"Beograd - White City on the Danube" a Belgrade Travel Page by xeberus

Because of it’s strategic location, Belgrade’s rich history has sadly been bulldozed by war after war. The original fortress was founded by Romans near a Celtic settlement. Under the Ottomans it was a Turkish trade center on empire’s fringe (Zemun, a stroll from downtown, was in the Austrian Empire) with many mosques. Sadly, that city has been nearly erased. Few buildings in the city date back more than 150 years. One mosque remains, the others destroyed out of contempt for the conquerors. The desire to erase the history of "the enemy" continues. In 2004 thugs burned the 17th century Bajrakli Mosque in retribution for horrific desecration of Serbian churches in Kosovo. The mosque is under restoration.

Nevertheless, 500 years of Turkish dominance cannot be erased. It is most evident in the cuisine and language ('æevap', grilled meat, is a Serbian form of Turkish "kebab'). Serbian folklore is firmly centered on the Turkish years. It’s filled with tales, based on fact but distorted and modified into a national mythology, which played a key roll in events since the demise of socialism that fueled wars across Yugoslavia.

For a time, Belgrade was a back-water. Its largest population spurt was after WWII. The wars of the 90s brought a surge of refugees from Croatia, Bosnia and Kosovo along with those moving from rural Serbia.

Belgrade's strong points are its parks, decent shopping, scattered architectural gems, history, museums, and leisurely lifestyle that’s the envy of many Balkan towns. Beogradjani (Serbian for Belgrade residents) are among the world's most hospitable.

Because of Belgrade’s key position between East and West and North and South European and Serbia’s potential for EU membership, efforts are underway to polish the capital’s center. Prepare yourself for some good Turkish coffee, some strong liquor, good beer, kick back and enjoy a ride through Europe’s crossroads.