| Page Views: 5,208 Last Visit to Tajikistan: July, 2006 | Tajikistan - gateway to the Pamirs :-)) by Trekki - last update: Jan 12, 2009 |
My impressions of a wonderful country | On 4500 m - with peaks nearing 6500 m |
"There are few treasures of more lasting worth than the experiences of a way of life that is in itself wholly satisfying.
Such, after all, are the only possessions of which no fate, no cosmic catastrophe can deprive us; nothing can alter the fact if for one moment in eternity we have really lived."
Eric Shipton
Summer 2006 (July and August) brought me to Tajikistan, as part of a trip through Central Asia. I came into the country via land, crossing the border from Samarkand to Penjikent and from there on to Dushanbe. Well, Dushanbe was an experience on its own, but it was related only to some British rip-off gangsters, called Traveltajikistan, who use their customers as banks to draw money for everything. From there I took the magic flight to Khorog, capital of the Pamir region and eventually went eastwards from there, along the Pamir Highway, with several stops here and there, until Osh in Kyrgyzstan.
I cannot say much about Tajikistan as a whole country, as I was travelling mostly in the Pamir region (and will never hold the Tajiks responsible for the gangsters I encountered in Dushanbe). But already the western region of Tajikistan holds beautiful mountain treasures such as the Fan Mountains. I only got a glimpse of these on my way from Penjikent to Dushanbe, but, yes, the more I think, the more I am sure that I’ll go there as well one day.
But the Pamir region, in eastern Tajikistan, is for me the most marvellous part of this country, for the landscape, the mountains and of course, the locals. This region is part of the Pamir Mountains, which together with Tien Shan in the north, Karakorum and Hindukush in the south and the Himalaya form the highest coherent mountains and high plains on the planet. Even if my health and thus fitness was not the best (given the intense “Montezuma” that followed me since Bukhara), travelling there was an out of the world experience and it definitely shaped me to abide the brats of my daily life back home (which would piteously cry for mom, mobile phone and comfort).
I will definitely go back and do serious hiking, and some recent discussions with experienced hikers have lead to considerations if it might be possible to hike from Pakistan via Afghanistan’s Wakan Corridor (the country’s easternmost tiny corner) into Tajikistan’s Pamirs. We will see how the situation develops. At least, we have a nationality that doesn’t agitate too much.
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| On Pamir Highway - Neizatash Pass (4137 m) |
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Disclaimer:
Yes, I should write this here, although I know that the average cruise ship or nightclub or Euro Disney tourist will never ever consider to travel to the Pamirs. Mostly, they will freak out just by connecting the “-stan” in Tajikistan with Afghanistan and bombs, completely ignoring that “-stan” means country.
The Pamirs are a marvellous region - I wrote this already. But don’t expect luxury there. Well, or yes, depending on the view point – the people living there are a bigger luxury than anything else :-) They simply did not lose their identity and have not transformed into consumer monsters as most of us have, they are warm hearted, friendly and give (as opposed to always expect a service in return – only a smile).
Electricity is rare, so don’t expect to load up batteries all and everywhere or hot water or showers all over. Cars do work, but in another dimension. Often, stops are inevitable, when the radiators overheat and have to cool down for a while.
So if you plan to go, know where you are going and don’t cry for mom if it does not turn out to be the comfortable Alps or any other “industrialised” mountain region.
Oh, and Pamiri are not used to the concept of porter service, as in Nepal for example. So you have to carry the things on your back and not let others do this. Occasionally, donkeys, yaks or camels can be rented though. But consider the very much tough ground; the animals have to walk on.
And keep in mind that the Pamirs have an average altitude of 3500 m !!! If you are not used to be in higher elevations or have never been - this is not the place to try out !
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Some remarks in advance:
I will double the tips, i.e. place them under "Viloyati Mukhtori Kuhistoni Badakhshon", which is the Tajik name of the Pamir region. Most of us know it still under its Russian name Gorno Badakhshan Avtonomnaya Oblast.
I will write slowly, start with the trip description via travelogues, then add what I want to tell in tips. It will take a while, as I have realized that my impressions about my travels are constantly changing. No, not really changing, more that they re-form themselves. Some impressions I perceived as "bad", just after they happened (the "Karakul military incident" for example), but by now, weeks and months later, I only perceive or remember them as "weird".
It is difficult to describe, but maybe someone understands what I mean.
Well, let me start :-)
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| Marvellous stay in a yurt with Kyrgyz |
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Update, January 2009:
I've exchanged some weblinks only. No new tips or text.
All pictures have been taken by myself (© ID), if not marked otherwise (=no mark).
Please do not use any of them without my permission.
The same applies for my writings here.
Thanks.
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| Pros: | "One of the most beautiful country with one of the most wonderful people" | | Cons: | "Military guys, taxi drivers and smell of gas :-)" | | In A Nutshell: | "Go there, and it will change your perceptions of life and yourself and some other meanings" |
Trekki's Tajikistan Travel Tips
 Trekki's Tajikistan Travelogues | | | |
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 Comments for Trekki about Tajikistan | | | | |
JohnniOmani Sun Sep 27, 2009 14:56 UTC
I am jealous :) Stunning John | lynnehamman Tue Sep 1, 2009 15:22 UTC
I shall probably never be lucky enough to see the Pamirs, Reading your excellent page & tips has given me a dream. I once saw a doco about that highest Botanical Garden. It looked magnificent. I shall continue my tour of General tips soon. Thanks Ingrid. | hindu1936 Sun May 17, 2009 16:34 UTC
The descriptions make a person want to jump on his bike and leave NOW. thanks for such good information. | Nemorino Wed Mar 11, 2009 14:08 UTC
Me again, checking back to read the updates and new tips that you have added to this page since November 4, 2007. Your tips are comprehensive, authoritative and thoughtful, for example the ones about changing perceptions and understanding Islamic beliefs. |
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