Tips 1 - 10 of 27 London Things to Do
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Who can’t do anything with Monty Phyton, please kindly skip this tip as it would not mean the slightest thing to you. Who can, please feel free to continue reading and please listen to the links I added (I hope they stay on youtube, as they seem to be official ones) :-)
Yes – I have added this intentionally as to-do tip as opposed to nightlife, where it might belong to, but: for all of you Monty Phython’s fans out there in the world, I would not only recommend to go and see it while you are in London, but even say go on a pilgrimage to London just to see Spamalot, the musical. Of course you might say that it is a hard if almost impossible task to transform their original humour and spirit into a musical without having at least one of them on stage. But Eric Idle wrote book, lyrics and music and John Cleese is with us as he lends god his voice. When I realised that Spamalot is running in London’s Palace Theatre I knew I MUST see this and was happy that Sarah and Chris wanted to join me. Thanks to Chris for booking the tickets for fantastic seats in the Grand Circle (£ 40). Of course I was a bit sceptical as of how I would perceive it given that I adore the movie – but to bring it to a point: I would go again and again and again. So, Spamalot is based on Monty Python and the Holy Grail, but contains also parts of the Dead Parrot, the Lumberjack and the famous song from Life of Brian. And it follows the movie sequence pretty close – even the famous opening which is hijacked several times by trouble making crewmembers who add subtitles for the Vikings and mention the bad møøse that bite their sister lately is featuring as the opening song – or möösical – with reference to the Fish Slapping Dance of the Flying Circus. And also the other ones like the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch, the Killer Rabbit, the Black Knight (“let’s call it a draw”), Bring Out the Dead, Tim the Enchanter and the famous French Taunts and the flying cow are there! In addition to the movie they have introduced the Lady of the Lake (well, she is mentioned in the film but appears as a person on stage) and her Laker Girls. This is especially funny, as anytime she appears, the musical burlesques the typical musicals and you will immediately realise that the songs then get very much “Andrew Lloyd Webberish”. Edit, August 15, 2008: I found the "Finland opening" on youtube, but I am not sure if it will stay on youtube or has to be removed. But as long as it is there - look and... have many tissue paper for the tears that shoot right from your eyes: Finland
Now what can I say more then - GO!
If you are still sceptical, please read what Wikipedia writes (very interesting article) or listen to some youtube videos: London Opening including the old crew as visitors AND the opening möösical (although only as sound, not the actual dance), London cast rehearsal with Tim Curry as King Arthur and almost the complete “Not Yet Dead” scene, Australia TV introduction with many backstage information.
Currently, Sanjeev Bhaskar is King Arthur (photo 1).
GO NOW, as according to Wikipedia, Spamalot willl terminate in London January 3, 2009. But at least I’ve read that it will be running in the Musical Dome, Cologne from January 2009 on. Hurray!! Well, erm... nice, as they... one cannot believe it... perform it... in German :-(( (idiots... none of any Monty Python sketches, movies or this möösical is translatable into any other language but British).
Performances in the Palace Theatre are Monday to Thursday at 8 pm, Friday at 5:15 and 8:30 p.m. and Saturday at 3 and 8 p.m.
Oh and I especially loved the devotional things which were on sale, lovingly called “The Olde Rippey Offey Shoppe” (see photo 3) where you can buy almost everything, included the Killer Rabbit (15 £ for the one in photo 2 and 10 £ for the one in Sarah's photo 5) and the cow as stress reliever toy (photo 4, 5 £). The cow in the photo lives now in my home and we have named her Ethelbertée (thanks Christine.j. for this splendid suggestion).
One note on the side which I didn’t know before, but isn’t all life long learning? The use of the word spam for… well, what we use it for today, is originated in Monty Phyton’s Spam sketch, referring to the famous US origin canned processed meat. No need to mention that a can of Spam also sneaks into the musical and can be bought as devotionalia, with stinkin’ French garlic of course (see where the Killer Rabbit sits on in my photo).
PS: I found a review on Ciao Shopping Intelligence which is fantastic and funny to read: Spamalot review
Oh my, how grateful I am for the 10.000 characters..... lol
Coordinates on GoogleEarth: 51°30’47,63’’N; 00°07’46,42’’W
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Address: Palace Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, London
Directions: Palace Theatre is at the Cambridge Circus on Charing Cross Road. Tube station: Leicester Square (Northern or Piccadilly Line), just walk north until it appears on your left.
