A walkabout tour of Auxerre and other Auxerre, France Things to Do Tips

For the short time i had i went straight into the Tourist Office there where i was in the town centre, excited by all the timbered buildings with their carved corners and polychrome characters around me, for a map or idea of the sights.

I was given a 'Follow the Thread of History in Auxerre' walking/'pedestrian' map which explains that the city of Auxerre and the Auxerre region Tourist Information Centre have chosen to create a pedestrian route in Auxerre's historical town centre that is marked and accompanied by a brochure to help passing tourists discover the remarkable monuments, picturesque streets, unusual points of view or colourful neighbourhoods.

It is also points out that Auxerre residents can also benfit from the project to rediscover their city and look at what remains unseen or is no longer noticed!

The walk of course can start anywhere on your map - significant sites are shown on your map and information given. The recommended start by the Tourist Centre is outside its main office at the river where you will 'admire one of of France's most beautiful panoramas from the footbridge spanning the Yonne River'.

Hows that for a recommendation!!

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Phone: 0033 (0)386520619
Address: 1-2, Quai de la Republique, Auxerre 89000
Directions: theres a small branch of the tourist office by the clock tower which is close to good big parking areas so i ended up there. main office and walk start down by the river
Website: www.ot-auxerre.fr
Other Contact: info@ot-auxerre.fr

This rather attractive clock tower was built during the 15th century on the foundation of a tower from a Gallo-Roman fort. It was first used as a count's prison and then converted to a clock and bell tower in 1483.

Apparently it was ravaged in a fire in 1825 but was restored.

It is detailed on both sides and gives rather a lot of character to the town centre with its rather attractive surroundings of old timbered buildings.

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Adding character to the lovely place also are polychrome figures of notable personalities from around the town - particularly the ones made by local Auxerre artist Francois Brochet who has a display of works in the Auxerre Museum.

Notables such as the local writer Nicolas Restif de la Bretonne in 1806, where he began his professional career in the neighbourhood with the regions great printer Francois Fornier, whose statue sits together with his wife near the clock and bell tower.

And also one of France's famous 20 th century poetess Marie-Noel (1883-1967), who lived and worked in Auxerre. Her polychrome statue stands on the other side of the clock and bell tower outside the Town Hall/Hotel de Ville.

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Address: Tue de l'Horloge

There are many lovely timbered or timber framed houses around Auxerre - most likely from around the 16th century -

look out for the ones with interesting sculpted decorations on the corner posts.

I saw a few of them which adds to the novelty of being in and roaming around a town with such character and historical sights to see!

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Directions: follow the recommended walking tour around Auxerre as per the Tourist Information Centre and see the interesting little additions
Website: www.ot-auxerre.fr

The Tourist Information Centre 'Follow the Thread of History in Auxerre' walking map says that this place or square is one of the loveliest in the Marine area - its down near the river and where all the bargemen and assistances lived and worked.

The passenger barge landing stage was just near here in front of Saint Nicolas Place, and transported travellers and goods from here to Paris several times a week.
This apparently also often included the young Napoleon Bonaparte on his way from Brienne to Paris and again years later during his attempt to return from exile.

I thought this spot was particularly scenic and photogenic with lovely timbered houses and a water well with colorful flowers all below the also picturesque Saint German Abbey.

The large house in the mid of the photo is a beautiful residence characteristic of old time river warehouses with the lower half, or ground floor, in stone for the storehouse and timber frame for the apartment levels.

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Address: Place du Coche d'eau
Directions: near the river and near Saint Nicolas Place

This is where the passenger barges landing stage was located here on the river in front of this square. Passenger barges transported travellers and goods from Auxerre to Paris several times a week and interestingly apparently often included the young Napoleon Bonaparte who wouldve been travelling from Brienne to Paris and then later when he was older during his 'hundred day' attempt to regain power after his exile.

The large building with the statue of Saint Nicolas, the patron saint of catholic bargemen and their assistants, seems to have existed since the 17th century and the polychrome statue form the 18th century.

The Saint-Loup parish's brotherhood of Saint Nicolas begged from travellers here until the disbandment by the Revolution.

The fountain that you see here was built in 1832 by an italian artist for a square elsewhere but transferred here in 1909.

The large restaurant that you also here in the square, before the Revolution, was the passenger barges' warehouse and offices with stables on the ground level for the horses that hauled the riverboats. The stables were converted into the neighbourhoods wash house for a period of time during the 19th century.

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This rather attractive mansion, in a rather attractive street heading up to the Saint Germain Abbey, may date from the 17th century and creates attention with its large roof and overlapping truss. It has recently been restored and now holds a master glassmaker's workshops and exhibition.

Interestingly tucked under some trees at the square a couple of houses along from this house is a British phone box!

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Address: Rue Cochois
Directions: the street heading up the hill to the tower and abbey
Website: www.ot-auxerre.fr

St Germain Abbey, up on the hill above St Nicolas Place and the Marine neighbourhood, has apparently held the remains since the 5th century of Saint Germain who died in Ravenna in 448.

Archeological work has only reached back to the 6th century construction but apparently the Carthingian crypts built between 841 and 859 are regarded as examples of some of Europe's most beautiful! - these are accessible by guided tour but unfortunately the place was closed when I was there!

The abbey church was reconstructed in the 11th century with the facade and Saint Jean tower completed in the 12th century. New monastic buildings were constructed at this time with the monks hall,( of the Benedictines order?), chapter house and sacristy which still exist, completed in the 13th century. The cloister, sleeping quarters and refectory were reconstructed in the 17th century.

The old conventual buildings now contain Auxerre's Museum of art and history with prehistoric, Gallo-Roman and medieval collections on display and temporary exhibitions held through the year.

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Address: Rue Cochois

The surrounding wall is apparently the only medieval fortification element that can still be seen above ground in Auxerre.

The current crenallated walls and tower were constructed in 1320. A windmill was built in the tower during the 15th century.

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Address: Place St Germain
Website: www.ot-auxerre.fr

Auxerre's college was founded in the second half of the 16th century by Jacques Amyot who was bishop of Auxerre and apparently a famous translator of Plutarch's works. The bishop donated the college to the city of Auxerre and it was run by the Jesuits until the order was abilished in 1762 during the Revolution.
It was then run by laymen followed by the Benedictines from St Germain Abbey and then converted into a royal military school in 1777.

It became a boys school in 1802 and then Auxerre's first high school during the 20th century.

This place is not open for visiting as its a school but the architecture and lovely sculptured garden can be admired through the gates from the main road.

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Address: Rue du lycee Jacques-Amyot
Directions: around the corner from the St Germain Abbey and Place St GErmain