Rijeka Things to Do Tips by hquittner

Grand Opera at the National Theater(Part1)

Hrvatsko Narodni Kazalista is named forRijeka-born composer Ivan Zajc(1832-1914).It is very similar (same architects) to one in Zagreb and stands at the edge of Kazaliani Park. It has a broad dome over a wide orchestra and 3 levels of boxes and a balcony and a Royal box.. Floral brackets support the 1st and 3rd box level but the 2nd level is enlivened byfull-busomed carytids between the boxes brazenly supporting the upper level on raised folded arms.The opening feature was Verdi's Aida (his latest hit-this was late 19C).A memorial bust of him surrmounts the lobby.The dome displays 6 murals symbolizing types of music, When the original painter was slow in providing the canvases, the architects made the authorities accept a new young Viennese painter Gustave Klimt(1862-1910). This first commission provides Rijeka with thebest paintins in Croatia.We are partial to opera in such a site and would have enjoyed it if we could have worked it out. Maybe you can do it. They have a long season{ in summer too?)

Address: Verdijeva bb.

Directions: Kazaliani Park near the Kanal.We were on a special tour and other than entry for a performance, we do not know about entry. Inquire.

Church of the Holy Mother at Trsat

According to those of great faith, in May 1291, the House of the Virgin Mary(prserved and vernerated until that time in Nazareth)was translated by angels to the hilltop in Trsat above Rieja, where it remained fro 3 1/2 years. Sometime in 1294 the angels moved it again to Recanati, Italy where it forms the shrine of Loreto. Pilgrimage worship (and miracles) continued at the Trsat site. A Churchand Monastery (1431),, a chapel (+1310), an immense staircase (1531) have been built and added to. The votive offerrings(for the miraculous interventions) have filled a chapel in the compound. The present Pope has visited recently to reaffim the devotion.. The pictured altarpiece was supposedly a gift from Pope Urban V "The Mother of Mercy" ostensibly painted by St. Luke.

Address: Hill of Trsat

National Theater {Part2)

Ivan Zajc for whom the theater was named was the most prolific (and successful) Croatian composer.He was trained in Milan and exposed to the overwhelming popularity of Verdi. He went to Vienna and became a popular composer of operettas (then the rage) .He returned resolved to bring music to Croatia(where such development had been suppressed by the Turks).He founded the Croatian Opera and a school and wrote 15 operas in Croatian(and more operettas) In 1897 he discovered an opera of Lisinski (an earlier writer) which he produced(named Porin), which ibecame the National Opera.I have never heard Croatian serious music ;recordings do exist. As to the Klimt pictured here, it is called "Martial Music",. Can you feel his early instincts for form and color?

Address: See Pt.1.