Speyer Things to Do Tips by Trekki Top 5 Page for this destination

Kaiserdom - climb the Towers

I know, it is quite unfair to place this as a tip for Speyer, as only once a year it can be done – nevertheless, it is a breathtaking experience:
Once a year (Heritage Day, 2nd Sunday in Spetember), the Cathedrals’ officials open the towers to the public and offer guided tours onto the very top of the church. When I was here in 2006, this was quite a crowded affair and I decided to check the crowds at the proposed last entry time (16:30). I was lucky to have not only not that much masses with me, but also a guide, who spent more time with us than with the previous groups. He was extremely knowledgeable, pictured the Cathedrals’ history in a very colorful and funny way. We could see the central nave from as high as the organists’ point (photo 1) – very much impressive ! I felt as if I could touch the huge Schraudolph paintings (photo 2), and their dimension became quite obvious from this point high above.
Then we were lead on top of the central nave’s roof, all covered by wooden planks to walk on (photo 3). This was also a very exciting moment, to be aware that I was walking on and could touch such old constructions ! We were lead to the east and continued our climbs, into the Eastern Towers for exceptional views of Speyer and it’s surroundings (photos 4 and 5).

Given the perfect weather on that Sunday, it will always be an unforgettable memory.

BTW: admission fee was 3 € (September 2006).

Update, October 2012:
Fantastic news! Speyer's officials made an announcement: the King's Hall, the room above "Paradise" is now renovated and nine additional frescoes of Schraudolph adorn the walls. Moreover, from there one can climb the southern west tower up to a viewing platform. Open though only from April to November (closed in winter).
Opening hours:
Mon - Sat: 9.00 - 17.00 Uhr (last admission: 16.00)
Sun & holidays: 12.00 - 17.00 Uhr (last admission: 16.00).
Tickets for King's Hall and tower can be purchased at the ticket centre inside the cathedral.
Prices:
adults: 6 Euro,
kids and teens until 18 and handicapped people: 3 Euro,
families with kids: 15 Euro

Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza

Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’01,82’’ N; 08°26’29,23’’ E

Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397

Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/

Kaiserdom – Plaza and Domnapf

I already mentioned that I like the Cathedral very much also for its impressive open surroundings and the wide plaza on her western side. The plaza had a special meaning during the emperor and episcopal days – it was here, where the Cathedral's immunity started; it was the frontier between the free imperial village of Speyer and the bishop's territory: each of them having their own laws. Consequently, a lot of condemned fled onto the Cathedral ground to be protected.

The Domnapf (Cathedrals’ cup) is dominating the plaza: a huge stone bowl with a capacity of 1580 liters. It was built most probably around 1294, and meant to be the bowl, which was filled with wine for the townsfolk, each time when a new bishop was elected. A brass band is embedded around it with latin words, explaining it’s meaning. Well, anytime the bowl was filled, the townsfolk raced quite vehemently to get their loads of wine – some even fell into the cup and barely escaped to drown – hicks :-)

The cup is still filled with wine, when a new bishop starts in Speyer. Or during other very special occasions, such as benefications or beatifications of people. In October 2006, this bowl was filled with wine again. This time not on the occasion of a bishop election, but…. well, read more in one of the local customs tips. And in March 2008, when the new bishop Dr. Karl-Heinz Wiesemann acceeded, it was also filled.

The bishops' palace, by the way, is just across the plaza, in the south (see photo 5). Beautiful building !

Update August 2011:
The next time the cup is being filled with water is October 2, 2011. This on the occasion of 950 years of Cathedral consecration.

Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza

Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’02,24’’ N; 08°26’28,41’’ E

Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397

Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/daten/domspeyer/seiten/bauwerkdomnapf.html

On our way to Hasenpfuhl - Nonnenbach

I was wondering if I should place this as off path, but decided not to do, as I want to show you the magic of Speyer is not necessarily only on the main street, museum or Cathedral. We walk now to the tiny old district of Hasenpfuhl (well, the translation would be rabbit puddle), which was once the district of fishermen and day workers. Even if the houses are of “newer” date now, the streets are still tiny and winding and we can find little plazas which seem to reveal the life in the older days.
We start our walk from the northern side of the Cathedral, and walk direction Sonnengasse (you can’t miss it, there is only one tiny street leading from there). It is also the daily walkway to the Cathedral of philosopher and Carmelite Edith Stein, who lived in St. Magdalenen Monastery just close by.