Website: http://www.montypythonsspamalot.com/
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Things To Do: Pub signs, perfect English lessons for kids
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Although I don’t have kids I would imagine that pub signs hunting might be fun for kids to learn English, or at least some words. Now pub signs are art as well, and I am sure that many of us reall love to walk around British cities and villages and look for the most funny ones. I always loved them and thought that at a point in time I would like to travel all over Great Britain, take photos of every sign possible and publish a book. But that’s already done by someone else, maybe even by more than only one :-) When I looked up “pub” in Wikipedia, I found a very interesting quote as of why they have been made in the first place. It is said that, in 1393, Richard II has passed a law saying “Whosoever shall brew ale in the town with the intention of selling it must hang out a sign, otherwise he shall forfeit his ale”. And it also mentions that William Shakespeare’s father was one of the inspectors who would pass by, look for pub signs, enter and inspect the quality of the ales. And as the majority of people these days could not read, it was most logical to visualise a name through a painting, similar as it was done with pharmacies. Many names derive from hunting and sports, such as fighting cocks or hounds (as in Fox and Hounds, Chiswick, photo 2). Others have maritime themes as the Ship Tavern (main photo, in Gate Street, near Lincoln Fields) and The Anchor (photo 5, London, Southwark). And other names are extremely funny such as the one in photo 4: The Shaven Crown in Shipton-under-Wychwood, Oxfordshire. While my photo shows the monk’s back “crown”, you might like to visit Oxfordshire (by Sarah) to see his front in the restaurant section.
There are certainly countless of other pubs with funny names and it should be fun to just devote one full day to pub sign hunting while in London. If you want to find the ones in my photos and combine hunting with beer sampling, here are the links: The Ship Tavern (London, Holborn), The Dove (Hammersmith), The Anchor (London, Southwark), The Shaven Crown (Shipton-under-Wychwood, Oxfordshire). Sadly, the Fox & Hounds is closed now.
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Address: (all over in London)
Website: http://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/PubSigns.htm
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London’s world famous tube alone is worth many tips which don’t deal at all with its main purpose, the transport. One of them certainly is some of the tube signs which lead us down under the ground of London. The tube is the oldest underground railway in the world with its first train (steam locomotive) operating January 10, 1863 between Paddington and Farringdon as Metropolitan Railway. The network was subsequently expanded, first by several private and independent companies and only 1933 all merged to form “London Transport”. Many of the old stations are still in use and many of the old signs are still there and blend perfectly into London’s magnificent mix of architecture. The main architects (amongst others) of the old days’ stations were Leslie Green and Charles Holden. Leslie Green was famous for the dark red glossy tilework and the bowlike windows of his stations’ façades, like Russell Square (photo 4, opened in 1906). Wikipedia has a whole list of the stations which were designed by him. London Transport Museum’s shop also sells a book about him and his stations. The other one, however lesser noticed architect was Charles Holden, but maybe as he has designed also other than tube station buildings.
It is fascination to tour through London and look for these old stations (even if I realised only at the end of my 2 weeks trip that I should have devoted more time for exploration). The one I found most fascinating was South Kensington Station, exit Old Brompton Road (photo 3) with its wrought iron design. It still has the old sign for Metropolitan & District Lines (photo 2), which was the second line to operate in London in 1868. And I also loved my “home base” station Turnham Green (opened 1877), west of London (District and Piccadilly Line stop here), as it still has the old wood carved roofs at the platform (photo 5). The ones at Turnham Green are painted white and blue, as they are at the next one to the east, Stamford Brook. Ravenscourt Park’s roofs, the station further to the east, is painted white and orange. I sat at the platform quite often and imagined how it would have been at the early days of tube operation. The scenery would have been similar, only replace us modern dressed passengers with the old style ones :-) I also loved the sign leading underground next to Houses of Parliament (main photo). It looks so cute with the spire on top. This, by the way, is the entrance to Westminster Station which is closest to the very much stylish loos (tip yet to be written under local customs).
If you are interested in the development of London’t underground, I can highly recommend to visit Doug Rose’s website, a fascinating and detailed one with emphasis on the Leslie green’s tilework inside the platforms. If you scroll down in the left side navigation, there is a menu “Journey through time”, which has animated maps with the tube lines for each year starting 1863.
