Lunch with a view : Eating at the Louvre and other Paris, France Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Name: Café Marly

Situated in the Louvre itself, overlooking the square and the pyramid, The cafe Marly offers an unique location.

Sure, it's a bit pricey (count some 50 Euros for a lunch with a glass of wine) but having done that you may tell everybody that you ate at Louis XIII's terrace, just some feet away from Mona Lisa...

If not exceptional, the food is good (refined and traditional french cooking) and once again, what an emplacement.

The cafe Marly beeing famous and considered 'in', reservation is recommended (either for lunch or for dinner) but you can always have a snack here inbetween (and it will be more affordable).
The cafe Marly is open from 8am to 2am 7/7.

Favorite Dish: Chose what you want, but try to be seated at the terrace facing the Pyramid (at sundown or after dark when the Pyramid is alight, it's feeric).

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Theme: French
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: US$41 and up  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 49 26 06 60
Address: 93 rue Rivoli - 75001
Directions: Louvre Museum (facing the Pyramid, you can access from rue de Rivoli by the Passage Richelieu)
Website: none

Restaurant Name: Monte-Carlo

The Champs Elysees area is famous for high priced restaurants. So, were do local people shopping or working in the area eat ?

For sure there are fast foods there, but if you want to seat down and have a regular meal of basic french/international cooking (roasted chicken, steak, fish), a good solution is the Monte Carlo : a self service / cafeteria type restaurant on the avenue de Wagram.

It looks bit like an upscale society cafeteria, you can eat fast, the food is fresh, the cooking really correct and the prices acceptable (expect to pay 12-15€).

Plus it's open 7/7 and serves warm meals from 11H to 23H and they have children seats.

Don't be afraid by the queue at lunch time : yes, all the neighbourhoods workers know this address but the crowd moves fast (or - if you are not on a tight schedule - you may avoid to go there between 12h15 and 13h30)

Favorite Dish: They have fresh fish and good red meat + a decent choice of vegetables.
If you have kids : they always have pastas and fries.

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Theme: Other
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 43 80 02 20
Address: 9 avenue de Wagram 75017 Paris
Directions: From the Arc de Triomphe, take the avenue de Wagram direction Place des Ternes, the Monte Carlo is on the left side.
Website: none
Other Contact: monte.carlo@wanadoo.fr

Restaurant Name: Au chien qui fume

So, french dogs do smoke ! At least this one did.

Among the eldest restaurants in Paris (since 1740), less known by tourists than its (often overcrowded) neighbour "Le pied de cochon", more sensibly priced and apreciated by local/midle class patrons for a - little - splurge, "le Chien qui fume" (the smoking dog - the first owner's dog was supposed to smoke the pipe) offers - in a bit old fashioned deco - a traditional fine "cuisine bourgeoise" .

The restaurant can accomodate groups (booking mandatory in this case) and is open from noon until 2am (interesting for jet lagged persons).

The service is quiet, discrete and efficient (a place where your can go to talk over your plate) and the wines card nice (in the affordable range).

Favorite Dish: Until the 60's the neighbourhood (les Halles) was the national hub for fresh food trading (now it's in Rungis) and the restaurant maintains the tradition of using fresh and irreproachable products (especially when it comes to meat or fish).
Nothing hype or fancy, just plain good.

My favourites ?
The Filet de Bar roti (finding bar is not always easy)
For the dessert : Millefeuille a l'Ecorce d'Orange (a bit different than the common vanilla or chocolate one).

Prices in the 30-40 Euros for dinner (a bit up in the last years but the price/quality ratio is still good).

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Theme: French
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$31-40  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 42 36 07 42
Address: 33, Rue du Pont-Neuf (1st)
Directions: Metro Ch?telet
RER Les Halles
Website: http://www.au-chien-qui-fume.com/index-gb.htm
Other Contact: Fax 01 42 36 36 85

Restaurant Name: Paul

If you are (a bit) in a hurry and on a (quasi) shoestring - if you are not very hungry, but still want a hot meat, seated at a table, try Paul ! (a favourite among young professionals for lunch when there is nothing tempting at the office cafeteria or during a shopping session).

This chain of bakeries, apart good traditional bread - (Caution anglo-saxon friends : this means crust !) serves relatively small one or two courses meals ( large salads, omelettes, paillassons , ...and cakes) at affordable prices (a cheese omelette served with salad and tomatoes is around 6 Euros).

The products are fresh, made in situ and the boutiques are situated in most commercial neighbourhoods and in some touristic areas in Paris and over France (the firm has its origins near Lille) .

There is one under the Louvre, one boulevard Hausmmann and one in nearly every shopping mall.

Formules are offered from 8.50 to 14 Euros (a warm dish or a large salad, a dessert, a drink : mineral water or soda or beer).

