There are 5 millions Nagas, two in Nagaland, one in Manipur, one in Arunachal Pradesh, and one in Myanmar. Nagas, immediately after the British withdrawal from India, declared their independence on 14th August 1947, the only tribe in the North East territories to do so. India declared its independence one day later, on 15th august. I saw in a map that the train would penetrate a small fragment of Nagaland, the commercial town of Dimapur. But I was told by the passengers that in the station I will be required the Restricted Area Permit and that those days after Independence Day all the train stations were filled up with soldiers looking for weapons because recently the terrorist have blasted a grenada in Dimapur. I would have to jump off the train while in motion. Have you ever tried? It is not like in the films, I can assure you, but much harder. I tried only once, in Boise, Idaho, in my time of hobo in the USA and almost broke my two legs. I was lucky, just before reaching Dimapur the train slowed down and thus I could jump easily, it was like a children game, and this time did not fall to the floor as in Boise. I surrounded the station and when to the bus station. “Go openly”, I remembered. I boarded a minibus and left to Kohima, Nagaland capital. After a few kilometres there was a control besides a pretty gate with fantastic animals carved in it. One soldier looked inside and not noticing anything strange gave orders to open the barrier to let us continue to Kohima. Hurrah! Afterwards I was told that for my aspect, with black hair and brown eyes, I looked like a kachemiri from Srinagar, and being the naga so decent people, they figured out that if I travelled to Kohima was because I had the permit with me. They are so honest that cannot imagine a foreigner entering their state without the authorization. I visited the cemetery, the main tourist attraction of Kohima, which was in the same centre of the town. Kohima is surnamed the Asiatic Stalingrad. The battle fought there during WWII was horrible and many thousands of lives, Japanese, British and Indians, were lost. After that visit I continued by taxi through the same road up to the hill where was located the imposing Catholic Cathedral. I felt like naked in Kohima. Not a single foreigner in sight, or an Indian. And Naga people are rather small. I felt that everybody was staring at me with unusual interest asking themselves who was I and why I was in their land. The priests in the Catholic Cathedral were so disconcerted by my embarrassing visit that they asked me what I preferred, to be reported to the police or to be helped to get back to Dimapur where they knew of a hotel where foreigners are not asked the Restricted Area Permit. I opted for the second variant and arrived to a hotel in Dimapur at night. Next day I took a bus to Tezpur, back in Assam, then another one to Bhalukpong, on the border with Arunachal Pradesh, my seventh Sister. |