Sri Lanka Transportation Tips by Maxus

'Mode': AROUND
Category: Train
Getting TO/AROUND: Perhaps the easiest way to get around Sri Lanka is to hire a car complete with driver but the roads are often in bad condition and usually crowded. The trains get crowded too but seeing Sri Lanka by rail is infinitely more fun than by car. Sri Lankan trains are easy to use and cheap as chips. You can reach most of the major destinations by train and the journey is an experience in itself, you also get to meet real people.

If you are on a package deal a train journey is the perfect introduction to independent travel. Most of the resorts (Negombo, Kalutara, Bentota, Hikkaduwa etc) have a railway station and frequent trains. Why not try a short trip first? You can just turn up at the station and see whats going where, buy a ticket from the office and climb aboard. For example, should you find yourself in Beruwala or Bentota you can walk to Aluthgama station and take a trip down to Galle. Galle station is in the city centre and five minutes walk from the fort. The departures and arrivals are written up in English so there really isnt a problem finding your way back, Trains to the north all stop at Aluthgama. The train is likely to be busy but if you travel down mid-morning and back mid-afternoon you miss the commuter crowds.

Trains to the Hill Country have a first class section where you are guaranteed a seat and the night trains have sleepers, you will need to pre-book these but you can usually do this on the day. On the west coast most trains have only second and third, go for second. Real train buffs should read the excellent, Sri Lanka by Rail, by Royston Ellis.

Public transport gets particularly busy at weekends and public holidays and as ever, you need to watch out for touts, who are usually single males. Do not be afraid to strike up conversation with groups of travellers, you will make new friends and they will keep the touts away.

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Website: http://www.seat61.com/SriLanka.htm

'Mode': AROUND
Category: Other
Getting TO/AROUND: Public transport is cheap in Sri Lanka so there really is no economic advantage to hitching a ride but if you find a friendly lorry driver going your way its a good way to get around. You are guaranteed a seat and as large vehicles have right of way in Sri Lanka, its usually pretty quick.

You should discuss any expected contribution towards the diesel in advance (it may cost you no more than the drivers lunch) and the usual warnings apply to woman travelling alone etc.

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'Mode': AROUND
Category: Car/Motor Home
Getting TO/AROUND: For most visitors hiring a car complete with driver is the most practical way to see as much of Sri Lanka as possible in a short time. Public transport is arguably more interesting but for long journeys you cannot always be sure of getting to where you want to be on the actual day you want to be there, particularly on the train.

It’s a brave tourist who attempts to drive their own vehicle in Sri Lanka, it simply isn’t practical or safe and hiring a car without a driver will certainly not save you money. AC cars complete with driver are cheap and widely available.

We had lots of fun with this Jeep but to be honest it was death trap.

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'Mode': AROUND
Category: Car/Motor Home
Getting TO/AROUND: You can have a good holiday in Sri Lanka during the rainy season but it will effect your travel plans so extra time should be allowed, roads and even the railway can become impassable in the worst effected areas.

The Paragoda car ferry, shown here in January of 2003 was out of action following the rains of June 2006 (click of the photo to see the difference).

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'Mode': AROUND
Category: Train
Getting TO/AROUND: A rail trip 'up country' to Badulla can be one of the highlights of your holiday, book yourself into the first-class observation car and you can do it in comparative comfort.

I like second class train travel in Sri Lanka because you get to meet real people but the novelty soon wears off if you are forced to stand in a crowded carriage (with unsanitary toilets) for hours on end. Reserving a seat in the first class observer carriage can give you the best of both worlds and its as cheap as chips.

You might be able to do a deal with the guard on the train but to be sure of a seat you really do need to book in advance, there is a special window at Colombo Fort station for first class reservations- try not to leave it too late.

Don’t expect the Orient Express (and the seats usually face the wrong way) but compared to the rest of the train the first class car is real luxury.

The excellent website (below) will help you plan your trip.

