"Why and What is everyone chewing?" PART 1 of 2 and other Heidelberg, Germany Local Custom Tips

I took my Scottish fiance to Germany for the first time. His first question was "are all you Germans blond?" followed by "why is everyone chewing"?
You'll notice that in Heidelberg people are on the move, and it's normal to see everyone "snacking" constantly. There are so many yummy things... I don't blame them!

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Here are some "typical" German foods. Note that Southern German cuisine differs greatly from Northern German cuisine. Many dishes in Heidelberg will also be served in Cologne & Munich, but probably not in Hamburg or Berlin.

> Bakeries - they are the German's "backbone". We love our fresh breads & pastries, and many bakeries have added a few tall tables in a corner so you can stand, have a snack & a cup of coffee ("Stehcafe" = standing cafe) Try: Mohnstrudel / Schneckennudel (poppyseed cake), Zopf (yeast dough cake), Berliner (jam filled donut), Bienenstich (cream-filled cake "bee sting"), etc.

> On that note, let's mention the "Brezel" - I don't mean those tiny, salty crispy things that Americans eat whilst watching TV. The original Brezel is big, chewy with a buttery taste and has been dipped into a special brine before baking.

> The Almighty Sausage: Germans love their MEATS. Even though I no longer eat meat, I have to admit: you haven't eaten a sausage until you've tried a German sausage! Look for "Bratwurst" or "Knackwurst" and enjoy! Most sausages are pork, but beef or turkey are widely available. The most famous is the "Nuernberger". The sausage is best eaten with some mustard, wedged between a crispy white bun or with a Brezel.

> "A grumpy German is a Sauer Kraut"... this sour cabbage dish is famous. You either love it or hate it. Truth is: it's incredibly healthy & high in vitamin C.

> The best Ham & Cake in the world: The Black Forest isn't far from Heidelberg, so in the city itself you'll find the world famous Ham and also the Cake (or Gateau). Look for "Schwarzwaelder" and enjoy!

(click on the photos!)

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Website: http://www.germanfoods.org/

More German specialities: Note that Southern German cuisine differs greatly from Northern German cuisine.

> "Knoedel" - Dumplings from Southern Germany. You'll find dumplings made from pototato (Kartoffelknoedel) and I like making dumplings from bread (Semmelknoedel).

> "Frikadellen" - meat patties / balls that are heavily seasoned with fresh herbs, fried in a pan and traditionally served with bean salad or potato salad.

> "Spanferkel" – a whole spit roast suckling pig.

> We invented Aspirin, the athletic sneaker, the MP3 File, and the Haribo GUMMIBEARS! Visit the "Baerenshop" near the Holy Ghost church for more varieties of the famous gelatine treat.

> "Vesper" or "Brotzeit" - the cold meal: you don't always need a hot meal to fill you up. Germans enjoy "bread time" and a "Vesperplatte" is served in most German restaurants. This will typically consist of breads, butter, various meats and cheeses, pickled gherkins, salads and eggs.

> The "Schnitzel" - adopted from Austria. The "Wiener Schnitzel" is the original Schnitzel, also well-known & loved in Southern Germany. This is a thin piece of veal, breaded & fried, and topped-off with lemon accompanied by French fries. Pork Schnitzel and Turkey Schnitzel are also widely available.

> "Spaetzle" - famous for the regions of Schwaben & Baden: These chunky noodles are "the star" of our cuisine. The dough is made with lots of eggs, and they are extremely filling but so tasty! Usually served with a goulash, stew and lots of gravy. Further South, the speciality dish is "Kaesespaetzle"... baked with grated cheese!

> "Beer = Bier!": German brewers adhere to the Bavarian Reinheitsgebot (purity requirement) dating from 1516. There are approx. 1300 breweries in Germany producing over 5000 brands of beer.... enough said, CHEERS!

(click on the photos!)