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Address: (all over in London)
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Things To Do: Tube art hunting (underground)
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As fascinating the overground architecture and design of London’s underground is as magnificent is its underground. Many of Leslie Green’s stations (see previous tip) have similar design, for example the Edwardian tile patterns, Douglas Rose describes in detail on his website. But there is more, almost every station within Inner London has wonderful tiling, mostly following the station’s name. Douglas Rose describes it as “probably the largest single creation of decorative art on public display anywhere” and I fully second that. Marble Arch for example (main photo) with a tiled arch, Piccadilly shows Eros (photo 2) in the yellow tiles directly at the bottom of the escalators, Bank has the griffin, the City’s symbol, surrounding the sign. There are more, but sadly I didn’t get off at some stations just to take photos. But next time I will do so. Oh and the tube sign, this oh so famous roundel, the symbol of the tube, one of London’s most famous icons and present on almost every devotional articles one can buy in the fantastic shop of London’s Transport Museum (and elsewhere, but I recommend the shop, as it has the best variety). It is fascinating to read the history of this lovely red circle with the blue bar on London’s Transport Museum website. It was designed already in 1908, thus celebrating 100 years in 2008, but was modified several times. Over the years, all London transport adapted it, albeit in different colours. Underground still has the classic colours (red circle and blue bar), while buses have red circle and red bar. DLR (Docklands Light Railway, not exactly belonging to London Underground) has its characteristic turquoise circle and the classic blue bar. But that’s not all the art to look for under London’s ground. There are constant new installmenst of artists in the many stations. Transport for London has parts of their website entirely devoted to Art on the Underground. I even found out later back home that a poster I was looking at several times during my travels in Piccadilly Line is part of this art: Nils Norman and his Fantasy Art. For a nice phototour of some stations look here: London’s underground stations.
And last but not least, I would like to draw your attention to a special artwork with themes the roundel, seen in London’t Transport Museum: look at photo 5. This is a collage which has been made with items lost and never reclaimed by passengers in the trains. Isn’t it fantastic?
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Address: (all over "under" London)
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Things To Do: Lamppost hunting all over London
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Ever since I was in London for the first time, ages ago, I fell in love with these lamp posts (or better the base or pedestal?). I just love the contrast between the dark shiny black base and the colourful red and gold decorations. And anytime I come back I am happy to see that they are still there and even taken good care of. The colours are always shiny :-) There are many kinds of pedestal decoration or emblems, but the most prominent ones are the one for City of Westminster (photo 1 and 2) with the famous chained porticullis, part of Westminster’s coat of arms. The ones in my photos are in Fleet Street, just outside of Royal Court of Justice and, in addition to the Griffin on top of the Temple Bar, are a good guidance to where City of Westminster ends and The City starts (or tell you in which part of London you are). Similar designed lamp posts (photos 3 and 4) are along Victoria Embankment, west of Temple area with golden fish and red roses. The last photo was taken outside of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, and I was amazed to see that 1997 is embossed on it. It should stand for the year of manufacturing or erecting and this means that there is indeed the idea to keep up old among new.
Given their bright red colour, these lamp posts are very much photogenic, especially if you wait a while until another famous red London icon comes passing by (as in photo 2).
There are more lamp posts of other design, for example along Albert Embankment, around Houses of Parliament, in front of Westminster Abbey – well, all over London.
I failed to find out though when this kind of lamps have been erected first and who is responsible for this fantastic design. If anyone could shed light into this, I would be more than grateful.
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Address: (all over in London)
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Things To Do: Street lamp hunting all over London
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But not only the street lamps’ pedestals are worth a closer look, it is also the lamps themselves which are of outstanding beauty. I couldn’t get enough of the ones in front of House of Lords, which not only look nice but also give a wonderful photo opportunity for “rows” (photo 1). Here I took many photos of all angles, but this one turned out to be the best and I would like to thank the security officer in front of Sovereign entrance for letting me walk past the barrier for this shot. Other beautiful lamps are at very prominent places, such as the one in photo 2. These are lined around the circle in front of Buckingham Palace/Victoria Monument and along The Mall – like an armada of ships sailing away out into the world, symbolising the Kingdom’s naval power. Another set of Royal lamps with the little crown on top are in the gardens of Buckingham Palace (photo 5) and around the House of Commons’s part of Houses of Parliament. Some lamps are tucked away in streets behind famous London sights, like the one in photo 3 in front of Bow Street Police Station, seat of the first established London Police and, according to the website, the place where the criminal case of Crippen was held. It is in Covent Garden, behind the Royal Opera House. Maybe my most favourite lamp is the one in photo 4, which is in the tiny garden of St. Paul’s Church at Covent Garden (not the famous St. Paul’s Cathedral!!). This garden with its many wooden benches is a lovely retreat from the hustling and bustling of Covent Garden mania and the flowers already took over their space by winding around the lamps.
