"Sunny days in Split" Top 5 Page for this destination Split by TheWanderingCamel

Split Travel Guide: 847 reviews and 2,378 photos

Rome and the mediaeval world together

They say the past is a different country - and how true that is of Croatia and its historic city of Split. More than 30 years seperated my first visit and the next one - 30 years that saw the death of a iron-fisted dictator followed by the bitter and often bloody breakup of Yugoslavia, the country he held together by the force of his will and belief in centralized nationalism. I have no photos of that first visit but the image of an extraordinary city where mediaeval buildings were built right into the walls of a Roman emperor's palace were indelibly printed on my mind's eye. Yugoslavia (as it was then) had only recently embraced the idea of opening its doors to tourists from the west, and we found Split to be uncrowded and refreshingly (and, it must be said, at times frustratingly) unsophisticated. I loved it.

Fast forward to 2006 - the years of both Communism and war both in the past. Croatia's the word on everyone's lips as THE place to go, and Split, both in its own right and as the gateway to some of Dalmatia's favourite holiday islands, is high on the tourist's list of places to see. We were heading for Brac, but those old memories were still there - ticking away, and I knew we had to do more than simply pass through the city on our way from the airport to the ferry port.

Can you go back?

Quite simply, yes. I did and I fell in love with Split all over again.

Today's Split is a real mix of the ancient, the mellow aged and vibrant youth all blended together with a good dash of tradition and what's new thrown in for good measure. Add brilliant sunshine, a glittering sea, the scent of pine trees, hazy blue islands on the horizon and you have a city of of narrow streets made for exploring, squares made for cafe-sitting and people-watching, historic monuments and funky shops, a city that deserves so much more than a day trip from a seaside hotel or a quick stop en route to a ferry.

A couple of days in 2006 left us wanting to return, a few more in 2007 reinforced that thought, October 2008, JJune 2009 - not sure just which month it will be in 2010 but one thing's sure - we'll be back. This has become a habit!


  • Last visit to Split: May 2011
  • Intro Updated May 9, 2016
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Reviews (35)

Comments (18)

  • angiebabe's Profile Photo
    Apr 5, 2013 at 2:50 PM

    I drove 4 friends down from France to Croatia as far south as Split and we really enjoyed our visit - very impressed with the roman remains there such as Diocletians palace and the old buildings above it such as in your lovely photos - we met lovely people during our one night there so its nice to see your page and be reminded thanks as mine is very lacking...too much travelling to keep up!

  • Jim_Eliason's Profile Photo
    Apr 5, 2013 at 1:37 PM

    Great page

  • Maryimelda's Profile Photo
    Apr 9, 2010 at 5:53 AM

    leyle, I have had the best time travelling through Split with you. Croatia is on our next itinerary in 2011. Got called away today but had to come back online to thank you.

  • BruceDunning's Profile Photo
    Feb 10, 2010 at 12:05 PM

    OUr plan is to spend time in Klis and Solin. Thanks for the tips-they are scarce for this area.

  • canuck68's Profile Photo
    Aug 20, 2009 at 8:57 PM

    I have been hearing much about Split lately as a tourist destination. Your photos and tips are great. Thanks, Diane

  • starship's Profile Photo
    Jul 13, 2009 at 6:41 PM

    Another fantastic page! I was quite enamored with what I have seen in Croatia, and it seems you are too! If I am lucky, I might be visiting Split for 1 day next summer!

  • toonsarah's Profile Photo
    Apr 14, 2009 at 6:13 AM

    Wonderful page Leyle! How I regret that unlike you we made the mistake of simply passing through Split - must return to explore properly. The market, cathedral, Peristil - all sound just what we would love. Great Off Path and accommodation tips too :-)

  • hunterV's Profile Photo
    Dec 20, 2008 at 3:18 AM

    Thanks for your wonderful description, as always! ~ Take care! ~

  • Kuznetsov_Sergey's Profile Photo
    Jul 16, 2008 at 9:04 AM

    Croatia and Split are in my wish list still. Thanks Leile for your help to make up my mind. Excellent page with a lot of useful info and successful shots.

  • VeronicaG's Profile Photo
    Jun 3, 2008 at 10:46 AM

    Split's main attraction has to be the ancient ruins which you've so beautifully pictured! I imagine the narrow streets would be a delight to explore, as well. Enjoyed your tips, Leyle...

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