"At the centre of the Kingdom" Riyadh by mikey_e

Similar to the majority of people who come to Saudi Arabia, I came to this country as part of my work. In fact, I made the decision almost 6 months before moving here. Riyadh is by no means a tourist destination. Indeed, the entire nation of Saudi Arabia has few tourists who visit it for reasons other than pilgrimage. That, I dare say in one of the draws of coming here. Although the country does not have a well-developed and well-publicized tourist industry or infrastructure, it is filled with historical sites that are of interest to Muslims and non-Muslims alike. Unfortunately, these sites are not in Riyadh, and are generally far from it. The capital city, established as the seat of the As-Saud government during the second Saudi State in the 19th century, was not only an unimportant centre up until its selection as the seat of government, but it has also developed rapidly since the first oil boom, leading to an ugly and poorly-planned metropolis.

A quiet morning on King Fahd Road

Despite all of the restrictions in place in Saudi society, one of the first things that people will complain about in Riyadh is the traffic. Saudi Arabia is a middle-income country and, as in many other countries that have experienced rapid development, there is a huge problem with urban planning and sustainable development. Riyadh is a sprawling city, supposedly with a surface area equal to that of Lebanon. There are large gaps between developments and absolutely no public transit apart from privately organized minibuses. The result is a city with huge highways and an extraordinary number of car owners. Drivers come from all over the world, with little concern with their ability to drive safely on the part of the local authorities. The result is a traffic mess that can make actually seeing the city a nightmare. It also leads to high levels of pollution (don't even think about suggesting hybrid cars in an OPEC nation) that, combined with the dust and sand, create a dangerous place for those with breathing problems.

Garden at the King Abdul Aziz Historical Centre

Despite the traffic, the congestion and the pollution, there are parts of Riyadh that can be quite interesting and endearing. The mass of traffic arteries inevitably leads to new residents getting lost, and that can cause a bit of surprise on the part of people who suddenly discover the centre and its large government buildings, some of which try to incorporate traditional Arab or even Najdi architecture into modern designs. At night, the popular drags along Makkah Mukarrima, lit up with tea lights and colourful displays, look almost magical. The Saudi government is also conscious of the fact that its capital city should have some areas that accommodate more than just official business. The centre now has a few institutions that cater to putting a softer face on the Kingdom and educating visitors of its unique history and culture. These areas are few and far between, but once they have been found, they give the guests an entirely different perspective on the country colloquially known as simply "the Kingdom".