We pass a house on our left, Gasthaus zum Halbmond (guesthouse half moon, photo 1), which is said to be the oldest half-timbered house in Speyer. It was destroyed during the French invasion in 1689, but rebuilt in 1702 for ferryman Hans Villman and shows coat of arms, anchor and grappling hook on the door (which I learned after my visit, but will have a closer look next time).
The bridge over Nonnenbach (nuns’ creek) is dedicated to St. Nikolaus, patron saint of the fishermen and ferrymen. A rather modern bronze statue of St. Nikolaus was erected here in 1993.

The houses in Hasenpfuhl are very lovely, many of them are half-timbered ones. And it is also here where the very tiny alleys are emitting this “Italian flair” of which Speyer is famous for. Like in photo 4, where grapevine is growing in between the houses and will give a very much shady roof in summer. As you can see, people have their chairs and tables out in front of the houses – they already wait for summer and long evenings with chats and wine outside.

Last but not least I have to say that the oriel of Gasthaus zum Halbmond is at least equally nice as another one in the so famous town of Rothenburg, Feuerleinserker. Moral to that: Rothenburg isn't all of Germany's beauty :-)

Address: Speyer, northwest of the Cathedral

Directions: Walk north from the Cathedral's main portal, you'll soon see the little bridge. After the bridge, turn left.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’07,59’’ N; 08°26’33,71’’ E

Dreifaltigkeitskirche: fine wooden interior

This protestant church is a fine example of late Baroque style, and said to be unique in its regional relevance. Dreifaltigkeitskirche, Trinity Church, was built early 18th century, according to plans of master builder Johann Peter Graber. It was meant to be one of the first new churches to be constructed after the fatal destruction of Speyer during the War of the Great Alliance (when Speyer was left in ashes after that war). All interior construction and furnishing is still from these days.

The interior is magnificent, at least I never saw such a rich and special decoration before. All is made of wood, altar and organ are wonderfully carved (by Christian Dathan), with gold overlays. The ceiling is richly painted with secenes of the Old and New Testament, but I was most fascinated by the two storey gallery, which runs around the whole church’s interior, all mad of wood and richly painted as well (paintings by Johann Christian Gutbier).

Opening hours:
Wednesdays: 10:30 – 16:00, Sundays: 14:00 – 17:00 and during a guided tour organised by the tourist office.
No entrance fee, but it would be nice to leave a donation, as they will start indespensable renovation soon. Thanks :-)

In 2011, every Saturday at 11:00, organ music are given for approx. 30 minutes. The entrance is still free but again it would be nice to leave a donation, because this is meant to collect money for the organ renovation.

The little plaza in front of the church (when you turn off from Maximilianstrasse) is called G’schirrplätzl (crockery plaza), it was the part, where crockeries were sold in the old Speyer days.

Update July 2011:
New website added. And they have a nice feature on their website, a virtual 360° tour

Address: Speyer, Große Himmelsgasse

Directions: If you are walking Maximilianstrasse westward, it is on your right hand, just off the pilgrim statue.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’03,78’’ N; 08°26’21,71’’ E

Other Contact: touristinformation@stadt-speyer.

Phone: +49 - 62 32 - 14 23 92

Website: http://www.dreifaltigkeit-speyer.de/

History Museum of the Palatine - a MUST !

If you are interested in historical museums, Speyer’s History Museum of the Palatine is a M-U-S-T !.
For me, it was one of the best museums, I ever visited (followed by Mannheim’s Museum for Technics and Regional History), as the staff is very nice, helpful and extremely knowledgeable ! The museum has been recently renovated and all newly added interior is designed to host the Cathedral Treasure and several other permanent or travelling exhibitions. Excellent and intelligent display, just guaranteeing that you immerse in past time and learn to the fullest !

The permanent exhibitions of the museum:

Wine Museum:
Fascinating displays of all about wine, and the history of Palatine as a wine country. Most impressive: the oldest wine of the world, dated back to roman times of 4th century !! For more info, please check my local customs tips.

