Silks to bore blokes to tears... (they sell ties) and other Bangkok, Thailand Shopping Tips

Name of Shop: Jim Thompson Factory Shop

You may have heard about Jim Thompson, the American who almost single-handedly promoted and developed the Thai silk industry and its reputation overseas. Until he mysteriously disappeared in the Cameroon Highlands in Malaysia after a cup of tea and a wander in the forest.

Jim Thompson retail outlets can be found splashed around the city, the most well known is on Thanon Suriwongse near the main Rama IV Road. Well have I got news for you ladies!!! There is a factory shop over on Sukhmuvit Soi 93 (that’s the 93rd soi on Sukhumvit Road for the uninitiated). Soi 93 is around the On Nut BTS (sky train) station, so the best way to get to it is to get the sky train, descend from the left hand side of the tracks as you came into the station (its on the end of the line so this will always be correct), walk back a bit towards Soi 93 and then get a cab up the soi.

It’s open from 10.00am to 6.00pm everyday except Sunday. Obviously a few bob cheaper than the regular retail outlets and the range is just as good.

It doesn’t allow men inside (only joking, but strangely enough this tip is never that popular with the male visitor to Bangkok ! Admittedly some of the neck ties are quite nifty and I have been in myself... don't let on I told you this).

Here's the web page that tells you when JT is having a promotion or a sale...
http://www.jimthompson.com/promotion.asp
I have now lost all my macho credibility scores in helping you ladies out here. Still, as I have strong ego boundaries I can cope.

What To Buy: Silk. Loads of it. Racks of the stuff.

What To Pay: Far too much, and expect to get comments from your spouse along the lines of "...well that will have to come out of next month's housekeeping won't it?"

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Theme: Local Craft
Directions: Sukhumvit Soi 93 is up by On Nut BT / Skytrain Station.

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MEN are not allowed to go shopping for Thai Silks unless you have signed permission from both parents and a covering letter from their local Embassy.

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Name of Shop: Found in all good stores

In olde worlde Englande touriste villagese and shoppes we get whicker basketefulles of pants craftework made by upper-middle pearl-wearing locals skimming a few quid out of unsuspecting tourists. Garbage like teddy bears wearing beefeater uniforms; lime marmalade boiled in Mrs Wistinoff’s Italian designed rural home kitchen; chunky cut mango chutney in daft pottery jars with waxed lids and labels knocked out on Mercedes’ colour laser printer. We buy this stuff in the mistaken belief we are propping up England’s buggered rural economies… while Mrs. Wistinoff merrily upgrades her double front loader dishwashing machine with steam jet sprays and triple-salco in the piked position spin dry action.

In Thailand we have OTOP. One Tambon One Product. And it knocks the knickers off woolly loo roll holders hand crocheted in Edith Weston, Rutland.

OTOP is about really helping the tambons (rough translation, rural district) get some cash in from the ever growing Bangkok economy and defend against the international thin cut golden shred in jelly marmalade conglomerates. What happens is that the tambon goes for producing something they are dead good at, and that most people actually want. Then they group together as a government supported co-operative to cut costs and find a viable economic route to market.

Usually the products are far better quality than the bland international m.s.g. loaded foods, or the available everywhere it-makes-your-skin-whiter creams. And your dosh gets out of Bangkok and funds the upcountry regions. Most of the big department stores have a section stocking OTOP products. Well worth a quick scan, and they do make very good souvenirs / small gifts for your rellies.



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Theme: Other

Name of Shop: Rajas and / or Nikkermans

Okay, so you are a bloke and you want to get some jackets, trousers and shirts: Bangkok will suit you sir, it will suit you.

Two places win hands down, for me at least. This photo is neither, reason - one of them would beat me up if I showed the other. And their window displays are woeful, this lot of costumes are more colourful.

For shirts, I use Nikkermans, basement floor of the Landmark Hotel (BTS Station Nana). Very quick and can do all the styles - great catalogues of collars, cuffs, fits etc. Decent Egyptian cottons and all the latest fabrics on hand.

From John Travolta to Dick Cheney. They'll sort anyone out.

Mrs Nikkerman and her sweatshop ladies can cope with that embroidering of initials, on the cuffs and pockets if you are into it. In case you tend to frequently forget your name and need a reference point. GWB.

It takes about two working days / one night to turn them around from a fresh measuring up.

For suits, I use Rajas, on the corner of Nana Plaza and Sukhumvit Soi 4 (best go in the daytime as at night the area turns into a red light district). (BTS Nana and 150 yd walk.)

This guy has a better fleet of supporting back tailors to those over at Nikkermans, so you get double linings, better stitching and reinforcements that cause a bit of bother and negotiating from the Nikkermans crew. Italian cloths and more upscale fabrics in here. Stuff for impressing the punters and the potential mother-in-law.

Measuring up to first fitting is around two full days. Tidy up adjustments need another full day.

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Key Tip 1: Whenever possible you should take in a current or old suit, trousers or shirt of your own, those you like the fit of. Copying patterns avoids cock ups ...and you get what you like.

