Devon Off the Beaten Path Tips by johngayton

The Tarka Trail is a 180-mile figure-of-eight loop of walking, cycling and horse-riding pathways which encompass a "taster" of the magnificent diversity of land and seascape that Devon has to offer. Centred around the thriving mini-metropolis of North Devon - Barnstaple - The Tarka Trail strikes both northwards and south following at times disused railway lines, wooded river valleys, coastal stretches with sheer drops into the Atlantic, the chalk and cheese twins of the county's two moors, and in-between, tracts of rural serenity with ever-fattening herds of sheep and cattle grazing on the lush water-laden greenery which so defines the County of Devon.

The seeds of the trail were sown in 1988 as a local government initiative to counter the then decline in the quality and character of life here in mid to north Devon with modern farming practices, industrial developement and urbanisation threatening the fragile rural ecostructure.

Not only was the rural ecostructure under threat, with particular concerns regarding the water quality of the two main rivers in the area (The Taw and Torridge), but also economically the area was in decline with unemployment above the national average and incomes well below.

And so The Tarka Project was born with a view to reversing both the economic and environmental decline of the area and its success is now viewed as a role model in how the developement of sustainable tourism in an area can have far-reaching benefits, economically, environmentally and socially, given a little seed-funding and a not particularly expensive long-term commitment (approx 70K per annum).

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm

The mainstay of The Tarka Project is The Tarka Trail which was developed using existing footpaths and disused railway lines, with the first section, the 9 miles from Barnstaple to Bideford, completed in 1987. The northern circuit which takes in the stretch of the South West Coastal Path between Braunton and Lynton/Lynmouth before returning across Exmooor to Barnstaple was completed in 1991. The southern loop following the Rivers Taw and Torridge was completed the following year and the Trail officially opened in 1992 by HRH The Prince of Wales.

The present Tarka Trail, which is continually undergoing development as shorter loop trails are added, comprises 4 main sections: the 46 mile cycle/walkway between Ilfracombe and Meeth most of which runs on level, traffic-free, former railway lines (the exception being the stretch between Braunton and Willingcott), the northern loop following the coastal footpath from Ilfracombe to Lynmouth and returning over the moor to Barnstaple, the section between Barnstaple and Eggesford which requires either a train journey on The Tarka Line or a trip down the main A377 road, and finally the footpath south from Eggesford to Belstone on the edge of Dartmoor which then turns north again through Hatherleigh to rejoin the cycle/walkway at Petrockstowe.

The whole trail is waymarked with the distinctive "Tarka the Otter" logo, information boards and rest areas are frequent and all the main joining points accessible by public transport.

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm

It had been a long, long time since I had cycled purely for the pleasure of it and I had all but forgotten the simple joy of pedalling along with no particular hurry to get anywhere specific, just enjoying the fresh air, the changing scenery and the casual bonhomie of the passing encounters with my fellow travellers.

Having recently moved back to North Devon and being about 4 miles from the nearest pub (apart from mine of course) I reckoned it would be a good idea to invest in a new bike (well 2 in fact :-X)). Having bought them I decided that whilst the nearest pub was all very well and fine, there must be more to cycling than just darting off to there whenever the chance arose - i.e. there must be other pubs within my cycling range!!!!

This is why I am falling in love with The Tarka Trail - there are crackin' pubs all along it :-)))

This, my first outing, took me the 6 miles from Barnstaple along the banks of the Taw to join The River Torridge at the picturesque harbour town of Instow and coincidentally The Wayfarer Inn ;-) This really was a beautiful cycle on an unseasonally sunny and warm November day with the gulls and wading birds, feeding in the sun-sparkled shallows of the tidal rivers, and the stunning Devon country side for company. The walkway/cycle path is almost completely level as it follows the disused railway line passing under Victorian viaducts, with the occasional railway gradient marker, bringing to mind the days when the route would have been used by workhorses of steam locomotives hauling goods and passengers from the north to the south of the county.

This really did make for such a pleasant day out that it is now one of my new little projects to cycle the whole trail in the very near future (and visit all the pubs on it too!!!).

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm

Having heard that there were lots of pubs in Braunton, about 6 miles east and slightly north of Barnstaple, the town seemed a natural choice for my next Tarka Trail cycling destination. This stretch of the trail runs, once again, on the disused railway line and follows initially the north bank of the River Taw before veering inland at Chivenor. Whilst a little more built-upon than the south bank this section still affords sweeping river vistas and pastoral rural landscapes as well as some interesting off-trail digressions.

One small word of warning here tho' is that on arrival at Braunton the signage isn't quite as clear as it could be and I found myself taking a wrong turning and ending up in the middle of the sand dunes of the Ministry of Defence's training area - fortunately it wasn't a "Red Flag" day! Also fortuitous is that the rough tracks thro' the dunes do lead out onto Saunton Sands, one of N Devon's best, yet undeveloped, beaches and so the detour wasn't a problem at all.

Finally arriving at Braunton, taking the main road back from Saunton Sands, none of the town pubs really beckoned and so I continued back on the trail the couple of miles to catch a couple of fishcakes (;-)) at The Tarka Inn (4th down) washed down with a perfectly decent pint of Guinness and with a great view across the river to Fremington.

