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"Uzbekistan - the c ..." a Uzbekistan Travel Page by TheWanderingCamel
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TheWanderingCamel    
So seize the day. Hold holiday. Be unwearied, unceasing, alive!........... (from the Harper's Song, ancient Egypt)


Real Name: TheWanderingCamel
Lives In: Washington, US
Member Since: Mar 03, 2005
VT Rank: 12

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Page Views: 3,809            Last Visit to Uzbekistan: June, 2005      

Uzbekistan - the crossroads of time

by TheWanderingCamel - last update: Mar 29, 2006

The very heart of Central Asia

Timeless land
To be awed by the fabled architecture of Samarkand and Bukhara, the great cities of the ancient Silk Route, was expected.
To be fascinated by the colour and life of the bazaars was too.
Carpets of every kind, of course.
If the extent of the fertile areas was greater than anticipated, the sweep of the steppe and the harshness of the desert came as no real surprise.
That the sum of all these, combined with pleasant, tree-filled city streets and flower-adorned country roads,
good food,
stunningly beautiful traditional embroideries and silks,
unbelievably cheap opera tickets and
-above all -
the warmth and good humour of the people we met along the way,
would make every day a delight was everything we could have wished for, and more.

Truly a wondrous place.



Tashkent - the old and the new (Photo: J McG))

The fabled road

The Silk Road, Samarkand and Bokhara,Tashkent and Khiva- names to conjure up visions of camel trains slowly moving away into the hazy distance, buzzing bazaars and cavernous caravanserais, soaring minarets and bulbous blue domes. All that is in the long-lost past but still the names cast a spell over those who hear them.

Samarkand and Bukhara are top of anyone's list as they plan a visit to Uzbekistan. Rightly so - they are wonderful , wonderful places. But there are other wonderful places too.

Tashkent is far more attractive than any guide book would lead you to believe, Khiva's erstwhile museum-like air is changing as more people return to live within the walls and the quiet laneways and the small town of Shakhrisabz, in the foothills of the Pamir, was lovely.

The Registan in Samarkand - three glorious medressas, gleaming gold in the light of the setting sun is an unforgettable sight. The enormous ribbed blue dome over Timur's mausoleum. The tranquil peace of the Great Mosque's courtyard. A 14th century observatory - there are enough marvels in Samarkand to make the long haul there worthwhile. Bukhara's trading domes and lovely central square with its pool and ancient mulberry trees are a delight .

But these are modern cities too -with high rise hotels and blocks of flats, commercial and government buildings, traffic and supermarkets.
Uzbekistan is not only about history, the country is a fascinating mix of the old and the new, the traditional and the modern.

Much more than just great monuments

Whilst Uzbekistan is no longer part of the Soviet Union, the legacy of those days is authoritarian rule, heavy-handed bureaucracy and appalling pollution and ecological problems, little of which really impacts on the visitor. Instead you are charmed by the warmth of the people you meet, their easy acceptance of you in their midst. Lots of chat and lots of laughs, sharing food and photos, smiles and stories (even if you don't share a word of a common language) more than make up for the occasional officious policeman.
There is a lovely serenity about so much of Uzbekistan that enchants the visitor, . It was school holiday time whilst we were there and there were children and families out to enjoy themselves everywhere.
Hassle from hawkers and traders was minimal - and good-humoured, beggars were very few and far between, the beer was well-chilled and the salads fresh (just what we needed in the 38 degree heat), our guides were good company and well-informed, and Boris (our driver) was brilliant and the nicest man. Comfortable, clean hotels with cool verandahs, shady chaikanas (tea-houses) everywhere, delicious fruit (cherries and white apricots and wild strawberries growing along the pathways in Taskent), unbelievably cheap seats at the opera all came together in an unforgettable trip, one that I certainly intend to repeat.

leyle
Kostya Tszyu fans -Tashkent (Photo: J McG)

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TheWanderingCamel's Uzbekistan Travel Tips

OverviewThings to Do
Tips: 17 - Photos: 17
 
RestaurantsHotels & Accommodations
 
NightlifeOff The Beaten Path
Tips: 4 - Photos: 4
 
Tourist TrapsWarnings Or Dangers
Tips: 2 - Photos: 2
 
TransportationLocal Customs
Tips: 19 - Photos: 19
 
Packing ListsShopping
Tips: 14 - Photos: 14
 
Sports TravelGeneral Tips
Tips: 7 - Photos: 7

Comments for TheWanderingCamel about Uzbekistan
sachara Mon Jun 23, 2008 19:17 UTC
 Leyle, very informative to read your interesting tips ! It's 3 weeks now before we will enter Uzbekistan coming from Turkmenistan.
JohnniOmani Thu Nov 1, 2007 02:35 UTC
 Leyle, Great page and it is high on my list ;) cheers jz
toonsarah Sun Jul 1, 2007 14:31 UTC
 We leave for Uzbekistan on Friday! I'm really looking forward to it, and your wonderful pages increase my sense of anticipation, especially your atmospheric descriptions of the small details of life here. Thank you for sharing your insights
Elisabcn Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:53 UTC
 Thanks for the tips about Shakhrisyabz, they're very useful. I did'nt have any idea about how to get it and nobody seemed to know even the city!
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