Hillside haven and other Oaxaca de Juárez, Mexico Hotel/Accommodation Reviews

Looking for a place to really relax and enjoy our stay in Oaxaca, Casa Machaya's promise of self-contained and secluded accommodation on a hillside on the outskirts of the city sounded just the thing. From the moment we entered Arlene and Alvin Starkman's lovely home we knew we had made a good choice - the big bed-sitting room, lovely open kitchen/living room and en suite bathroom, all decorated in colourful Mexican style, plus a private terrace was just what we were looking for. A welcoming drink, snack and chat with Arlene got us off to a good start. The kitchen was fitted with everything we needed to to prepare breakfast from the provisions supplied - eggs, fruit, daily fresh breads, coffee, tea, etc - and the view across the valley was gorgeous. Satellite television, a library of DVDs, internet access, a collection of books and magazines along with more domestic essentials such as laundry facilities, plentiful hot water in the bathroom and bottled water for drinking added to the home-style comforts, as did the presence of Tito, the Starkman's friendly boxer.

The house is quite a way out of the centre - a good 45 minute's walk, 10 minutes by taxi - but one journey a day into the city is included in the tariff and a taxi back should cost no more than 50 pesos (be sure to establish the coast before begining the ride - and remember to take the map provided to show the route with you). Buses and taxis into town can be accessed at the bottom of the hill. I have to say our initial concerns over access (a lost taxi driver) were soon overcome by the charms of the location.

Alvin was away whilst we were there, so we missed out on taking one of his informed and expert tours but the alternative arrangements made with Arlene's help proved more than satisfactory and we had a such a good time on the first day we spent with driver/guide, Eric Ramirez, we booked his services for the rest of our stay.

Unique Qualities: Built on several levels on the side of a very (very!) steep hill, with the B&B apartment at the lowest level accessed by two external staircases (though access through the house is possible for anyone who might find the outer stairs a problem), Casa Machaya is very much part of a local community. Here the sounds of roosters, dogs, goats, even the odd burro combine with children playing and family living rather than honking horns and city crowds. The air is decidedly cooler and fresher too - something to remember as you get ready for a day's sightseeing - it will almost certainly be hotter down in the centre.

The hillside setting, with splendid views of the surrounding mountains and the city below, and quiet comforts of Casa Machaya are a great combination - one we certainly would like to take advantage of if ever we return to Oaxaca and, with the promise of some really off-the-beaten-track experiences with Alvin as our guide, a cooking lesson in Arlene's beautiful Mexican kitchen (I must master the intricacies of at least one of Oaxaca's famed moles), the restaurants we didn't have time to try and all that the region has to offer in history, culture, colour and its own very special spirit of place, I know we're bound to return.

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Theme: Bed and Breakfast
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$40-80  » Currency Converter
Address: Sierra Nevada 164, Colonia Loma Linda, Oaxaca 68024, Mexico
Directions: Colonia Loma Linda is on the north side of the city. It takes about 45 minutes to walk into the centre, 10 minutes by taxi.
Website: www.oaxacadream.com

It's a few years now since we stayed at the Fiesta Hotel in Oaxaca - and, by all accounts, things have changed - sadly, not for the better. Whilst the hotel is still as comfortable and pleasant ( if rather blandly American in style - with all that means in fairly characterless comfort) as it was when we were there, what was then a small downside ( a location on the outskirts of the city, compensated for by a regular free hotel shuttle bus, attractive gardens and a swimming pool, great for a cooling dip at the end of a hot day's sight-seeing) has become a big one - and enough to make me suggest you look elsewhere for a hotel.

The Fiesta has become surrounded by the ugly side of commercial Oaxaca - the road outside has become very busy, with a shopping mall, KFC, Sams Club, even MacDonalds right on the doorstep. This is not what you'll have come to Oaxaca for, so my suggestion is, look elsewhere.


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Theme: Hotel
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$80-120  » Currency Converter
Address: Avenida Universidad 140 Ex Hacienda De Candiani Oaxaca, Oaxaca Mexico, C.P. 68130