"Coming home to Brac" Top 5 Page for this destination Otok Brac by TheWanderingCamel
Otok Brac Travel Guide: 67 reviews and 244 photos
MrL's grandfather died long before he was born so they were never able to talk about the faraway island where the older man was born, grew up and left as a young man to seek his fortune on the goldfields of Western Australia. He never returned to his birthplace and it was to be 70 years after he died before his grandson was to make the journey, to sit in the garden where his grandfather had played as a boy, to visit the church where he was baptised, to swim in the clear waters of the beach near the family home, to meet the remaining few cousins who still live on the island. It really was a homecoming that saw time and distance melt away.
That was in 2006. We returned in 2007 and again in 2008, 2009 and 2011. With a return already booked for September 2012 this page about Brac, a beautiful island just of the Dalmatian coast near Split, will be an ongoing thing, with new discoveries and experiences to add from each visit. I guess by now I've earned the right to say "I visit here often".
Third largest of all Croatia's islands, lying parallel to (and at no point more than 13 km from) the mainland, much of Brac is rocky, even quite mountainous - Vidova Gora, the mountain overlooking Bol, is the highest point of all the Adriatic islands - a harsh, stony landscape covered in low bushy scrub. The sheltered bays and inlets of the north-western side of the island are dotted with picture-book villages and towns, whilst the cliffs of the southern coast are generally steeper and less protected and therefore far less inhabited although one town there, Bol, the island's oldest settlement, is undoubtedly the island's main tourist destination.
Bol, Grandfather's birthplace, is where we stay. From there we range all over the island in our hire car. We explore mountain villages and pretty little harbours, visit ancient churches, a monastery here, a museum there, and walk along even more ancient walkways over the stony hills.
Long hours are spent over home-produced wine and home-cooked meals with elderly cousins and newer friends, not much common language but lots of laughs and goodwill.
Harbourside restaurants, country konobas, at least one daily icecream (so many flavours, so little time) - early morning swims, moonlit evenings out on the terrace - the days drift by and all too soon it's time to pack up and make our way to the ferry, on to the plane and home. We'll be back ...
It was June when we made our most recent visit to Brac. Staying in Bol as always, returning once more to a tiny old stone house in the heart of the village, a stone's roll down the hill from the harbourside. One room up and one room down, with a vine-hung terrace that was bigger than either and a view of the village and of Hvar across the channel, it is just perfect.
Quietly busy, the first of the summer visitors had begun arriving. Not too hot but warm enough for breakfast out on the terrace of our little house. Day-time temperatures were ideal for long walks and short swims, walking around to the town's famed beach , the white pebbled curve of Zlatni Rat and taking the shuttle launch back to town when we were done, for a shower and a foray to some yet-to-be-explored village or bay. Balmy evenings found us in dining al fresco one of the local konobas or back on the terrace, even cooking (on a two ring holiday cottage stove) and serving dinner one evening to friends and family who had entertained us so often and so generously in years past.
Sumartin, at the very eastern end of Brac, is only 30 minutes by ferry from Makarska on the mainland. 15th century... more travel advice
Sumartin and Selca lie just a few kilometres apart but seperated by a high hill, St Nicholas's Mount, at the eastern end... more travel advice
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