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Website: http://www.germanfoods.org/

Pubs all around the world have their regulars; those guys that sit at the bar every evening and order "the usual!" from the bartender. We Germans, in our ever-efficient ways however, have formalized our own way of drinking :-)

In most typical German restaurants and pubs, you'll notice one or more large inviting tables placed conveniently near the bar, usually with a standing or hanging sign on them with the word "Stammtisch". You'll also notice that even if the restaurant is completely packed with patrons, this table may well be empty.

The word "Stammtisch" is not easily translated into English but it means something like "regulars' table". Literally speaking, the Stammtisch is a table in a bar or restaurant which is reserved for the same guests at the same time every day or every week. Often, these are close friends of the management's family.

Belonging to the local Stammtisch used to carry status in German towns, where the mayor or some other local leader would often hold court in a smoke-filled pub. They were invitation-only, intensely territorial, and strictly male.
The modern Stammtisch tends to be more casual, involving beer and cigars, women as well as men, and maybe a game of cards.

There can be all kinds of Stammtisch. There are those simply for friends to drink together, or those for specific interest groups - say a "gardening discussion Stammtisch" or a "stamp collectors' Stammtisch". Even where I live (in Dubai) we have monthly "German business women's Stammtisch" where people can meet & get to know each other, all with a common interest.

While such a table may seem tempting, sitting at a Stammtisch is a privilege reserved for the pub's regulars: So don't attempt to sit here unless you're invited by "the regulars"!

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Christmas is one of those topics that make me exceptionally happy & even a bit "snobby" about being German: We do the best Christmas in the world!!! It's about family & friends, traditions & togetherness, and they are not a mere expression of the customary rampant commercialism. Don't believe me? Come & see for yourself! You simply haven't "lived" Christmas until you've been to a German Xmas market!

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The annual "Weihnachtsmarkt" takes place in the old town. This year's dates are: 28th Nov - 22nd Dec 2007.
We really enjoy the smell of freshly roasting Maroni (chestnuts), laughing children on the historic merry-go-round, the sizzling of Bratwurst (1/2 metre long sausage!) on the grills, and of course the steaming pots full of gorgeous Gluehwein (mulled wine).
NOTE: a mulled wine costs 2,40- You can either bring the cup back & receive 20 cent "Pfand" back, or keep the cup as a souvenir :-)

Daily from 11:00am to 09:00pm the following are THE places for pre-Xmas joy:

> Universitaetsplatz = University Square:
Over 80 stands selling food, crafts, live displays of glass blowing, etc. plus the century-old merry-go-round with organ music. This is the main Xmas area.

> Kornnmarkt (Madonna statue):
Live wood carving, basket weaving and jewellery demonstrations. Here you'll also find a small barn with donkeys & sheep for the kids to see & snuggle (poor freezing hooves!)

> Marktplatz, around the Herkulesbrunnen (fountain):
More wooden stalls with food, drink and entertainmetn. This is where you will find the large Heidelberg Xmas-Pyramide, spinning slowly in circles and containing figures from the city's legends & history, such as the Homo Heidelbergensis, Kurfürst Friedrich V. and Elisabeth Stuart, Liselotte of the Pfalz, Robert Bunsen, the "Student Prince" and of course wine-loving Perkeo. Here you will also find Santa's Grotto for the kids.

> CHRISTMAS ON ICE!
From 28.11.2007 - 06.01.2008 you can enjoy the open-air ice skating rink (rental available).

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Three times each year residents and visitors alike can enjoy the spectacular castle illuminations & fireworks behind the scenes of the old town Heidelberg. Just after sun set the castle-lights are turned off, the fireworks are launched from the Old Bridge. This event really is worth the wait... it's specatular!

Dates for the year 2008:

-> Saturday, 7th June 2008 - approx. 10:00pm.

-> Saturday, 12th July 2008 - approx. 10:00pm.

-> Saturday, 6th September 2008 - approx. 10:00pm.

If you want to keep yourself busy until the event starts, why not attend the concert at the Church of the Holy Spirit? This starts at 06:15pm and gets you in a romantic Heidelberg-mood... Tickets to all concerts can be purchased in advance by calling the Ticket Hotline: +49 (0)6221 - 582 0000.

