Thatched roofs and walls of mud or reeds - that's where you're likely to find youself staying when you're not actually out in the desert on your Akakus journey. We stayed in two of the camps owned by our Libyan agent - Abubaker Karnafoda of
Al Faw Travel - and made stops at two others, the big camp owned by Camping Africa at Tekerkiba, and the even bigger camp owned by Fezzan Tours at Sebah.
The camps we stayed in, at Tiwiwa (photo 1) - near the Ubari Lakes, and at Al Awein (photo 3))- the entrance to the Jebel Akakus, had similar mud-walled huts that were spotlessly clean and simply furnished (photo 4) with mats on the floor, beds and small cupboards. They were lit by electricity and the Al Aweinat hut was airconditioned, though this certainly wasn't necessary in March. Power in the hut meant we were able to charge our camera batteries in Al Aweinat - I'm not sure about that facility in Tiwiwa. Bathroom facilities were fairly basic but there were western-style loos and hot water showers in cubicles and openair basins for teeth-cleaning, shaving, etc.
Both camps served a set meal at dinner - soup, coucous, chicken, salad and fruit. Breakfasts were simple affairs of yoghurt, bread, cream cheese and spreads, and fruit. The dining room at Al Aweinat is a large , open-sided thatched room, Tiwiwa's a less-picturesque blocky concrete building. Al aweinat also has a large open thatched-roof "gazebo" with chairs and tables where people gather.
As well as the permanent huts, both camps have a large area where tents can be pitched. The grounds are clean and well-swept, if rather bare - the Wahat Fezzan and Camping Africa sites were both set among quite lush gardens with lots of trees. Where you stay will, of course, depend to a large extent on which agent you book with, particularly if you're on a tour, and as we would certainly use Al Faw Travel again, we would stay at Abubakr's camps, and be happy to do so.
Unique Qualities: The staff at both Al Faw's camps were excellent - very helpful and most obliging. Al Aweinat is the company's main camp, and an office is maintained there as well as one in Tripoli. Abubakr himself is a lovely man, very knowledgeable and well organized. He has been involved with Western oil companies in Libya for years, organizing camps, catering, vehicles, etc and is well-known and liked throughout the industry.
Tiwiwa, set at the base of the dunes of the Ubari Sand sea, is fairly new and, as such, is still a little raw around the edges, whereas Al Aweinat is long-established and justly popular. It was quietly busy the first night we stayed there, though when the gbili drove us back there from the desert a night earlier than intended, it was deserted. People trickled in through the evening and by the time we woke next day it was full to its absolute capacity
Be sure to take a look at the charming thatched mosque at Al Aweinat.(photo 5)
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Directions: Tiwiwa is about 160km from Sebah, ideally placed to visit the Ubari Lakes. The camp can be seen from the road, on the left hand side coming from Sebah.
At Al Aweinat, Camp Al Faw is the first camp you see as you come into the town from Sebah.
Website: http://www.alfawtravel.com/Our%20Camping's.html
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on Mar 20, 2007
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