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Website: http://www.seat61.com/SriLanka.htm

'Mode': AROUND
Category: Bus
Getting TO/AROUND: The fastest way to get from A to B in Sri Lanka is by ac bus but of course there is a drawback - they are driven by mad men. The brick under the back wheel to stop us rolling down the gentle slope at Horana bus station and the utterly bald tyres spoke volumes about the service history of our vehicle, knackered buses ain’t unusual in Sri Lanka but the other ones travel quite slowly - ac buses are the quickest thing on the road (short of a ministerial car).

People actually queue to board an AC bus and once on board you are guaranteed a seat because passengers are not supposed to stand. There is no room to stow your baggage other than on your knee but having your bag between you and the seat in front of you like some auxiliary airbag gives you some sense of security.

AC bus drivers are all young (rather like fighter pilots) they don’t so much drive the bus as launch it into the traffic like some medieval knight riding into battle, the horn is applied continuously.

So they’re dangerous but hey, it’s cool on board, it’s quick and I’m in a hurry.

Tinted windows and curtains spoil the view and people tend to snooze rather than talk but they usually get you to where you want to be and it’s as quick as anything else on the road so if you have an important journey to make ac bus is your best option.

Ac buses are popular so at busy times you should try and get one at the point of origin otherwise they may be full.

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'Mode': AROUND
Category: Car/Motor Home
Getting TO/AROUND: During security alerts you are likely to be stopped at checkpoints, it’s not so scary the armed forces are usually very polite and helpful. Your Sri Lankan friends will need to produce their ID but sudos (whites) are usually waved on, although you are supposed to have you passport with you.

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'Mode': AROUND
Category: Bus
Getting TO/AROUND: Getting a bus at its point of origin means you might just get a seat, they often depart every 10 or 15 minutes so if the one about to leave is full it might be worth waiting for the next one, which may already be standing in the bus station. You buy your ticket on board.

The ticket man is the one with the book and the pen and he will find you. Sinhalese conversation is uncluttered with social niceties, you simply state your destination and hold up the right number of fingers. If you hand over a large note it may disappear but your change usually appears in the end. Long distance buses will probably stop for lunch at a roadside eatery and people will get off to eat or just stretch their legs. It is no good creeping back on board early to get a better seat, everyone gets back into their same seat and you will be asked to move.

I have had bus journeys from hell, I have sat on broken seats in cramped overcrowded buses as they lunge from pothole to pothole through hot noisy towns but at its best bus travel can be a real pleasure. It is early evening, your ancient bus rattles its way through the Sri Lankan countryside, a breeze blows through the open window and you have got nothing to do but watch village life speed past and return smiles and waves from locals. In the bus Sinhalese music blasts from the stereo system while a plastic Buddha, surrounded by assorted Hindu Gods, coloured lights and garish artificial flowers, looks serenely back along the bus telling you that worrying is pointless.

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'Mode': AROUND
Category: Bus
Getting TO/AROUND: Buses get full and there isnt much room for luggage to start with but don't let your bag occupy a seat when people are standing. Once on board, hide yourself in a corner or expect to give your seat up to anyone who is old, pregnant, has a disability or is carrying a child. Anyone with a bag might pass you it to nurse while they hang onto the bars for grim death.

Certain seats (usually those immediately behind the driver) are reserved for Buddhist monks – do not even think about it! The monk may be 19 years old and as fit as a butchers dog but he gets a seat no matter what. In Sri Lanka it is a very bad idea to **** off a monk, who is a personification of the Buddha himself, he might not challenge you but other Sinhalese people certainly will. Young women should not sit next to a Monk, ask someone to swap if it is the only seat. Try to remember that they are not your buses and even though you may not notice that your behaviour is being observed, it undoubtedly is.

Buses are naturally busiest on high days, holidays and before and after school, to encourage attendance at school children in school uniform travel free during the week.

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'Mode': AROUND
Category: Bus
Getting TO/AROUND: When out and about (and particularly when travelling by bus) try and keep hold of some coins or small denomination notes, partly to buy your ticket with but also to hand out to the various entertainers, beggars and hawkers who will pass through the bus before you set off. They are rarely too pushy and most people are happy enough with 20 or 30 rupees.

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