"Downtown altitude sickness" La Paz by Assenczo

Clinging to the edge

La Paz is struggling at least formally to receive this special recognition of being a capital of a nation – not that it matters, most of the people take it as a fact anyway. What it strikes the visitor with is not the stateliness of its boulevards, shi-shi shopping or cosmopolitan feel. It is not even the ritzy area so well emphasized by the city tours. What grabs your imagination is that favela living with the most perfect view. From your door step you can look DOWN upon the miserables in the city center and they on the other hand can lust after your precarious position and wonder whether you will be still there after the next year’s rainy season. Moreover, the rumour has it, the place is quite affordable.

Old money in old square

The main plaza has a more “normal” appearance. The usual colonial outfit, brightly painted and generally in a very good shape. It is a lovely location for people watching and shoe shining as well. One of the most distinctive elements of La Paz is its shoe-shining boys inspired by ninja movies and wearing the respective balaclavas. How do they think this outfit facilitates their business is beyond me. Anyway, 1-2 bolivianos is a good investment after a gruelling day in the dusty back alleys of the Cordillera Real. You do not want to feel out of place in your hotel where only the ultimate boors would not have their shoes shining like a full moon over Illimani.

• Pros:Staggering location
• Cons:You do not want to look at details
• In a nutshell:Illimani vista plus soroche