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Address: (all over in London)
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Things To Do: Old street sign hunting all over London
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It all started on the first day of my 2 weeks in London (2008) that I became somehow obsessed with these old street signs. I had just finished the London Walk tour “Legal London” through the Inns of Court at Royal Court of Justice and after having taken tons of photos of these lamp posts my next “object of desire” was the court’s beautiful clock. I stood on the other side of the street and while I was waiting for some crowds of people passing by, looked around and saw it – the sign for Fleet Street made of pink sandstone (photo 1). It is high above on the house at the corner of Fleet Street and Chancery Lane and simply marvellous. The whole corner house has wonderful ornaments and decoration by the way, such as griffins and a little statue of a boy, although I failed so far to find more information about the dates. Well, this was the first sign I found and so I was looking for more of them during my walks through London. Behind Westminster Abbey or Dean’s Yard, to be precise, I found a whole collection of magnificent signs and houses. One is Orchard House at the corner of Great Smith Street and Abbey Orchard Street (photo 2), and next to it the former Westminster Library. Sarah (@toonsarah) told me that one of the best Indian restaurants, Cinnamon Club, is located here. Abbey Orchard Street got its name from the former orchard of Westminster Abbey, by the way. And in Bill Firth’s article at GLIAS website I’ve read that the frieze was designed by sculptor William Neatby who also made the tilework in Harrods’ foodhall. Another wonderful set of old signs I found in Davies Street and Brown Hart Garden, south of Bond Street tube station, photo 4 of John Boldings & Son, a former manufacturer of sanitary appliances.
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Address: (all over in London)
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I am very much grateful to Andrew Duncan for having devoted one chapter of his “Secret London” book to the livery companies in London, which made me want to spend an entire day in The City and look for as many of their buildings as possible (together with a visit at the Museum of London).
Livery Companies are very unique to London, to the City of London to be precise. This is the London (Great Britain?) specific term for guilds and from what I have read it is more of a fraternity, as it involves a high degree of social commitment for their members. But that’s something I shall describe in the local customs section. Here I want to concentrate on and motivate you to walk around the City in search of the magnificent livery buildings.
According to Andrew Duncan, London has 108 livery companies, of which 36 still have the traditional halls, huge rooms, originally meant to feed their members, but still in use now for banquets and gatherings. Almost every livery building is not accessible for the usual visitor, however there are exceptions. But already the buildings are well worth to admire them from the outside. And it is fun to look at the coat of arms at the outside and try to find out how it came into being. Andrew Duncan’s book has a map with exact location of the 36 halls, and I highly recommend to buy his book, but if you cannot get hold of it before you go to London, Wikipedia has also a list of all 108 and you might take note of their adresses already. I found eight but my most favourite was the Cutlers’ Hall (photo 1 and 5) with a magnificent terracotta frieze on the façade.
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Address: London, City (all over in the City)
Website: http://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/Corporation/LGNL_Services/Leisure_and_culture/Local_history_and_heritage/Livery/linklist.htm
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Undoubtly THE most famous icon of London is the red bus. The most famous of all, the Routemaster has sadly been removed from the daily transport, however upon heavy protest by locals and tourists, Transport for London has decided to keep two heritage routes alive so that this one will never vanish from London’s cityscape. But the other double-decker buses are also red and to be honest, for photos it does not really matter if the bus is a routemaster or not, does it? I had a lot of fun in searching for spots everywhere in London where a red bus just would fit perfectly into the picture. Albert Embankment is such a great place for example, just down the stairs of Westminster Bridge, as there is London Eye in the background and together with these wonderful old lamp posts it makes a magnificent photo (photos 1 and 2). You don’t have to wait for long, one of them will pass by for sure. The other spot I loved was near Tower Bridge, at the water, as these red huge rivets (?) in the bridge’s suspended sections are perfectly harmonising with the bus which will soon pass. This and the blue and white colours of the suspending bridge now harmonise perfectly with sky and clouds. I think of all photos I took in London, these are my favourites. Another good idea is to look for red doors in a nice environment, like Bedford Square in photo 5 and wait until the bus passes. Here, however, it is almost impossible to wait for a non-moving bus, so photos resp. the bus might turn out blurry. Or look for a perfect spot in Fleet Street and have a red bus in the background of the lovely lamp post bases (see previous tip). Another good idea for Photoshop experts is to look for a most special motif, take a photo, transform it into black & white and recolour only the bus in red. (I have yet to find out how this works with my software).