Key Tip 2: If you go to tourist / hotel areas you are risking more than going to ex-pat business tailors like the above. Check the photos / business cards on the walls of fame. Locals, army, embassies, etc. you're okay. All overseas cards? Nope!

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What To Buy: See above

Don't be put off by the Kenny Rogers pictures on Rajas' wall. All the local tailors have them. Apparently Kenny lost his baggage when he was doing a concert, as did half his entourage, a few years back. So they needed loads of gear. Needless to say it was Ken what signed the photos, not the backing group.

Another thing. You may wonder what on earth these tailors are doing displaying luminescent green jackets and bright pink DJs in their windows. Well, we have a theory that instead of getting tatoos some drunken folk get measured for bizarre outfits, dump the deposit and then never dare go back and collect the finished articles. Believe me, when you get to Bangkok and look at these window displays you'll cry tears of fashion laughter.

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Key Tip 3: Ladies' gowns etc... hit the decent boutiques on Lang Suan, Chidlom

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What To Pay: Depends how large your body is. Just remember... you can laugh and boast at how much you haggle these guys down to start with. They will be laughing when it falls apart on you two weeks later...

Most tailors ask cash deposit of 50% up front till they get to know you... and some proof of which hotel you are staying in Maybe they are tired of making yellow and green stripey trenchcoats.

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Theme: Men's Clothes
Directions: Sukhumvit Road, Nana BTS Station - area around the Landmark Hotel and Sukhumvit Soi 4 / 3

Name of Shop: Inside River City Complex

...will add in the text shortly - watching the canadian grand prix and can't concentrate.

Right here you are.

Inside River City you get four floors of "stores" (aye), and they are in the main well laid out and beautifully presented. Many are extremely pricey, so if not buying you can at least gawp at what wealthy antique dealers the world over are stocking up on. Pretend you're Indiana Jones maybe. But don't crack your whip indoors, eh, as it may be seen as rude and could take someone's eye out. The quality of the stuff in here is pretty good. Of course you get the odd shop selling fakes - I mean, who is daft enough to immediately pronounce at the top of their voice that their stuff is from Angkor Wat, and expect to get away with it. If it was from Angkor they'd be dealing with you in a backroom, or when they know you. As some do.Tut tut.

Most of Asia is represented in R City. from Japan down to Indonesia, from Tibet over to Pulau. Furniture, sculpture, antique map shops, it's got the lot. You can deck your house to look like that "Asian Style" coffee table book in about twenty minutes of credit card waving... if your bank manager likes you.

And a marvellous smell of furniture wax. You can easily spend an afternoon here and not get bored.

What To Buy: There are enough smaller things for the special "we were here the once, so what the heck" gift / trip memento.

Big pieces they pack and ship.

What To Pay: 20 - 30% cheaper than Hong Kong and Singapore.

30% + cheaper than Malaysia - and far better stock quality.

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Theme: Art
Directions: River City River Taxi Pier, the river taxi stops plumb outside.

On your way from Rattanokosin Island (old centre) to the Shangri La Hotel route.

Or get a cab to the Thanon Charoen Krung area, ask for the Shangri La.

Name of Shop: River City Main Hall

...to add in soon.
Promise. We're on lap 66 out of 70

Two dimensional art exhibitions regularly show at The River City Antiques Complex in the main display hall. Usually they are sales of the works of pretty high quality local artists.

They will "de-frame" the works and pack it small if you are pushed for space, or box / crate up the works for you. They do a good job in the protection stakes. And they also arrange shipping... there is a shipping office they use as a central shared resource for all of the traders in the complex. Even if you are not buying, the exhibitions give you a good feel as to how smart the Thai art fraternity is.



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Theme: Art
Directions: River City Antique Complex, up by the Chao Phraya river and Thanon Charoen Krung. (Fairly near the Shangri La and Oriental Hotel Area)

Name of Shop: Beyond The Masks: River City

...whack this in soon, Schumacker is catching up Raikonen...

Should you be into tribal Arts, and the stuff that inspires Henry Moore's sculptures, and some of Picasso's cubist bits, then you could get over to River City and check out at least four stores that specialise in popular culture / tribal arts.

A good deal of Indonesian and Polynesian art originals, not the copies made out of a plank of pine wood and then boot polished. Often pieces are tastefuly mounted up as well. It is not the tourist tack you will see on the beach and street stalls / Chatuchak Market. Masks and ceramics can be bagged for under $100 - though of course the sky is the limit. All the fertility stuff is in here ...should that be your wont. If you have ever read or browsed "Asian Arts Magazine" you may recognise some of the stores in River City as those advertising in half page expensive spreads.

What To Buy: Ethnic and tribal arts from the East Asia and South Pacific Region.

Some occasional pieces from Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan.

What To Pay: Sky's the limit. (I may have mentioned that before. Twice won't hurt.)

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Theme: Art
Directions: River City has its own river taxi pier on the Chao Phraya. It's between the old centre and the Shnagri La Hotel. ...Ask dyslexics fro dircetions.

Name of Shop: Section 7 Chatuchak Market

If you have gone beserk buying more stuff than you can carry home on the plane, particularly at Chatuchak Market, you can easily find reliable packing and shipping companies to send your stuff home by surface or air.