The service is versatile in terms of speed, depending on the place and the waiters - but you are nearly sure to be able to eat in less than 30 minutes - and if you are really in a hurry you can always take away sandwiches or (hot)quiches (formules here too : 1 sandwich + 1 drink + a dessert : 6-8 Euros).

Favorite Dish: Try the pailasson provencal : grated roasted potatoes, served with tomatoes, salad and mushrooms
Or an omelette (cheese + ham)
Or quenelles
Tarte au chocolat

For sandwiches : the pavot / poulet
In winter (since 2005/2006) they serve soups (vegetables based), filled tomatoes served with rice, gratines...

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Theme: Bakery
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: Different locations across Paris (and France)
Directions: Some strategical addresses
14 boulevard St Michel
25 avenue de l'Opéra
37 rue Tronchet 8th (the one in the picture, near Printemps, Opera, ...)
1 rue Pierre Lescot (Les Halles)
Galerie du Carrousel du Louvre
70 rue de Rivoli 4th
etc...
Website: http://www.paul.fr/uk/histoire.php

Restaurant Name: Angelina

Don't cry for me Angelina...
I'm sure i still will come back

Despite having gone a bit way down in the last years, the salon de thé/patisserie "Angelina" remains THE temple of hot chocolate (even if the new recipe they introduced some years ago contains way too much sugar for my taste)

This venerable institution (formerly maison Rumpelmeyer) is interesting, not only for the chocolate and the pastries, but also for the patrons : you will come across - among the crowds - celebrities (past, present and wannabe), real "grandes dames" and "p'tites mamies" (and, of course, tourists)

You go there, for the deco, for the name, for the casting, to say you have been there, and, eventually, to eat a morsel.

OK, enough bad things said : the pastries are adequate (even excelent if you like them VERY VERY sweeet (i don't - prefering the -unkilled- strong cacao taste)) and you can't beat the location - under Rue de Rivoli's archway - to have either a light lunch or an afternoon coffee(chocolate) break.

A rather good new is the change of owner end 2004, this may give a new impulse to the tired staff (and the dusty carpets)

PS : closed on tuesday in summer

Favorite Dish: The house speciality : "l'Africain" a thick hot chocolate
Among the pastries : the "Mont-Blanc" : creamy chocolate cake

You can also have a light lunch or just buy some patries or chocolate (powder or plates) to take away

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Theme: Coffeehouse
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: US$31-40  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 42 60 82 00
Address: 226 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris
Directions: In front the Jardin des Tuileries
Metro Palais Royal or Louvre - Rivoli
Website: http://www.angelina.fr/ (but the link seems dead)
Other Contact: fax : 01 42 86 98 97

Restaurant Name: Les Ailes

Located Rue Richer - in the 'other' jewish area in Paris, just beside the "Folies Bergeres", Les Ailes offers a kosher (beth din) tunisian cooking.
The food is a colorfull, mix of french and oriental cooking.
You can eat in the restaurant or chose and take away, there is also a pastry shop/bakery at the street corner completing the choice.

The restaurant is open from noon to 14h30 and from 19h to 23h30 even on saturday (but you need to order and prepay on friday).
The take away is open from 10 am on.

Favorite Dish: The tunisian plates are, in my opinion, delicious.
Try the Couscous, the roasted lamb, the fishes...
And don't forget the Tunisian and other oriental pastries (one bazillion calories each, but who cares ?)

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Theme: Kosher/Halal
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$21-30  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 47 70 62 53
Address: 34 RUE RICHER - 75009 Paris
Directions: Métro : Grands Boulevards, just beside the Folies Bergeres
Website: http://www.lesailes.fr/restaurant.html
Other Contact: info@lesailes.fr

Restaurant Name: Le Malassi

This small restaurant near Grands Boulevards (behind Printemps and Galeries Lafayette) serving a prix unique lunch (three courses meal for 13,50 Euros - wine not included) - plain family type cooking, is a favourite among people working in the area.

No card ; all meals are listed on black boards in the salle and you have to select between :
- 6-8 starters
- 6-8 main course
- about 10 desserts (to chose at the special counter).

The restaurant's name is a pun "malassi" (for mal assis) meaning 'bad seated' (the chairs are perfectly confortable but the tiny restaurant is generally crowded at lunch time, better book if you are more than 2 persons).

PS : don't expect the staff to speak much English (except maybe one of the waitresses...)

PPS : Open for lunch only, closed on saturday / sunday

Favorite Dish: The only meal to avoid is "steak frites" (unbelievably : they are unable to provide decent fries)
Else it's "like mum's cooking" (nothing fancy but just good family cooking).

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Theme: French
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 48 74 86 66
Address: 54 Rue Taitbout - 75009 Paris
Directions: Metro Chaussée d'Antin - Rue Lafayette
When you are rue Lafayette (with your back to Galeries Lafayette) turn left to rue Taitbout
Website: none

Restaurant Name: Foyer de la Madeleine

Not exactly in the church but in the basement - Under the posh Madeleine church, is a small / cheap restaurant.