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Address: (all over in London)
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No doubt, Big Ben is the most famous clock, erm.. bell, in the whole world. I already listened to its sound from my very early days on the planet, because my grandmother had a sideboard clock which rang quarters and hour with this characteristing ding-dong (these clocks were very famous in mid last century’s Germany and later). Maybe that’s why I always liked the sound. And I simply fell in love with the whole, clock and bell tower when I first stood in front of it 1977. No wonder that anytime I am in London, I am automatically drawn there, just to listen and make sure that it is still there. The story of Big Ben is interesting to read. George Mears, bellfounder at Whitechapel Bell Foundry, cast it in 1858 and a year later it was ringing for the first time. But, as a too heavy hammer was used to ring it, it cracked. Instead of replacing it, they just rotated it, drilled a hole above the crack and Big Ben continued its work for the kingdom. Whitechapel Bell Foundry is still exisiting, by the way, produces many bells of every size and can be visited (Saturdays at 10 am and 2 pm, entrance fee £10, only on pre-booking). Big Ben, by the way, has 4 little "sisters", the ones that chime the quarters.
I discovered to my utmost delight that UK Parliament has registered and uploaded many photos on Flickr, which are transformed into excellent slide shows on Big Ben virtual tour, with explanatory virtual visits to the ground floor and additional 7 floors within the tower. Make sure to view in fullscreen!! And make also sure to visit their site on Flickr: UK Parliament on Flickr page. The videos include Big Ben chiming 12 o’clock (01:21 min), the pendulum bob (00:11 min) and the fly fans (00.26 min) to regulate the descent of the weights. Fantastic to watch!! The 51 photos include the crack I mentioned above. Thank you, UK Parliament!! What an excellent work, as it really enables us to virtually visit the bell and the tower in every aspect. Make sure you take your time and watch all.
Oh yes, visits to the tower are possible. UK Parliament’s website describes the details. Tours are free but you must be in perfect health condition, as there is no lift, only 334 stairs to the top. It seems that only Britons can visit it, arranged through their local MP. However, I’ve read that overseas visitors might be able to arrange a visit through their embassies in London. It is definitely worth a try. The tours, by the way, lead up as high as to Aryton light, which is the famous light visible in the dark when Parliament is still at work, in place since 1885 and named after A.S. Aryton MP, the first Commissioner of works. Another fascinating story is the one of the old pennies: to regulate the clock old pennies are used. One old penny lets the clock gain 2/5 th of a second per day. Fascinating!! The tower also has a prison room, well, more of an incarceration room, where MPs could be sent when they misbehaved. Charles Bradlaugh was sent here in 1880, because as atheist he didn’t want to take the Official Oath on the bible and Emily Pankhurst, Britain’s famous feminist, as well in early 20th century.
But even if the bell is fascinating, the façade is even more so. I cannot get enough of this delicate work, Pugin and Barry realised when they designed the belltower. Don’t just look at it from far away, but take your time to discover the many details ot the top. Look at photo 4: there is a frieze of many black/green/gold coats of arms, among them the chained porticullis (symbol of the Palace of Westminster), Scotland’s thistle and Wales’ daffodil . At the four edges is the unified white-red rose of Lancaster and York and Northern Ireland’s shamrock on the top of the little spires . And the clock face itself is magnificent as well, 312 panes of opaque glass form each of the four clock faces. From UK Parliament’s photos I learned that one of these panes is movable for maintenance. And if you look closely at photo 2, indeed the pane between 6 and 7 is different in shade.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth: 51°30’02,36’’N; 00°07’28,63’’W
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Address: London, Parliament Square, SW1
Directions: Big Ben at Westminster. Tube station: Westminster (exit 3) (District, Circle, Jubilee Line).
Website: http://www.parliament.uk/about/visiting/virtualtours/bigben-tour/index.htm
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richiecdisc Sat Jun 13, 2009 18:11 UTC Just nipping in for a spot to eat & a pint at the Dickens, Funny, you were singing ABBA and a year later I was there but more into the Clash. Hey, we have a Fox & Hounds in Fort Lauderdale. The English Pub is at the very heart of England. | junecorlett Tue Apr 21, 2009 16:53 UTC Your Big Ben pic is truly stunning | pieter_jan_v Tue Apr 21, 2009 16:07 UTC Ingrid. Great tip: If one has to go…… (or if nature calls) ....... Soon ???? haha. You must have been too busy to finish this tip. PJ | evaanna Sat Feb 28, 2009 19:50 UTC Lovely page on this fantastic city, which I obviously don't know well enough. Incidentally, the first time I visited it was in 1977, just like you, Ingrid.:) Thanks for drawing our attention to the marvellous details and providing all the historical info. |
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