Yep, another great day out and a few beers in Barnstaple rounded it off nicely!!!!

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm

This short, 3-mile, section of The Tarka Trail leaves from the former Instow railway station to arrive about half-an-hour later (having so many photo-ops en-route!!) at the former railway station of Bideford - HA! Which is actually in the entirely separate town of East-The-Water!!!

The cyclepath/walkway here follows the east bank of the mouth of the River Torridge heading south towards Meeth, its terminus in central Devon, and is easily accessible as a footpath by the excellent local bus services, tho' cycling will require starting from Barnstaple.

On the day that I took these photos (there being many more days to come as I continue the trail southwards) I had sort of intended to stop off at The Wayfarer in Instow for lunch and then just make a swift in and out of Bideford before returning to Barnstaple and the crazy guys at The Rolle Quay pub.

Lunch tho' became very much a secondary thought on this crisp November morning, the sky piercingly blue, the cycle a total pleasure and the endochrins stimulating the senses - Ach, lunch (even the alcoholic variety) could wait until the camera had done its bits and the brain absorbed all of the town it could manage before the stomach rebelled and took control!

Yep, that first beer at The Kings Arms about 2.30 was certainly a just reward and the "Cod and Prawn Pie" equally so for the morning's effortless exertions.

Another great day out on the Tarka Trail :-)

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm

160 of the 180 miles of The Tarka Trail is footpath and for the most part entirely infernal-combusting-engine free (except for the odd section where the trail crosses a road). Of the footpath sections; many also double-up as cyclepaths, bridal paths and are even wheelchair accessible, thus opening up this magical hour-glass shaped wodge of Devon to tourists and locals alike.

The anomalous 20 mile stretch between Barnstaple and Eggesford however requires either a train journey or to use the main road (the A377) - or, thinking about it, you could always kayak it!! None of these options are unpleasant. Both the road and the railway line follow the Taw Valley, meandering, as does the river, through the lush mid-Devon pastures, crossing and recrossing the main river and its many major and minor tributaries - and of course if you kayak it...just don't take any turn-offs!!

OK cycling the road is a road cycle but the road isn't hugely busy, the gradients mostly gentle and the scenery spectacular - HA! Just don't try it in the dark unless you want to be shruskammed ;) The trains run regularly throughout the day and all stop at Eggesford (where they pick up the token) and the Tarka Trail returns to normal with cycle and footpaths continuing from there.

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm

There seems to me no reason whatsoever why this section doesn't have, at least, a continuous footpath following the river: there are sections which are walkable, there are bridges across the river and the many streams, trodden paths under the railway bridges - yep, it's all there and given the investment in the other sections of the trail then just joining the existing pieces here shouldn't require a major investment.

So why not? Let's analyse:

This section of The River Taw has some of the best salmon and trout fishing in Devon and the privately owned tracts of river here, with their attendant fishing rights, change hands for sums of money in excess of what it would cost to buy a house and are bought-up by City folk who don't even live here, people who buy local properties as their "Devon Retreats" and perhaps do spend a little money locally (when they're here) but do very little to enrich us in the price-tag free true riches of life.

Hmmmm...there's something unethical here isn't there? When you think that British Rail (as it then was) could sell the 16 miles of its disused railway line between Bideford and Meeth to The Tarka Project for £1 in 1989 and yet here on the banks of The Taw we have plenty of accessibility but limited PUBLIC access. - Aye! The vested interests of the few depriving the pleasure for the many - Call me an "Old-fashioned socialist" if you like, but come the revolution guys.....

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm

This six mile stretch takes you into Tarka Country proper as the trail, still following the course of the old railway line, crisscrosses the winding loops of the River Torridge. According to the old guy who mended my puncture at the Torrington Cycle Hire unit this is the part of the river where you are most likely to see otters. Unfortunately I haven't been so lucky as yet but the verdantly-wooded river banks and fast-flowing waters certainly conjure up mental images of otters at play.

This really is a pleasant cycle though as the trail leaves Bideford's former railway station heading up the estuary as the river narrows, leaving behind its tidal outlet. The early summer sun dappling through the wooded canopy and the pastoral river views are a delight in themselves but when there's a perfectly good pub at the end of the ride then the trip is doubly rewarded. At Great Torrington's former railway station is The Puffing Billy, which is the modern reincarnation of the station's building, serving a pretty decent pint and by all accounts good food too. The pub has a pleasant beer garden and a couple of old rail carriages and wagons for the kids to scramble around.

The Puffing Billy though was a mere bonus stopping point before continuing up the hill (after getting my puncture repaired) to the pleasantly friendly town of Great Torrington which yielded yet another little gem of a pub, The Newmarket Inn.

And just to show that life is not all pubs (tho' much of it is!) here in Great Torrington I continued my entymological education with the discovery of the Mint Leaf Beetle at its Secret Memorial Garden of which more on the page itself.

Yep, another pleasant afternoon out on the Tarka Trail :)

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Phone: 01237 423655
Website: www.tarka-country.co.uk/tarkaproject/
Other Contact: www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail.htm