Early History of Palatine:
Very impressive old artefacts of the 1500 years before Christ, among them the famous Golden Hat of Schifferstadt of 1300 B.C and the bronze wheels of 9th century B.C. For more info, please check my local customs tips

Days of Romans and Franconians:
Artefacts and objects from the days of roman and franconian settling, also some of the so-called treasure findings, robbed objects, which have been dumped into the Rhine (as the legend says about the Nibelungen Treasure). For more info, please check my local customs tips

Cathedral Treasure:
Here, you can see the 3 huge paintings Schraudolph made for the Cathedral, but which have been removed during renovation mid 20th century. But the most impressive part of this exhibition is what was given as grave burial objects to the Salian Kings. Displayed in a very impressive style (behind transparent long white curtains, the objects illuminated and a blue light on the floor) are the burial crowns of Konrad II, Gisela, Heinrich III and Heinrich IV, as well as some parts of the cloth and hair of Gisela.
In the lower basement, you’ll see the religious objects which have accumulated during the Cathedral’s existence, and some of which are still used today. For more info, please check my special album

Opening hours: Tue - Sun, 10 - 18;
Entrance fee:
Permanent exhibitions: 4 €, kids & groups 3 €, (permanent exhibition),
Special exhibitions : 8 - 10 €, kids and groups 6-7 €, (depending on the exhibition)
Combination ticket (permanent and special exhibition): 12 €, kids & groups 9 €.
Reduced tickets for:
kids, groups, retired, handicapped and students (make sure to bring your IDs).

The museum is barrier-free and included in the Oberrheinischem Museumspaß.

Have a look at the excellent video about Historical Museum oft he Palatinate (in English)! I can't give the full link since it would destroy VTML coding. Once you have clicked the link, look for the video on the right hand side.

Address: Speyer, Domplatz

Directions: South of Cathedral Plaza.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°18’56,80’’ N; 08°26’29,46’’ E

Phone: +49 - 6232 - 13 25 0

Website: http://www.museum.speyer.de/English/Visitor_Information/hours_of_operation_entrance_fees_amp_how_to_find_us.htm

Special Exhibitions - Hist.Mus. Palatine

As mentioned before, History Museum of the Palatine hosts always special exhibitions.

This is simply to describe the ones, which are still running, separately.

Heinrich IV: - has been transferred to the permanent exhibition by now
Excellent exhibition about life and fate of Salian King Heinrich IV, who had the dispute with the church over the rights of church versus king. He was the one who went to Canossa to make peace with the pope Gregor, who had banned him.
Very exciting also a reconstruction of his head with modern techniques - that's what the display means (see picture).

The Vikings: - December 14, 2008 to July 12, 2009

Idols: - May 17, 2009 to January 17, 2010

Witches: - September 13, 2009 to April 2010

There is another exhibition announced on the museum's website, but it seems that it will turn into a permanent one. It is called regicides and is part of the Cathedral Treausre (most probably on the same floor as the story of the Salian kings is told). The exhibition is covering the murders of King Albrecht of Austria (May 1, 1308) and King Philipp of Swabia (June 21, 1208), both are buried in the Cathedral.

Opening hours: Tue - Sun: 10 - 18
Admission Fee: 8 - 10 Euro (for the special exhibitions) or 12 € for a combination ticket with entry to the permanent exhibitions as well. Full details please see my previous tip.

Update February 10, 2009:
I've removed old exhibitions.

Address: Speyer, Domplatz

Directions: Just south of Cathedral Plaza.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°18’56,80’’ N; 08°26’29,46’’ E

Phone: +49 - 6232 - 13 25 0

Another cute part of Speyer – Fish Market

For those who don’t like the busy parts of cities, I can highly recommend to leave Maximilianstraße (main street) to the northeast and walk to Fischmarkt (fish market). Like Holzmarkt (wood market), this is another old part of Speyer, signifying the importance of trading in the old days. Fish was even more important, as many people lived on fishing, given the proximity of Rhein river. We have previously met St. Nikolaus, patron saint of the fishermen, so this part of Speyer is where the fishermen lived in the past and sold her catch at what was called “forum piscinum” in ancient days. During summer, the cute fountain with a fish (by Stefan Forlers; Bathypterois longipes, as Wikipedia says; Stelzenfisch in German) brings chilling and the nearby restaurant Kutscherhaus offers refreshment and meals.

Directions:
Continue walking west from St. Magdalenen through Pistoreigasse and Holzmarkt to Fischmarkt or walk north from Maximilianstraße into Salzgasse, continue into St. Georgengasse, and there you are.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’07,73’’ N; 08°26’19,38’’ E

Address: Speyer, Fischmarkt

Directions: (see above)

Website: http://www.speyer.de/de/tourist?switch_language=en

Painter Anselm Feuerbach’s house and garden

Although I haven’t been inside this house yet (somehow it was always too late when I arrived here), it must be a fascinating one with a lovely garden and little wine pub.
The house is birthplace of Anselm Feuerbach, a famous painter of 19th century. Although he was only born here, spent his childhood here and never came back, as his father was relocating in Freiburg, the sources say that he must have been inspired for his paintings through his early home. He was educated in Düsseldorf, Paris, Antwerp and moved to Venice, Florence and Rome where he studied the art of Michelangelo and Raffael. A German art website lists paintings of Anselm Feuerbach.

