Tips 1 - 10 of 27 Speyer Things to Do
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Things To Do: Kaiserdom – the Cathedral's outside
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Speyer's Imperial Cathedral is not only a landmark for the city, but it dominates the city and adds a very impressive atmosphere of splendour and history.
Konrad II, who dedicated her to St. Mary, started the Cathedral's construction in 1030. Its first consecration took place in 1061. She did undergo several constructing and reconstructing phases over the time, always either a result of demonstration of imperial power or rebuilding after war destruction.
The several parts of the Cathedral, as we see her today, are all of mixed building phases and reconstruction after wars. Like for many other cities in Palatinate and nearby regions, the biggest destruction was following the War of the Great Alliance, when French Sunking Louis decided to seize the land of his sister-in-law, Liselotte von der Pfalz, after her husband's death. Luckily, the Episcopal board has decided to restore its Romanesque origin, so that the overall impression is quite homogeneous and grand (see detail photo 4, yellow and reddish Palatine sand stone). I highly recommend to visit the Historical Museum of the Palatinate (department Domschatz) to learn more about these reconstructions in photos, descriptions and audio-visio boards.
Its total length is 134 m, the central nave 33 m in height; the eastern towers have 71 m and the western ones 65 m in height.
Quite interesting as a building element, a dwarf gallery is leading around the whole Cathedral, only 2,9 m in height and small in width (see photo 5). It has been built for architectonical relaxation.
The surroundings of the Cathedral is kept more or less free, so that it's monumental architecture can be absorbed even better.
As for all churches of importance, the entrance faces west, the apsis faces east, to pray to the position of the rising sun, and to let the interior be illuminated by the setting sun.
In the surrounding garden, you'll find a lot of other sights, such as the Ölberg (Mount of Olives), a collection of statues of Salian Kings and remains of the old city wall with "Heidetürmchen", a little tower east of the Cathedral.
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Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397
Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza
Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’01,89’’ N; 08°26’29,65’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/
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Things To Do: Kaiserdom – The Western Portal
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Whatever your plan is, try and visit the Cathedral through the monumental Western Portal, as this itself is very much impressive and gives an idea of the importance of the Cathedral.
The Western Portal itself is built in red and yellowish-white sandstone, which is typical for the Salian-Roman area (thanks, Mr. Hübsch, the architect who was responsible for rebuilding the portal mid of 19th century). The big rosette (photo 1) shows Christ, surrounded by the symbols of the 4 evangelists at the edges. (BTW, what you might perceive as a failure in the picture is a fine golden colored lattice laid over the rosette to keep away the pigeons).
Above the portal there are 5 statues (photo 2), which show the Cathedral's patrons St. Mary in the middle (photo 3), surrounded by Archangel Michael, Johan the Baptist, Stephanus and Bernhard of Clairvaux (who is featuring the 3 huge frescos, I mentioned in my intro), flanked by the imperial eagles. The statues are also protected with lattice against the pigeons.
And the portal itself is also worth a closer look: it consists of 6 pillars on each side, connecting with the other by different arches. And each arch is being “hold” by a different little statue. The one in photo 4 holds a palm leave.
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Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397
Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza
Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’01,82’’ N; 08°26’29,23’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/
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Things To Do: Kaiserdom – The Great Paradise
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The Western Portal, as we see it today, has been built mid 19th century by Heinrich Hübsch, and is called Grosses Paradies (Great Paradise) as a reference to the paradise through which the religious people enter their prayer hall.
In the alcoves are 8 statues of important kings and Emperors, which have their final burial place in the Cathedral's Crypt. Two additional monuments decorate the entrance hall – on the right Rudolf von Habsburg (photo 3) with the insignia orb and sword, and on the left Adolf von Nassau (photo 4), kneeling.
Compared to the hall, the entrance portal is quite new, of 1971, and shows the mysteries of Christian stories – the good herdsman and symbols of the 7 sacraments.
Don't forget to look up, the vaults are impressive as well. All are made of the same yellow and reddish Palatine sandstone as the whole western façade, this all looks to me always a bit like Italian churches. All is kept quite good in shape, I am always impressed - it might easily have been built just "yesterday".
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Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397
Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza
Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’01,82’’ N; 08°26’29,23’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/
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Things To Do: Kaiserdom – the inside
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Even if you saw pictures of the Cathedral's interior, nothing prepares you for what captures you upon entering her! The dimensions of the church leave every human diminutive. If you enter the Cathedral, note the wall's thickness – nearly 6 m !
The Cathedrals' interior is maybe also perceived that impressive, as it has almost no decorative elements on walls, pillars or capitals. Even the benches are quite simple. The only decoration are the 24 big paintings by Schraudolph (photo 2), very high in the central nave, showing scenes of St. Mary's life..
On the central naves' left side, close to the altar, you'll see a statue of St. Mary (photo 3), a copy of the original one, which was burnt by French troops in 1794. Above the Kings' Choir, an oversized replica of Konrad II's burial crown adds to the monumental feeling inside the Cathedral.
