Tips 1 - 10 of 40 Venice Things to Do
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Things To Do: ”My” Venezia – some remarks beforehand
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Now I have to work on the challenging task to tell you about "my" Venezia, based on the experience I accumulated during 12 days in May 2007. Well, not easy; as you might imagine I did see quite a lot. I thought back and forth what I should recommend as off path and what as things to see while there. But I came to the conclusion that I will follow my “strategy” and write for those of you VTers and the non-Eurodisney tourists who might find this through Google. This means that I will not stop my efforts to convince you that you simply must stay longer than only for one day in this magnificent city to absorb so much of her charme. It involves my plea to stay IN the city rather than outside.
So in case the Eurodisney tourist stumbles upon my Venezia descriptions – better chose another site or page. You won’t understand anything I write about, as you didn’t get the message that this city exists already since ages and has NOT been built to please your eyes.
Ok, enough now with my sarcasm about these Eurodisney tourists.
The following is only for those of you who would like to know more about the city without racing through. Consequently, I will describe much of the places I’ve been in the to-do section, and not in off path. I will write the sequences according to the walks I did, starting with the islands, then the lesser known sestiere and end with the sights around Piazza San Marco.
Off path is reserved for the special sights, which are related to either the books or some movies; mainly the Commissario Brunetti book and TV series and the movie “Don’t look now”. Plus some other odd sights I came across.
I will continue using the Veneziano or Italian words for places. Imagine if your name would be John but I kept adressing you as Hans (= John in my laguage)? You would be annoyed. It also makes it easier to find locations, as, even if the city is very much tourist oriented (what else, given the masses of us invading her per year), the language is still Italian, modified to the local Veneziano dialect.
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If you are planning to stay in Venezia for a couple of days, a visit to the laguna and the islands is a must. But even in one day it is not possible to see much of the islands. I recommend minimum 2 days or more, especially if you like wildlife watching.
Venezia’s laguna is a very fragile ecosystem, with countless smaller and bigger islands (see website below, and then lagoon of Venice/islands). The site says that the islands make up only for 8% of the laguna’s surface, so you can imagine how much is left for marshland, thus wildlife.
The most important islands to visit are definitely Murano (for the glass), Burano (for the colours), Torcello (for the very old past of the area) and San Michele (the city’s graveyard). But there are others, such as Sant’Erasmo (one of the laguna’s farm island), or San Lazaro degli Armeni (Mechitarist monastery), Lazaretto Nuovo (the former quarantine island for victims of pestilence), San Francesco del Deserto (a Franciscan monastery) and not to forget the outer islands like Lido and Pellestrina for sunbathing and swimming.
For wildlife lovers, the laguna is also a paradise ! I was amazed myself to see how abundant flora and fauna are. Check the website below – lagoon of Venice/fauna and vegetation.
At the moment, I can only tell about Murano, Torcello, Burano and San Michele (but will visit more on my next trips). If you like to know more about the other islands, check Sandy’s travel list. She has visited almost every island.
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Directions: Venezia's extended boat schedule shows you how to get to the desired island(s). Check with ACTV – boat lines
Website: http://www.salve.it/uk/default.htm
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If you intend to buy fabulous Murano glassware, you should go directly to the island and look, instead of being taken in in a shop around the neuralgic and touristy spots in San Marco. These might sell you Chinese crap for Made in Murano. Now Venezia does a lot to demolish the dealers that dare to do this and destroy the reputation (see what I wrote in the tourist trap section). But to make sure to buy genuine work, it is better to buy directly from the manufacturers. The real work has a logo Vetro Artistico Murano (check the website given below) and is not cheap of course.
In addition, I highly recommend to visit Murano’s glass museum Museo del Vetro, as here you can learn about the process of glass making and appreciate the work behind the finished products (and understand why they are not that cheap as the Chinese crap). Entrance fee is 5,50 € in case you don’t have the Venice Card Orange (in which it is included).
But the very best is a tour through one of the glass factories. You simply go into a shop and ask for the factory. All of them are prepared to let you see the maestros at work. Don’t forget to leave a small donation for the guys in the box. I am not sure if their wages are really calculated based upon how much their work is finally sold for.
There is no real need to follow the touts that want to sell you a trip to the island and a factory tour. Vaporettos leave every 15 minutes from Fondamenta Nuove; take the circle line 41/42, which also stops at La Zaccaria, in case you stay in sestiere San Marco.
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Website: http://www.muranoglass.com/
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Burano island is something for heart and soul. The old fishermens’ island is approximately 45 minutes to Venezia’s west, just next to Torcello. Every house is painted in a different colour. There is almost no colour possible that is not represented there. Together, this makes a magnificent mix of colours – just a feast for the eye. Try and don’t race through the village. It is worthwile to wander through the streets, take in these colours and the atmosphere. In the backstreets and canales, there are lovely options for reflection photos. Yes, make sure to take lots of film or cards and batteries.