The house is now a museum with over 30 original paintings, letters, books and sketches of the family. A little wine pub serves refreshments and snacks, but what I saw on the website, it must be an excellent option (they serve Flammkuchen and sheep cheese and other similar delicious meals). And it is said to be located in a wonderful baroque garden, full of roses in summer.

Opening hours (museum):
Tue-Fr: 16:00-18:00, Sat&Sun: 11:00-13:00
Guided tours only on the 1st Saturday per month.
Entrance fee: 1€, and 5€ for the guided tour.

Opening hours of the wine pub:
Mon-Thurs: from 18:00 on.

Directions:
It is a bit tucked away in Speyer’s backstreets, but easy to find. If you walk south into Roßmarktstrasse from Altpörtel and just follow this street until it changes into Allerheiligenstrasse, then you will see the house at the right hand side (photo 2) where a tiny plaza is located. See screenshot as “photo” 3.

Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°18’52,80’’N; 08°26’08,44’’E

Address: Allerheiligenstraße 9, 67346 Speyer

Directions: (see above)

Phone: +49 - (0)6232-70448

Website: http://www.feuerbachhaus.de/

St. Magdalenen and Edith Stein

When we leave the Cathedral Plaza to the north and walk across the bridge with St. Nikolaus’ statue, we arrive at the open gate to St. Magdalena monastery ground. This nun monastery of Dominican order is now a place for pilgrimage as well. It was here where St.Edith Stein lived and worked 1923 to 1931 as teacher in the adjacent school (Edith Stein school now). Edith Stein was a Polish girl, born in Wroclaw, of Jewish-Orthodox faith who converted to Catholicism in 1922. During the brainsick nazi terror she wasn’t allowed to teach any longer and finally was deported to Auschwitz, where she was murdered by the nazi slaughterers August 9, 1942. She was beatified in 1987 and canonised by Pope John Paul II October 1998. The website, I’ve linked with her name, gives interesting details of which places nearby she visited and where nearby memorials to her can be found (in Polish, English, German, French).
The monastery itself was founded in 1228, but quite often destroyed during the years of war between France and Germany. It is possible to visit the church, but please make sure to stay quiet inside, as it is a place for worship and devotion. On the website below is a nice aerial view of the monastery ground and it seems that the nuns also have a huge vegetable garden, presumably for their own use and for use in the school.

Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’10,05’’N; 08°26’34,01’’E

Address: Hasenpfuhlstraße 32, 67346 Speyer

Directions: Walk north from the cathedral across Sonnenbrücke and you reach the entrance gate.

Phone: +49 - (0) 62 32 – 2 50 81

Website: http://www.kloster-st-magdalena-speyer.de/

Magnificent stonemasons’ signatures

In case I am boring you with my enthusiasm about this most beautiful cathedral, please forgive me and skip reading this. If not, well, then I have reached my goal, got you addicted and have successfully implanted the desire to come and visit. Good :-)
In addition to the views of the cathedral’s different parts (portal, Great Paradise, inside, crypt) I would like to draw your attention to some more details on the exterior. Some of these I have discovered only recently although I have been here more than 30 times by now. But they are fascinating and somehow a kind of fingerprint or signature of the stonemasons which worked here over the years.
My favourite is what I call the “little Victorian sheep” (main photo). It is one of the four little sandstone sculptures of newer date at the western portal, between the two outer arches to be precise. The little sheep’s nose is missing, but look at the curly hair with the flowers beneath the hat. They are even at eye-level, so one cannot miss them. But nevertheless I am wondering what they mean.
The other one I liked is the dragon at the southern windows of the transept. This one is rather high in the air, but with a good lens one can get a good view of it. The window frames are also very beautifully carved, leaves and tendrils.
Then, again back at the western portal, at the main arch now, are again two sculptures on each side holding the palm leaves which form parts of the arch. One of them is a special one, he also holds a pretzel, Speyer’s beloved snack. But he and the pretzel will be subject for another tip :-)

There are more fascinating details at the exterior, see photos of the dolphon & lizzard door as well as of some more reliefs at the southern side:
album with details of cathedral's exterior

Address: Speyer, cathedral - exterior

Directions: Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’02,24’’ N; 08°26’28,41’’ E

Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/