I can only highly recommend to visit the Historical Museum as well while you are in Speyer, as there the original burial crown is exhibited (together with the other Emperors’ crowns) and where the 3 huge Schraudolph paintings (formerly in the crossing) have been transferred to.
What fascinates me most in Romanesque style, is the absolute symmetry in any architectural element. This is quite obvious in the side naves' western walls (photo 5).
Opening hours:
April to Oct.: daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Nov. to March: daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.;
except during service, which is daily at 7 a.m., Tue+Fr also at 6 p.m. and Sun also at 8:30+10 a.m. and 6 p.m.
Entrance fee:
No entrance fee for the Cathedral herself, only for the crypt (see next tip).
Dress appropriately when visiting the Cathedral. Please refrain from screaming and shouting, also make sure that kids remain at low level. After all, this is a place of worship.
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Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397
Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza
Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’01,82’’ N; 08°26’29,23’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/
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Things To Do: Kaiserdom – the Crypt
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Right hand side of the main altar stairs lead down into the crypt, which is the oldest part of the Cathedral. It was finished in 1041 and is said to be the biggest portico of Europe. The atmosphere in here is even more touching (provided, you'll be here without masses, or, as when I once was there, without a club of chanters who thought to fill the crypt with their chorals. Above, in the church, I would not have mind, but in the crypt it was quite destructive to the atmosphere).
The crypt has its own altar (photo 3). In the early days of construction, it was used for prayers, as long as the naves have not been finished.
Opposite of the altar you'll enter the burial vault, at it's entrance a huge grave plate of Rudoph von Habsburg. The vault holds the graves of Salian Emperors Konrad II and his wife Gisela, of his son Heinrich III, his grandson Heinrich IV and his wife Bertha, of Heinrich V, and also of Adolf von Nassau, Rudolf von Habsburg, Beatrix, second wife of Friedrich I Barbarossa. Considering these graves – it seems as if all Holy Roman Emperor history is concentrated here. A very moving thought. And this is why on most of the graves you can still see fresh flowers, still tributes of people to the emperors (photo 1 and 2).
Another interesting thing you can see here in the crypt are the original salian days' pillars' bottoms. They have been excavated and you can see them left and right hand side of the burial places (photo 5).
If time allows - again I highly recommend to visit the Historical Museum of the Palatine, where an exhibition is devoted to the Salian Kings and their graves. They show the original crowns and other objects and explain the grave openings of early 20th century, when they had to move the graves down into the crypt.
Opening hours are the same as for the Cathedral, except that the crypt is closed 30 minutes before the Cathedral closes.
Entrance fee: 2 €. The entrance fee is a contribution to the costant restoring of the Cathedral.
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Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397
Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza
Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’01,82’’ N; 08°26’29,23’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/daten/domspeyer/seiten/bauwerkgrablege.html
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Things To Do: Kaiserdom - climb the Towers
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I know, it is quite unfair to place this as a tip for Speyer, as only once a year it can be done – nevertheless, it is a breathtaking experience:
Once a year (Heritage Day, 2nd Sunday in Spetember), the Cathedrals’ officials open the towers to the public and offer guided tours onto the very top of the church. When I was here in 2006, this was quite a crowded affair and I decided to check the crowds at the proposed last entry time (16:30). I was lucky to have not only not that much masses with me, but also a guide, who spent more time with us than with the previous groups. He was extremely knowledgeable, pictured the Cathedrals’ history in a very colorful and funny way. We could see the central nave from as high as the organists’ point (photo 1) – very much impressive ! I felt as if I could touch the huge Schraudolph paintings (photo 2), and their dimension became quite obvious from this point high above.
Then we were lead on top of the central nave’s roof, all covered by wooden planks to walk on (photo 3). This was also a very exciting moment, to be aware that I was walking on and could touch such old constructions ! We were lead to the east and continued our climbs, into the Eastern Towers for exceptional views of Speyer and it’s surroundings (photos 4 and 5).
Given the perfect weather on that Sunday, it will always be an unforgettable memory.
BTW: admission fee was 3 € (September 2006).
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Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397
Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza
Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’01,82’’ N; 08°26’29,23’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/
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Things To Do: Kaiserdom – Plaza and Domnapf
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I already mentioned that I like the Cathedral very much also for its impressive open surroundings and the wide plaza on her western side. The plaza had a special meaning during the emperor and episcopal days – it was here, where the Cathedral's immunity started; it was the frontier between the free imperial village of Speyer and the bishop's territory: each of them having their own laws. Consequently, a lot of condemned fled onto the Cathedral ground to be protected.
