Narjile in Amman.
Smoking a narjile is, in my opinion, along with hammams an essential part of any visit to the middle east, whether or not you are a regular smoker. As you walk in any given city you will likely see cafes filled with people puffing away. As well some restaurants also offer this as an after dinner option to accompany your chai tea.
Known to us westerners as 'hookah' or 'hubble bubble', in the narjile you don't smoke just any tobacco. Infact there is specially made tobacco for just this purpose, it is flavoured and very sticky and thick (molasses like). The flavours on offer range from apple or cherry to vanilla or mint, and anything in between.
If or when buying one to bring home, remember that you are not the first westerner with this idea. The locals have caught on and there are many tourist oriented shops of this type that will rob you blind. If you have lots of money, well it's yours and I'm going to tell you how to spend it, but if like me you are on a budget and would like to buy one, shop around. I bought one in the back alleys of the Damascus souk for 500SP, I would have paid 2000-3000SP for the exact same thing in some of the more prominantly positioned shops. Also the one I bought is perfect smoking condition and is being put to use now and again, many of the tourist oriented shops (so I hear) will sell them to you 'forgetting' to mention that this model is for display only and cannot be smoked from as it won't work. Make sure to ask, if you want it for display or to use.
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