Taxi!
After being quoted 800 dirhams for a taxi to Marrakech from Agadir, we decided to explore other possibilities. Someone suggested CTM bus as being reliable, air-conditioned and cheap so, unable to find a petit taxi to take us to the gare routiere, we began the hike toward the vague circle scrawled on our map in biro. An hours walk in the blistering sun later we found the CTM office and booked two one-way tickets to Marrakech in French for 80 dirhams a piece.
The bus left in an hour which left time for two cappuccinos each in the Pit-Stop cafe next door and time for me to fall over in the hole-in-the-floor toilets (very slippy - eeugh!!!).
On our arrival in Marrakech we jumped into an unlicensed, over-priced taxi who's driver said he knew a good hotel near Djemma El-Fna and promised he wasn't a murderer. He took us to the Tazi. After a brief panic when I discovered I'd lost my purse (left it on back seat of non-murdering taxi drivers car - who needs pickpockets!) we decided not to stay in the Tazi but to set out to find our own little gem. I know the Tazi enjoys quite a good reputation but when we were shown a room prior to checking in it reminded me of films set in The Bronx.... Besides, I had my heart set on a glamorous little Riad.
As we walked up towards the famous square, we were asked by several men if we would like some "chocolat". I'm quite fond of the odd bar of Cadburys but I've never been offered it in such quantities before. I was quite disappointed when I learnt that they were actually offering us cannabis. We politely declined. One man however asked if he could get us something "special" so I told him we were looking for a place to stay. He called over his friend who introduced himself as Ahmed.
Ahmed was very thorough in detailing exactly what we were looking for. I told him we wanted a riad to stay in - somewhere beautiful. He nodded and shot off. Guessing he wanted us to follow him we trotted behind trying desperately to keep up with him. He dodged oncoming pedestrian traffic with such ease that it made Jonathan & I feel like a pair of clumsy elephants negotiating the crowd. Ahmed ducked down a narrow, dark alley, glancing backwards to check we were still following. A look passed between Jonathan & I and we silently agreed that if anyone tried anything funny we could take 'em!!!
Hurrying through an unlit labyrinth, we passed many discreet open doorways which led to beautiful courtyards. I peered wistfully at them as Ahmed disappeared round yet another corner. Finally we arrived at Riad Hamza. After being shown a couple of rooms I fell completely in love with Chambre 9 - The Royal Suite - complete with stained-glass shutters opening onto the courtyard and four-poster bed draped in gold chiffon. I didn't care how much they told us it would cost - I was staying! I was doubly delighted when we were quoted 500 dirham a night with breakfast on the terrace - £30!!! We slipped Ahmed 100 dirham and dumped our bags.