In addition, you can visit the lace museum Museo de Merletti, learn about the skilfull art of lace making. It is open daily except Tuesdays, entry fee is 4 € in case you don’t have the Venice Card Orange (in which it is included). You can also buy lace here, but as for glass, it is not cheap. I learned that a table cloth of typical size would need 3 years, made by 10 embroiders. So calculate this before you go. The cheap stuff sold on the island is most probably also Chinese crap, but it is not yet that much condemned by Venezia’s officials – maybe as Burano is a bit more out in the lagoon.
And there is chiesa San Martino, with a very much crooked belltower and a Tiepolo painting inside.
It is easy to get there. Vaporetto line LN (Laguna Norte) leaves every half hour from Fondamenta Nuove (every 10 min and 40 min past the hour). I described more about how to get there, the boat trip itself and the island of course on my Burano page, of which I have added the link below.
You can combine Burano with a trip to Torcello.
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Website: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/80c21/25db7/
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If you are interested in history, visiting the island of Torcello is a must. It is situated just next to Burano, in the very northeastern end of the lagoon, accessible by vaporetto line LN and changing boats in Burano.
Visiting this island will draw you back in the days of early lagoon settlement, as it was the centre and seat of the bishop until end of 12th century.
Basilica Santa Maria Assunta (photo 5), has been built in 640 and later on expanded. It is most famous for the very much splendid Byzantine mosaics of Maria and apostles and the Last Judgement. Next to her is Santa Fosca of 12th century (photo 4). This one is not as decorated inside, but has a very cheerful atmosphere inside, with little Byzantine or oriental lamps burning.
But the island has many more treasures. Opposite of the churches is a little house with a very much picturesque gaden with mossy statues (like in the main photo), and a small vineyard.
Go up the campanile for a magnificent view over this part of the lagoon and feel how very quiet the life here is. You can also visit the small museum, although I cannot judge, as I was already satisfied to look at all the stones, gravestones, pillars and capitals in the courtyard.
Admission fee for Basilica, museum and campanile are each 3 €. Combination tickets for two of them is 5,50 € and for all three 8,50 €. They open at 10:30 and close at 5:30 p.m. (last entry is at 5 p.m.)
A visit to Torcello can easily combined with a visit to Burano. But try and get there as early as possible, when it is still quiet and no squeaking kids are jumping around. Torcello seems to be quite popular for foreign school classes.
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Website: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/e376/22931/
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If only more countries would have such colourful graveyards as Italy – the deceased would be way more happy ! San Michele is no exception. The island was inhabited by Camaldolese monks until early 19th century. It is used as Venezia’s graveyard only since 1837, when the officials have decided to no longer risk possible contamination of the city’s drinking water. It is currently extended in the east.
The graveyard is divided into several section, according to the type of graves and the religious beliefs. Most of the island is coveres by “normal” graves with gravestones, flowers and very much elaborate statues. The typical Italian ones, as in the main photo and photo 2 are in the northeastern section. And it seems that the most popular graves to visit are the ones of Strawinsky and his wife and Ezra Pound. They are in the east as well, just follow the signs.
What I really liked on San Michele is that it seems “little Venezia” – so many building styles, ornaments and decoration are similar to the ones in Centro Storico, like the little chapels (one of them in photo 4, which I used to call “Miracoli style”), or Byzantine type mosaics for little mausoleums. The eastern grave sections also have many of these mossy statues – giving the whole a very much enchanted atmosphere.
I was there in the afternoon, but I imagine that all would be even more enchanted 1-2 hours before sunset.
Getting to San Michele is easy. Vaporettos with direction Murano leave from Fondamenta Nuove almost every 10-15 minutes.
Sandy has made a separate page for San Michele - see link below.
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Address: Isola San Michele - north of Centro Storico
Directions: Take a vaporetoo from Fondamenta Nuove; the ones that leave for Murano.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
45°26’ N; 12°20’ E
Website: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/e376/23143/
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As I already said before, I write about my tours through Venezia not for the ones who plant to visit the city once and race through the neuralgic spots, but for those of you who take their time, want to see more of the charming spots and intend to come back one day. Or simply for those who want to read about the many treasures La Serenissima holds.
I start with sestiere Canaregio and add the sestiere’s sights here, independently if they are campos, churches or bridges. For an overview of some walks around this part of Venezia, I made a screenshot of GoogleMaps and marked the walks or boat tours blue. In addition, I made screenshots of details via GoogleEarth; arrows mark the sights that are closer together – to give you an idea how far they are from each other.
