QUARTIER DENFERT ROCHEREAU and other Paris, France Off The Beaten Path Tips

This is my neighborhood. I have lived here off and off for almost two years. I love it. It is named after General Pierre Denfert-Rochereau of the 19th century, who, during the Franco-Prussian war, led the resistance of Belfort against the seige. Prior to the present name, it was, coincidentally, called Place d'Enfer. The place is easily recognizable by the giant Lion of Belfort in the center, a copy of the one in Belfort.

A friend, who has lived in this quartier for many years, told me that it was at one time a working class neighborhood, but now it is being elevated and the rent for a five bedroom apartment in a Hausemann style building goes for about $4000 a month and that's without a doorman.

Though it seems out of the way, it really is not. It is directly out Blvd St. Michele past Jardin du Luxembourg and Porte Royal. You can actually walk there from Notre Dame. I have done it many times. But if you don't feel like walking, take the RER B, or subway lines 4 and 6. You can also get bus #38 or #68. It would be a very lovely place to stay for your time in Paris. It is away from the hordes of tourists in an actual neighborhood. You will be able to mingle peacefully among the Parisians. It is quiet at night and lively during the day. There is a wonderful street called Rue Daguerre with fromageries, wine caves, boucheries, as well as quite a few brasseries, cafés and restaurants. And then of course there is MacDonalds.

When you see the Lion you will know you are there

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UPDATE 2/2/08: CLOSED The Catacombs is closed for now due to repairs. It should be opening in the spring.

In the Quartier Denfert Rochereau, you will find the Catacombs of Paris. It is a place that, though I pass everyday, I don't ever plan to enter. It does not interest me at all because I am claustrophobic. But if you are not, this is probably a really interesting place. There is almost always a line to get in.

To get there, when you come up out of the metro (see photo) you will be directly across the street from the Catacombs. If you don't see the trailer where crepes are sold you have come up out of the subway in the next block so back track. You will probably see a line outside anyway so it should not be hard to find.

Before you go down, it would be a very good idea to watch the youtube video that I have linked below. I don't know iif it is for real or not, but it's very scary. If you don't want to scare yourself before you go, skip the youtube and read the National Geographic article.

http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/travel/paris.html

Another youtube video on the catacombs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjEO719BaLM&mode=related&search=

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Website: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNkNJU5Uj7s

Montparnasse Cemetery is very near to Place Denfert Rochereau and the Catacombs so you could combine this trip with the Catacombs, Rue Daguerre, and the park at Denfert Rochereau. Montparnasse Cemetery has many famous people buried in it, including Serge Gainsbourg and Jean Seaberg.

If you have any Parisian roots and you are interested in genealogy, you may find some ancestors buried here also.

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Website: http://www.paris-eiffel-tower-news.com/paris-stories/paris-story-montparnasse-cemetery.htm

Having survived the ghostly walk through the catacombs, you will exit at rue Rémy Dumoncel which is off of avenue du Général Leclerc not far from Alesia. Having survived the ghostly tour, you will probably need to rest your bones in the lovely little park across the street from the entrance next to the Metro stop. On a warm spring day it is a lovely place to sit and take in the sun while eating lunch or you can take a little snooze.

It is located right next to the Metro Denfert Rochereau near the white crepe stand.

You might want to walk over to Rue Daguerre after you have rested.

WARNING: Don't sit in the park behind the entrance to the catacombs. The last time I passed it there were some very shady looking charcaters hanging out in there.

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While I would not tell you to go out of your way to see Rue Daguerre, I would say that if you want a break from the touristy areas and would like to see a real French neighborhood that is not too far out of the way then this would be a good place to go. This is a wonderful street which, for one block, is a pedestrian street. Here is where you will find the "true" Parisians, as I have heard some say. They go about their daily lives shopping at the fromagerie, or the several boucheries. On this street you will also find, a poissonerie, a couple of boulangeries and patisseries, several vegetable and fruit markets, two wine caves, as well as restaurants, and various other shops. You can stop in at my favorite neighborhood café, Café Daguerre, for a glass of wine, an express, or even a meal. They actually serve very good food at Café Daguerre.

Though there are a number of hotels in the area, you don't find very many tourists walking about, probably because they have headed in to the tourist areas. So you will get a real taste of normal life for the middle class Parisian.

METRO: Denfert Rochereau
BUS: 38 and 68
RER B: Denfert Rochereau

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My six months in Paris were spent living in the 14th arrondissement. My apartment was right at Place Denfer Rochereau which is unfortunately where most of the demonstrations started. It is a fabulous location as far as transportation is concerned because, in addition to several bus lines, there are the Metro lines 5 and 6 and the RER B. It is also an easy walk to Montparnasse, Saint-Germaine de Pres, Boulevard Saint Michelle, Jardin du Luxembourg, and many other locations.

On the map it looks like it is pretty far from the center. It isn't. I often walked from here to le Marais, les Halles, the Eiffel Tower, and many other places. Just get yourself a good pair of walking shoes or take public transportation.

There are fewer tourists here so you will experience more of a flavor of normal Paris life.

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Phone: 01.53.90.67.14
Website: http://www.mairie14.paris.fr/mairie14/jsp/site/Portal.jsp

Located in the 6th Arrondissement, everyone can enjoy the Jardin du Luxembourg. There are places to sit and read, to stretch out in the sun, a playground for the children, a place to play boules, and lots of paths to walk. It is one of the most peaceful places to spend a quiet sunny afternoon. It is well worth the visit.

The address is boulevard Saint-Michel, 75006.

If you take the Metro, get off at the Odéon stop. If you go by the RER B, descend at the Luxembourg stop.

It is opened everyday all year. In the summer the hours are from 7 in the morning to one hour before the sunset and in the winter it opens at 8 a.m.

There is no entrance fee.

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Website: http://www.v1.paris.fr/EN/Visiting/gardens/jardin_luxembourg.asp

Located in the 13th Arrondisement, la Buttes aux Cailles is a hilltop village within Paris. It isn't crowded with tourists and tacky shops as is Montmartre and still maintains that local feeling where only Parisians live, eat, and play. In fact I had lunch in a restaurant there and the man sitting next to me was very surprised that I was there. He said that very few tourists come into that area.

It gives the feeling that you are not in Paris.

Very close to Place d'Italie.

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