"The best of Vancouver Island" a Victoria Travel Page by biophilia

Growing up across the water in the quaint, Britishish berg of Victoria, I always giggled at the prospect of Vancouver being the "greatest city in the world". I find the bustle unnerving; my stops there are short; my time spent on logistical matters of meetings and the occasional concert. You see with Vancouver Island at my disposal, when I manage a little time to roam it is spent out of the city.

First lets get things straight. It is NOT Victoria Island it is Vancouver Island. Victoria the capital city of British Columbia (a city that was lucky enough to have me as a resident for my first 17 years), is at the southern most tip of Vancouver Island. Vancouver is on the mainland - AKA on the mainland continent of North America.

Verily I say unto you: go north dear traveller! Spend little time in the shopping / government / pretty garden city of Victoria and venture into the wet and wild places that grace this coast with an abundance of ancient ecosystems and rich aboriginal culture. Though much of the natural magnificence has been mismanaged to bits (80% of the island has succumb to logging and the planting of sterile "tree forests" of which you will assume, as I did for many years, is the natural landscape), the places to see are still many.

If I had a couple weeks to go see the island here's where I would go:

1) Salt Spring Island (my neighbours are going to kill me for telling you) is one of few places that marries agriculture and wilderness so magically. Be sure to drop by the disk/frisbee golf course set in real old growth forest to see cedars that took root before Columbus took route. The famous market is on Saturday right in Ganges - the wealth of artists on this island is insane. Biking is a great option for those tough in the leg as there are hills a plenty. Mt. Erskine offers views all the way to Nanaimo (100km away) after a 1.5 hour hike.

2) Tofino - though overrun with touristas these days it is for good reason that over one million people visit this tiny village every year. Amazing beaches, good surf, big trees off the beaten track, and more. If you are looking to go on the cheap - sneak and find a campsite on the beach - forget it: there is no place to do this anymore. You will need to spend money for a campsite and book before if you are going in the heavy season. Cabins and such for rent through the tourist board are now $3000 a week! Oh my gosh. See "By Trail" for more stuff on this area.

3) Cathedral Grove - On the way to Tofino, just before Port Alberni, stop at this little piece of old growth forest and imagine the pre-steam ship, pre-chain saw paradise that was inhabited for more than 10,000 years by First Nations people. Right now they are trying to pave a wee patch of this paradise to (you guessed it) put in a parking lot. Believe me that's not the worst of it.

4) Alert Bay - On the northern end of the island is the amazing little village of Alert Bay. Half First Nations and half non-native, this island is both environmentally active, culturally vibrant, and widely accepting of people's natural diversity. The cultural center here is a must see - I was in tears the first time I walked in the door; it is beautiful. (Be sure to save your pennies to buy many of the crafts, fantastic local native artwork, and tasteful souveniers at the cultural centre's gift shop.) There is a brand new big house with massive posts at least 12 feet in circumference carved as powerful totems holding up a 50 foot roof. I have been lucky enough to see cultural dancing there thrice. You get there by taking a ferry from Port McNeil (on of the many island towns living out it's Karma for being gluttonous beyond measure with its once abundant natural resources). There is a great campsite in Alert Bay.

1) Flores Island Heritage Trail - This island has a beach and headland trail 16 km one-way to the top of mount Flores through Ahousaht First Nations traditional territory. The beaches are white, the trees big, and the history long. The hiking is easy until you get to the mountain, which takes several hours to climb. You are almost guarenteed to see whales off of Cow Bay: a vast expanse of white sand it is the most photographed beach in the area. Buy a guidebook and look for heritage signs along the way made by local elders telling stories about the area. There is a fee for hiking the trail that must be paid in Ahousaht - the native village at the beginning of the trail. Take the taxi for around $15 from Tofino to Ahousaht or charter a boat for around $150. I haven't been there in a while. You may need to seek someone out to pay them. Start at the Band Store and the Band Office. This area is wild - I helped build the trail and we saw bears, wolves, and cougar. Cache all food; pack out all your trash; be respectful to the village.

2) Meares Island Big Tree Trail - Big Cedars like you can't imagine. If you haven't seen big trees put this one on your life list. It takes around an hour to walk the easy boardwalk. Get a water taxi from Tofino for hmmmm.... $25? It is worth it:)

3) Barkley Sound - A beginner kayakers paradise. Don't get me wrong: make sure someone knows weather conditions, how to read a navagational chart, and of course swim; but you can't get more convienent than the marked campsites, composting toilets and sandy landings that litter the jeweled islands of Barkley Sound. Again, cache your food, pack out all your garbage etc. If you ask around, people will tell you how to find the old grandfather tree - a moving sight.

4) West Coast Trail - Thank goodness they limit the numbers of hikers ever year on this world class trail! I did the trail in seven days, several years back. It is a muddy, hard slog for most of the year; but it is totally worth it. Unless your in it for the exercise (join a gym and let someone else have your space will ya?), take at least seven days and enjoy the sights. We met someone running the trail overnight when we were there. Forget him and be sure to find a favorite campsite - maybe one of the waterfalls - and stay two nights. Book early: there is probably at least a year of waiting lists - you can also show up and hike standby. It may take a couple of days to get your whole party on the trail, but WTH! Oh yes - don't miss the delightful tide pools.

5) Telegraph Cove - There are two places on Vancouver Island to see orca whales reliably: Telegraph Cove is one, Victoria the other. DON"T go see orca whales in Victoria. The three families of whales that spend the summer months in Victoria are in big trouble. There numbers are declining steadily and they are running out of adult males, who unfortunately are the most polluted of all creatures in the world with PCBs and such. I have seen over a hundred boats at once watching a pod of whales as they try to hunt, travel, and sleep. This is ridiculous! Telegraph Cove is a MUCH BETTER place to see orca. There are more whales that live up there and fewer boats though you may have to travel longer to see them.