The Domnapf (Cathedrals’ cup) is dominating the plaza: a huge stone bowl with a capacity of 1580 liters. It was built most probably around 1294, and meant to be the bowl, which was filled with wine for the townsfolk, each time when a new bishop was elected. A brass band is embedded around it with latin words, explaining it’s meaning. Well, anytime the bowl was filled, the townsfolk raced quite vehemently to get their loads of wine – some even fell into the cup and barely escaped to drown – hicks :-)
The cup is still filled with wine, when a new bishop starts in Speyer. Or during other very special occasions, such as benefications or beatifications of people. In October 2006, this bowl was filled with wine again. This time not on the occasion of a bishop election, but…. well, read more in one of the local customs tips. And in March 2008, when the new bishop Dr. Karl-Heinz Wiesemann acceeded, it was also filled.
The bishops' palace, by the way, is just across the plaza, in the south (see photo 5). Beautiful building !
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Phone: +49 - 6232 - 102-397
Address: Speyer, Cathedral Plaza
Directions: Well, you can't miss it, in the east of Speyer, close to Rhine River.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’02,24’’ N; 08°26’28,41’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/daten/domspeyer/seiten/bauwerkdomnapf.html
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Things To Do: Magnificent stonemasons’ signatures
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In case I am boring you with my enthusiasm about this most beautiful cathedral, please forgive me and skip reading this. If not, well, then I have reached my goal, got you addicted and have successfully implanted the desire to come and visit. Good :-)
In addition to the views of the cathedral’s different parts (portal, Great Paradise, inside, crypt) I would like to draw your attention to some more details on the exterior. Some of these I have discovered only recently although I have been here more than 30 times by now. But they are fascinating and somehow a kind of fingerprint or signature of the stonemasons which worked here over the years.
My favourite is what I call the “little Victorian sheep” (main photo). It is one of the four little sandstone sculptures of newer date at the western portal, between the two outer arches to be precise. The little sheep’s nose is missing, but look at the curly hair with the flowers beneath the hat. They are even at eye-level, so one cannot miss them. But nevertheless I am wondering what they mean.
The other one I liked is the dragon at the southern windows of the transept. This one is rather high in the air, but with a good lens one can get a good view of it. The window frames are also very beautifully carved, leaves and tendrils.
Then, again back at the western portal, at the main arch now, are again two sculptures on each side holding the palm leaves which form parts of the arch. One of them is a special one, he also holds a pretzel, Speyer’s beloved snack. But he and the pretzel will be subject for another tip :-)
There are more fascinating details at the exterior, see photos of the dolphon & lizzard door as well as of some more reliefs at the southern side:
album with details of cathedral's exterior
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Address: Speyer, cathedral - exterior
Directions: Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’02,24’’ N; 08°26’28,41’’ E
Website: http://www.dom-speyer.de/
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Things To Do: Stadthaus – Speyer’s town house
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Let’s continue our virtual walk through Speyer’s Old Town. On the last pictures, showing Cathedral Plaza, you already might have noticed a beautiful building with a lot of flower boxes in front of the windows.
This is the Stadthaus, or town house, built around 1720 by Palatine master builder Breunig in late Baroque style. It was here, where the city fathers had residence in 18 and 19th century. Nowadays it is Speyer’s district administration.
If you continue your walk into Maximilianstrasse, you’ll see its gorgeous southern façade with beautiful sculptures and the districts’ coat of arms above the impressive main entrance portal (photo 2). The sculptures are made of sandstone and represent field work (photo 3), industry (photo 4), craftsmanship (photo 5) and education.
Update May 2008:
The façade facing the Cathedral (= the one in my main photo) is currently being renovated and scaffolded. Sorry - Euromeet VTers who will join the Speyer tour cannot see it in the full glory :-(
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Phone: +49 - 62 32 - 14 23 92
Address: Speyer, Maximilianstrasse
Directions: West of the Imperial Cathedral, just across the plaza.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
49°19’02,48’’ N; 08°26’26,82’’ E
Website: http://www.speyer.de/de/service/index?switch_language=en
Other Contact: touristinformation@stadt-speyer.
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 Comments for Trekki about Speyer | | | | |
evaanna Fri Apr 3, 2009 13:01 UTC
Fascinating page on this gorgous city. Loved it all - so ornate and lovely. The museum hides real treasures, but this Roman wine is just too much - what a waste!:) Interesting story of the statues of the Salian kings. A great page! | scottishvisitor Wed Jan 21, 2009 20:51 UTC
So many new things to see and do :) Your pictures with the summer blooms around the buildings are lovely :( What a pity I can't get to a Christmas Market for a few years yet! | tiabunna Sun Jan 11, 2009 12:02 UTC
You have added considerably to this page since my previous visit - and I don't have time to finish now. But this is a page to savour, not to rush: excellent photos and dense with information. | Zvrlj Sat Jan 10, 2009 16:52 UTC
Beautiful city. Reminded me a bit on Gdansk. Funny but we have never heard about Anselm Feuerbach, until now. And, it is so very obvious that you love Speyer :-) |
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on May 2, 2008