There are more than a few shipping agents in Section Seven of Chatuchak Market who are more than trustworthy. I've used this lot here on more than one occasion, no losses, reasonable rates... and they give you a glass of OJ while they box it all up out the back.

Civilised here isn't it?



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Theme: Other

Name of Shop: AVCamera - Bangrak

I don’t really rate the camera stores in Bangkok as being that fantastic on price or advice. The problem is the models aren’t always the latest, and the prices not that miraculous when compared to Hong Kong or Singapore. But if you can’t get to HK or Singapore then you can get stuff in these two shops at the standard list prices you would find on the internet.

AV Cameras by the Robinsons in Bangrak (ask for Robinsons Department Store Bangrak, by the river, Oriental Hotel sort of area). Bang Rak…. The Town of Love. AVCameras has a host of photographic (digital and film) supplies for the type who understands what an f-stop is. They’ve enlargers and developing tanks as well as a good range of the almost latest cameras and lenseseses. Professional films, humidifiers, memory cards, filters, waterproof casings, etc. AV Cameras has probably the highest level of general knowledge in Bangkok that I have come across, and at least they are interested in cameras and photography.

Or the other place I go to is the specialist Nikon shop called Sunny’s on Thanon Charoen Krung – this road runs one way outside River City, and is just a bit further down from AVCameras. If you get the Saturday / part time staff in “Sunnys” then tough mahooleys. They play everything straight down the “I can’t do anything for you that isn’t in the job description manual” line.

What To Buy: So alas, no superbly huge dobbing great savings on camera goods in Bangkok. Though I can say these two places are great if you are stuck and in need of getting out of a fix. If you are fortunate enough to be traveling through via Singapore or Hong Kong or London or New York or… get your kit before you get here.

What To Pay: Same as list prices shown on the internet, unless they are flogging off old stock (not often happens)

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Theme: Hobbies
Directions: AVCameras has a Thai language web site, http://www.avcamera.com/index.php (That's what the pic is of... a web page)

AV Cameras
1 Soi Keson (Charenkrong 50), Next to Robinson Department Store, Bangrak, (Near the River and the Oriental Hotel)

Name of Shop: OP: Oriental Place

This mini mall of boutique tourist shops is opposite from the Oriental Hotel and has dead expensive stuff in it that tourists and travellers love. At quite high prices, but the quality is reliable.

Jewelry shops, a few antique places, and that sort of thing. The refined class of Doris loves this stuff. They do. I have seen them. Huge grins as the Amex goes into meltdown. My advice? Dump the ladies and nip off sharpish to Harmonique Cafe round the corner to read the Saturday papers and have a few cold ones. And don't leave your credit cards behind. A man's nightmare. A total utter male nightmare. The whole place smells of perfume and leather handbags and expensive rings and bracelets and necklaces and ohhhhh..... agh!



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Theme: Gifts
Directions: Opposite the Oriental Hotel (stand with your back to the hotel door, it is forward and to your left, through the arches and on the other side of the forecourt parking / waiting area).

Name of Shop: Airport and King Power Duty Free

Unfortunately the King Power Duty Free Shops in the World Trade Centre and at the Airport ARE NOT GOOD VALUE compared to what you expect of a Duty Free. Okay, so you may not pay Duty, but the price must have been jacked up as it is very doubtful you will get a bargain on regular store prices. There are a good many Bangkok whingers on this... here's one from today's Bangkok Post. He does it better than me...

"..for example, I can buy a litre bottle of Irish whisky 84 baht cheaper at my local store (Big C) than the airport. ...a promotion for hilltribe coffee, was 470 baht, at my local supermarket the same pack is 298 baht. ...and the camera? The airport price for the model I wanted was 17,690 baht with an additional 2,690 baht for the SD card. Three quotes at downtown camera stores were the same. Where is the "free" in duty free?" .W. Lawrence. Bangkok Post 18th August 2005

My experience is that the books are marked up too. Asia Books at the airport definitely does this, with a price sticker plonked ovr the rec'd publisher's price. In their same fascia downtown store the same books are 30% cheaper. ( Duh, do they think we are that daft ? ) ...the proof of the pudding. How many people do you see at Don Muang Airport with Duty Free bags of booze, cigs, perfume, etc ... compared to those you would see at Schipol, Heathrow, Hong Kong etc. ?

I rest my case my lud.

What To Buy: What? What? I've just ranted at you... I do not buy anything at the King Power Duty Frees at Don Muang or elsewhere in Thailand. And I recommend you don't either, not if you are looking for a real saving that is. (If you are in a last minute panic, well go on then.).

Your own Duty Free is more likely to provide you with better bargains. The best Duty Free in Asia is Changi, Singapore. One more moan... The Power King range of items is pants. And the staff not too interested or knowledgeable. (Not surprising if you only get paid US$130 a month. One day off a week. On your feet all day. Nearest lav 957 metres away. Bring your own paper. Enough Ian ! Enough ! - editor))

What To Pay: Any further coment would be superfluous...

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Theme: Other
Directions: King Power Duty Frees at the Airport or World Trade Centre. Total utter pants.