"My City" a Johannesburg Travel Page by sebblit7

The Greater Johannesburg Metropolitan Council encompasses many suburbs ranging from ultra rich to dirt poor. The sad thing about foreign media coverage of Apartheid and modern day South Africa, is that the whole world still thinks that two opposing groups of people live here, one group black the other group white. People of many religions and ethnic groups live here, kind of side by side, but the divide between rich and poor ensures that very few of the so called white people live in previously so called black areas. While in richer neighbourhoods you'll find the new black elite.

Transformation has been pretty slow in the whole country and it's disappointing to see massive displays of wealth by both white and black elite while the remainder of the country suffers in the poverty of a second economy.

Although it's indisputable that crime is a very serious concern, one should bear in mind that most people are actually pretty friendly. Having said that there is still a huge amount of hidden racism and xenophobia, so if you're a Nigerian visiting Joburg you're more likely to get a friendly response from a white South African than from a black one (but once again because of stigma he may very well ask you where he can score a gram of coke), conversely if you're Muslim (thanks to Bush combined with Bin Laden combined with imbecilic media coverage) or a less educated African you may feel that white people are negative towards you.

Also bear in mind that most of the 'white' people living here are very much divided amongst themselves, Jewish, Catholic, Protestant, English, Portuguese, Italian, German, Greek, etc. and if you're coming here for the first time to see relatives you'll very quickly find that they live in a cocoon environment where they have friends from the same group, and go to places that cater for that same group. Most of these people will never have even been to Soweto or Alex, or even the Joburg CBD for the last ten years.

Similarly there are divisions between the black people, historical wars are still remembered between the various ethnic groups that make up the country and it's not uncommon for people of one group to talk badly of another when they think they don't understand the language.

I know this is a mass generalisation, there are many people who do not fit into this picture, but I see it everyday and wouldn't for one minute want to lie to toursists that this is a happy Rainbow Nation, it's still truly divided although more socially than politically. The massive amounts of poverty seen since the first democratic elections in 1994 shows holes in the capitalist democratic model our country tries to follow as it continues to try to please the interests of the rich countries in the 1st world.

Bear in mind that this divided society lived in isolation from the world and from themselves for generations. Since '94 most South Africans believe this country is the be all and end all, even though they may have never even left the country or visited other cities in this country. Be prepared for lots of bragging about how this is the most beautiful and that is the best, etc. and then just agree with them, it makes them feel special.

My advice to tourists is that they try not to barter people selling souvenirs down too much because if they've had a bad day they'll practically give you a well crafted item for less than it's worth. If they say R100 for something, offer them R80 and you'll both go away feeling better for it. These people are not Arabs if you want to haggle go to the Middle East, if you're from the Middle East - then the When in Rome principle applies. On the other hand watch out for the prices charged by the large multinational hotel groups and car hire places, it may match the same prices you would pay in your home country, but are you really getting the same service you would expect from a 5 star establishment back home?

In this country when things go wrong, you'll just get a lot of pathetic smiles and apologies, but don't dare to try to ask for a discount or free meal because of their screw up, in this country a tourist is loaded and has an unlimited supply of foreign currency.

If you're a tourist coming in a tour group, you'll be bussed around in 5 star luxury and will be afforded glimpses of SA life and history. Most of it is glossed over and you'll probably quickly recognise that tourism is big business. If you want to break out of the pack take a taxi to Melville and hang out in the bars there, you'll find a pretty nice reality, not too rich, but not poor and unsafe.

When you visit the townships or other curio markets, be aware that many of the people who sell souvenirs are not actually from South Africa, many of them are refugees seeking asylum from other African countries. These people are treated horrendously by the South African Police and by local black South Africans who mistrust them believeing that they come to steal jobs (we have an unemployment rate of 40%), commit crime and sell drugs. The government doesn't make it any easier for them as they spend most of their time renewing their papers which expire every few weeks. These foreign sellers may tell you that their goods are from this country or that country, but actually most of the stuff is made here.

If you are a black visitor to South Africa, always carry your passport with your visa stamped in. Black policemen often walk up to other black people who they suspect of being illegal and speak to them in a local language like Xhosa or Zulu, when they can't respond in a local language they get hauled off to prison where it's common knowledge that a R300 to R1000 bribe will get you off (if you are illegal) if you aren't illegal and can eventually get someone to bring your passport from the hotel room you'll have spent a few miserable hours at some ***ty police station where corrupt cops are so pathetically underpaid you go away feeling sorry for them.

If you need a cellphone charger, or a packet of biltong, or a cheap plastic umbrella, or sunglasses, or newspapers, or whatever, you can buy it all at the traffic lights (Called Robots by South Africans)

If someone walks up to your window while stopped at a traffic light with a flyer advertising anything from the sale of a new townhouse to motor vehicle repair, just take the flyer and dump it on the passenger seat, it's FREE, the guy doesn't want money (although he may ask for a smoke - I don't ever give), don't be scared and you're keeping the guy employed and hopefully not committing crime (at least while he's handing out flyers - but I expect his income from this may be so low that he resorts to crime in the evening - so hey, you may just be staring a killer right in the face - but just take the goddam flyer okay it's not going to bite... besides when you get to the next traffic light there'll probably be a guy with a plastic bag willing to take your rubbish (flyers/cigarette butts/empty cans/etc) for a tip. Give him all the *** you can, plus a few coins and off you go.

You may get guys who just come up and wash your front window, after that they expect a tip, I never give.

You'll also get beggars asking for money or cigarettes, some of them carry little cardboard signs with 'god bless' and whatnot, I never give, you'll get mothers sitting by the roadside while their sweet little kids beg with their sorry little eyes, I never give. The idea is to get these people off the streets and into jobs, not to support their habits.

Just to confuse things you'll also get guys selling pamphlets that contain jokes, it's a cute idea, just give them a few Rand and they'll give you the pamphlet.

Geez after all that maybe you should just stay in the tourist bus.

If you're in the tourism industry, stop ripping off OUR tourists. Just because they bring in Foreign currency doesn't mean they're stinking rich, some of these people save up for the whole year for a 5 working day holiday.

Secondly "Why should the manager have to sort everything out?" Teach your employees about customer service and the manager won't need to be called all the time.

Thirdly pay your staff better, if you're going to charge foreigners at a foreign rate then pay your staff at a rate that is compatible, you'll be amazed at the difference in service. Do you think staff at 1st world hotels are paid peanuts?
No of course not that's why they provide such excellent service and they don't need to rely on tips.

For detailed info on what to do (and see) when you arrive at Johannesburg International have a look at "Picture Guide Joburg international Arrivals" in the Travelogue down below, it's a basic guide to the arrivals halls and what you can expect to see.