Not only the location is original (in the XVIIth century's church cellars) but the complete concept : a the beginning it was a place intended to provide the very-poor among the locals with the possibility to have a ‘normal’ meat in a RESTAURANT rather than in a social service cafeteria.

The 'foyer de la Madeleine' was created in 1969 by the Madeleine parish. It is still operated by volunteers (generally middle aged to somewhat older ladies, all wearing a very old fashioned apron) and still serves free meals to the poorest (proof card needed).

But – to be able to get some self-funding - the restaurant has taken the turn to be open to anybody.

No booking, you have to share your (bare wooden) table with whoever is there (elderly locals, chic excutives, construction workers, street cleaners and shop assistants…) and don’t expect the staff to speak something else than French.

The is no ‘carte’ only fixed menus (2 or 3) but for the price … and the cooking is very acceptable (the level of a good canteen)
The menu is 7 euros (if you have the card : 2 Euros/year), else 7,50 euros (April 2006).

Open Monday to Friday from 11h45 to 15 heures (last service 14 h)
Closed on holidays and from mid july to end august.

(for those interested there is always a priest in attendence)

Favorite Dish: I have been there more than once, tried a soup (tomatoes), a part of guinea fowl with cabbage and a chocolate tart once, and, another time, a vegetables salad, lasagnas and lemon custard, all of them were very decent

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Theme: French
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 47 42 39 84
Address: 14, rue de Suresne -75008 Paris
Directions: Place de la Madeleine (Metro Madeleine) under the church
Entry behind the flower market.
Website: none

Restaurant Name: Léon de Bruxelles

For all the mussels lovers who don't want to break a bank, Léon de Bruxelles is THE unavoidable address ( this small Belgo-French chain (in fact the restaurants are franchises : same providers but independant management) features a cooking common in North France/South Belgium).

The restaurants, all over Paris, (and in some province towns as in Bruxelles) offer a large choice in mussels receipes, depending on the season (you can even get mussels in the months whose name doesn't contain a "R" (Mai, Juin, Juillet, Aout = summer, considered low season for this type of food).

A 3 courses meal (a salad + mussels+ fries + a waffle or a tart) is 12-15 Euros

For those not liking mussels, they serve good fish
The fries are "eat as much as you can"
The restaurants are kids' friendly (you can even eat with your fingers if you like)
And the beers' choice is decent

Favorite Dish: Moules marinières and frites of course, and waffles

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Theme: Other
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Address: see below
Directions: 3 bd Beaumarchais- 63 av des Champs-Elysées-120 rue Rambuteau -0 bd des Italiens -1 place Pigalle -82 bd du Montparnasse -131 bd St Germain -8 place de la République -95 bd Gouvion St Cyr - 8 place de Clichy - 64 av des Gobelins - 349 rue de Vaugirard
Website: http://www.leon-de-bruxelles.fr/

Restaurant Name: Le Train Bleu

Inaugurated in april 1901, le Train Bleu (called after the Paris-Vintimille train), has been classified as an historical monument in 1972 : the ceiling is indeed spectacular : the 41 frescos retrace the journey made by the trains of the PLM railway network at the beginning of the 20th century - Many people in the wold have catched a glimpse of it (in a scene in Luc Besson's film "Nikita").

You come to the Train Bleu to see the deco, to talk, to meet people (i had my first VT meeting there, Thanks Beatchick) and even to eat.
It's a place where the time is somewhat slower (like the service) - a bit of the past in a TGV (bullet train station).

The food (traditional, slighly south-west french cooking) is perfectly decent (no double somersault of joy but no disapointment - maybe a bit too expensive for what is in the- well presented - plate) is a bit secondary.

PS : The restaurant is obviously geared toward tourists (no wonder in a railway station) and is aware of USAmerican tourists' idiosyncracies : i had to ask for a french menu : the one i got first was in english (with german and spanish subtitles) and it was the first time in my life were i got butter on the table beside the bread ( served on a plate with a knife) in a french restaurant.

Restaurant : Open everyday of the year 11:30am-3pm & 7-11pm

Bar (le Big-Ben : a tribute to the British people who, on their way to the french riviera at the beginning of the 20th century used to have some alcoholic 'refuel') open Monday-Friday 7:30am-11pm

Favorite Dish: What i tried :
Saucisson chaud pistach?, Cabillaud plancha and baba au rhum (huge) : not extraordinary but good (and since the company was great....)
All in all an enjoyable,unhurried, moment.

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Theme: French
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: US$41 and up  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 43 43 09 06
Address: Gare de Lyon (Place Louis Armand - 12th)
Directions: Metro: Gare de Lyon (lines 1 & 14)
RER: Gare de Lyon (lines A & D)
The restaurant is on the first floor in the depature hall - "Grandes lignes"
Website: http://www.le-train-bleu.com