"Birstonas - a spa on the Neman River" Birstonas by evaanna

Birstonas Travel Guide: 45 reviews and 100 photos

Fountain in the park

First mentioned in the chronicles of the Teutonic Knights in 1388 and described as the 'farmstead at the salty waters', Birstonas used to host many Lithuanian and Polish dukes and kings who came there to hunt in the mighty forests on the banks of the Neman (Lith. Nemunas) River. In those days, the place boasted a wooden castle at the top of Birstonas or Vytautas Mound on the sheer bank of the Neman.
The town, which was granted its charter in 1529, became a spa in 1846, when the healing properties of its springs were discovered by doctor Benediktas Balinskis. At the end of 1854, after long deliberations and bureaucratic procedures, the Russian Minister of Internal Affairs signed permission to give Birstonas the status of resort. In the 60's of the 19th century it was already well-known all over the Russian Empire. Before WWI the place had 72 healing baths and 3 hotels.
The town suffered enormous losses during WWI and might have fallen into oblivion be it not for the Lithuanian Red Cross, which modernized the resort, constructed some mud baths, took care of sewerage and water supply and even set up regular bus services from Birstonas to Kaunas and Alytus.
WWII largely spared the town so that the spa could resume its functions as soon as it was over. It was here that in 1945 the Lithuanian poet and playwright Balys Sruoga was being treated after his stay in the Stutthof concentration camp.

Lovely wooden houses in a side street

Today Birstonas is a pleasant clean town with a number of sanatoriums scattered in the old shady park. Situated in a loop of the meandering Neman, it is embraced by the river from three sides so you are not likely to miss it.
There is just one thing there that we couldn't understand. We visited the place on a warm early afternoon in August, when we would expect lots of visitors strolling on the promenade, but there were very few. The town looked almost deserted. Just a few youngsters going to the swimming pool or the gym, not more than ten people walking along and that was all. I suppose the patients of the sanatoriums may have been undergoing treatment but what about the other tourists? There were no snack bars or ice cream parlours that you would expect in such a place, which was obviously good for those who had come to the sanatoriums to treat obesity, but we soon got hungry and thirsty. We found a single pizzeria, where nothing was served except pizzas and beer. We don't eat pizza and my husband was driving so it was not for us. In the end we noticed two children with ice creams going out of a grocery shop so we had one each too, and it was delicious, just like the ice cream I used to have in St Petersburg (then Leningrad) almost 40 years ago.
And one more thing, there were hardly any signposts there (well, there was one to the toilets) and any (rare) descriptions of places were in Lithuanian, very few in Russian, none in English or any other language. In most European towns we have been to, you are attacked from all sides by information. Here you could enjoy a rest from it all. It was like returning to the pre-internet days, with all their charm and unexpected discoveries. Not a bad feeling, I can tell you.
On our way back we came across a platform high above the Neman, where you could enjoy the fantastic panorama of the river and the forest. Our day trip would have been worthwhile just for that.

Last visit to Birstonas: Aug 2009
Intro Updated Sep 11, 2009
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Reviews (14)

Vytautas the Great's Statue and Hill Things to Do (10)

As you walk along the Neman embankment, you will see a statue of a knight on a horse done in pink granite. This is a... more travel advice

The Neman from a bridge at Prienai nr Birstonas - Birstonas

How to get to Birstonas by public... Transportation (1)

We went to Birstonas by car, staying as we did in a Polish village near the Lithuanian border, but if you have to rely... more travel advice

Children's painting in Birstonas park - Birstonas

Children's wall paintings in the park Favorites (2)

I don't generally like graffiti. They deface the walls of houses of so many cities and removing them repeatedly is not... more travel advice

Fountain with statue of girl - Birstonas

Fountain in the park and other... Things to Do (10)

Birstonas boasts a number of interesting sculptures, the earliest of which is the bust of Jonas Basanavicius, a... more travel advice

Off The Beaten Path (1)
Church of St Apostles Peter and Paul at...

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Travelogues (1)

Written Aug 25, 2009

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The neo-Gothic wooden church at Nemajunai

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Comments (12)

LoriPori Sep 21, 2009 at 10:33 AM Report Abuse

What a peaceful and serene place to visit. The boat trip along the Neman looks interesting.
Pawtuxet Sep 13, 2009 at 4:00 PM Report Abuse

Looks like a great spot for a lazy summer rest. Lighting the river for evening walks is such a good idea.
alancollins Sep 11, 2009 at 11:51 PM Report Abuse

This looks a beautiful area to visit. I had not heard of the Neman River before I saws your tips.
KiKitC Sep 11, 2009 at 3:25 AM Report Abuse

Fabulous tips, and great historical info. I think I would enjoythe Hill of Songs, what a way to learn about a culture.
deecat Sep 11, 2009 at 1:58 AM Report Abuse

Certainly enjoyed your descriptions and photos of this area and of the Neman. Loved the sculptures, churches, and other architecture.
Gili_S Sep 10, 2009 at 11:44 AM Report Abuse

This is rather interesting place to stop over. I will try to remember in case I will drive south :)
volopolo Sep 9, 2009 at 9:35 PM Report Abuse

Great and full of informations in your Birstonas Page Ewa. I like the sculptures picture! Nikos
Nemorino Sep 9, 2009 at 5:50 AM Report Abuse

I also like to visit rivers that I have read about in novels (or plays/operas) but I must admit I have never read any novels that were set on the Neman. (Last night I did some substitute teaching and there was a lovely young Lithuanian lady in the class.)
scottishvisitor Sep 6, 2009 at 1:10 PM Report Abuse

All looks charming around here :) I loved the childrens' art work & the sculptures. I see you captured the very wide river & nice pics of you & Chris!
uglyscot Sep 4, 2009 at 11:10 PM Report Abuse

Nice pictures and interesting things to see . Another good page,