected one of the starters – Chris chose grilled goats cheese served on toast with some salad, and I liked the sound of a dish called Choutchouka which the waiter explained was a sort of Moroccan version of ratatouille. It proved to be probably the nicest thing I ate throughout the week of our stay! Yes, it was a bit like ratatouille, but spicier, with chillies included in the mix of vegetables. It was served chilled and topped with several delicious chunks of citrons confits, the typical Moroccan preserved lemons which I love. We also asked for bread and olives, both of which were excellent. We shared a big bottle of sparkling water and had coffees afterwards, and paid 250 dirhams including service. This is quite expensive for Morocco but we knew we were paying hotel prices, and taking into account the setting, the accommodating waiter and the quality of the food, we both agreed it was worth it.

Incidentally if you’re looking to stay in the Ourika Valley and don’t mind paying for somewhere nice, I would check this out. It looked a lovely spot, the building was interestingly and tastefully decorated (I sneaked a look when I went to the ladies) and there was a lovely swimming pool and sun terrace.

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: Just off the road on your right as you ascend the valley (signposted but I imagine easy to miss if you’re driving yourself)

Price: US$11-20

Rating: 4

Theme: Eclectic/International