Canaregio is one of my two favourite sestiere. As many locals live here, it has a very much vivid atmosphere, the shops, bars and restaurants are frequented mostly by locals, unless the occasional visitor ends up here. This makes the price levels way lower than in the neuralgic areas of course. I only wish that it will keep this way, and that Canaregio won’t suffer a fate like San Marco and San Polo, where a lot of the famous locals’ shops are gone now, replaced by just another crappy souvenir shop with stuff Made in China.
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Address: Venezia's north
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Even if you don’t have the time to stroll through Canaregio’s backstreets, a tour with vaporetto No. 41/42 or 51/52 will give you an idea of the lightness that lies over this area. These boats go along the Canale di Canaregio, which is the biggest canale of the city (well, apart from Canal Grande of course). As soon as the boat turns into the canale, the first bridge is already a nice view: Ponte delle Guglie (photo 3). The name derives from the four obeliscs in each corner (la guglia – spire). Note also the many grimacing stoneheads on the bridge’s side. The boat has a stop here, so you can easily hop off, wander around and take the next boat to continue driving along the canal. This would also be the boat stop if you want to visit Venezia’s Ghetto (see what Sandy and Christine wrote about the Ghetto area). The next stop is at Ponte dei Tre Archi (photo 1) – the only bridge in Venezia with 3 arches. In late afternoon it also makes up for good photos.
From here, you can either continue your trip on the boat around the northwest of Canaregio (although it is not the most beautiful area, quite rugged in fact) or back to Canal Grande. On the other hand, the next boat stop will be St. Alvise or Madonna dell’Orto, which saves some walking, if you intend to visit these churches.
To follow my walks, you should take the boat back into Canal Grande and get off at Ca D’Oro and then into Strada Nova (westwards).
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Address: Canaregio - in Venezia's northwest
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In addition to Canale di Canaregio, 3 other smaller canales run parallel to each other in a more or less east-west direction. Of these, Fondamenta della Misericordia is nice to stroll along. Many bars and restaurants line up here, and having a seat and sipping prosecco or Spritz is a lovely pastime. Prices are reasonable – as this area is not yet overflown with tourists.
Walking west and then turn north would bring you to Campo dei Mori, Tintoretto’s house and Madonna dell’Orto (next 3 tips). Walking south will bring you to Campo Marziale and Santa Fosca (4th tip down) and back to Strada Nova if you like. Walking east and then turn north will bring you to a very enchanted part of Canaregio with an old gondola dock (5th tip from here) and walking straight east will bring you to the famous bridge without parapets (6th tip from here) and further on in Canaregio’s east.
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Address: Canaregio's middle
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One of the reasons that Venezia got so powerful was their extensive trade with the East – spices and silk and all. Surely Marco Polo is the best known Veneziano trader of these days, as he wrote the books about his travels along the silk road. But there have been more traders, one of them being the Mastelli family of Greek origin (they came from Morea – Medieval name of what we call Peleponnes today, thus the name “Mori”). Three traders of the family are immortalised in the façade: Rioba, Sandi and Afani Mastelli (photo 5 – all of them). I don’t know which one is Sandi and Afani (in photos 2 and 4), but Rioba is the one you’ll recognise immediately when you approach this house: he is the one with the iron nose. It is said that this was the place where Venezianos could put their complaints about the republic. Obviously, some people were not satisfied with laws and events those days – at a point in time, Rioba must have been beheaded and punched in his nose. The nose is gone, replaced with an iron one, and his head is hold in place by some iron struttings.
There is a fourth statue right hand side of Rioba (photo 1). First I thought it would belong to Tintoretto’s house, but then I have read that it seems to be one of the loyal servants of the Mastelli family.
I have read that they all were colourfully painted in the past. The paint is faded by now, but the stone carvings are still there.
On the back side of the Palazzo Mastelli must be a beautiful relief with a camel, also showing their power in trading with the East. I did miss it, but Sandy found it :-)
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Address: Canaregio's middle
Directions: Vaporetto stop Madonna dell’Orto (line 41/42 or 51/52) would be the shortest. Walk straight south and cross one bridge (over Rio Madonna dell’Orto).
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
45°26’43,07’’ N; 12°19’55,86’’ E
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Destinations near Venice- La Giudecca, 0.78 km / 0.48 miles
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 Comments for Trekki about Venice | | | | |
deecat Sat May 2, 2009 12:25 UTC
You are incredible..words escape me to describe my respect for these pages. Another Donna Leon reader, Hurrah! I'll e-mail my thoughts on this best of the best on VT! | gilabrand Tue Feb 24, 2009 06:53 UTC
That "thank you" to your camera is well deserved! | junecorlett Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:54 UTC
Nice tips, amd your pictures are beautiful. | hunterV Tue Dec 2, 2008 07:40 UTC
Hello, Ingrid! Wonderful destination, I began to fall in love with it myself! Thanx! |
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