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The Castle Illuminations have a romantic origin: in 1613 newly-wed Prince Elector Frederic V welcomed his new wife, English princess Elizabeth Stuart, to Heidelberg. She received a royal welcome with a splendid event: our dearest, lovey-dovey and devoted prince ordered for the castle to be illuminated by bright colors, and star balls were to be seen high above the Neckar River.

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Where's the best place to watch this display? Just follow the crowds! On the opposite shores of the Neckar river you'll get the best view.

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Website: http://www.heidelberg-marketing.de/content/index_eng.html

Did you know that Heidelberg is the headquarters of the US-Army in Germany?

Today, approx. 16,000 Americans live in Heidelberg. Around 4,000 of this number are employed by the US Army. It is estimated that 10% of Heidelberg's total population are American citizens! (I think now I understand why "pretzels" became so popular in the USA...? Haha!)

For many years, the city has always tried to promote and celebrate the "friendly neighbourhood relations" between Germans & Americans. Until about 2 years ago, Heidelberg celebrated the GERMAN-AMERICAN FRIENDSHIP FESTIVAL annually in Patrick Henry Village. PHV is an United States Army installation in the suburb of Kirchheim with a population of approx. 1,500. It opened in 1947 after World War II and was named after the politician Patrick Henry. This festival was always a surprisingly apolitical affair, usually consisting of live music, a huge fairground, heaps of German specialties, American grub and of course excessive amounts of beer.

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Some of my fondest teenage-memories took place at this summer fiesta: being "hit-on" by more young American army lads than you can shake a terrorist at, getting a lovely tan, and who could forget first realizing what "hung-over" really means; as well as eating fabulous American ice cream until you felt so sick you wanted to die. Aaaahhh, the good old days!

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Unfortunately, this festival has now been replaced with a smaller (budget friendlier?) version; probably much to the relief of annoyed residents of the Patrick Henry Village: this new "Volksfest" takes place in autumn on the "Messplatz" (near the Kirchheimer Weg in Heidelberg itself). This Festival is organized in collaboration with the American community, and in 2007 the festival will be held from the 19. - 28. of October... if you're in the area, I'm sure it's worth stopping by.

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Welcome to my part of Germany!

If you need help, information or directions in English it's best to approach younger people... they all speak English to various extents: some only have "highschool-English" and others speak it fluently. Strange as it may sound, it can be quite difficult to find a local when you need directions... there are usually so many visitors (especially in the old town) that I've witnessed many tourists accidentally asking fellow tourists for help: "Do you know where this street is? Sorry, I don't live here either!"

Nevertheless, any person anywhere in the world appreciates if you make an effort to approach them in their mothertonge (well, everyone except the Parisians...)

Here are some common expressions you might need
(I will write them phonetically)

"Shprechen see english?" = Do you speak English?.
"Ich bin tourist. Konnen see mir healfen?" = I'm a tourist. Can you help/assist me?
"Antsholdigong, haben see dee zeit? " (like "eye") = Excuse me, do you have the time?
"Antsholdigong, vo ist...?" = Where is ...?
"Vielen Dank" = Thank you (very much).
"Reichnong bitta" = The bill/check, please.
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Heidelberg is part of "Baden Wuerttemberg" in the South-West of Germany.
As in any country, different regions speak different dialects, different slang & very different accents. A good info portal on my home-state is http://www.baden-wuerttemberg.de/en/index.html

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--> Unless you speak German, you probably shouldn't even ATTEMPT to understand some of the funny dialect expressions down here in the German south. For example: there is a hotel & restaurant close to the old town bridge called "Snookeloch": Schnooke is dialect for "Muecke" which means "Mosquito / Gnat". Loch is "hole"; so it's the "Gnat's Hole Hotel"... don't ask... just click on the picture to see it... hahaha! :-)

--> The "motto" of Baden Wuerttemberg is: "Mir koenne alles, bloss koi Hochdeutsch." (We can do anything, but we can't speak "high" German)

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Website: http://dict.leo.org/