"Nerja" Nerja by ranger49

Nerja Travel Guide: 319 reviews and 772 photos

A very popular destination

I first visited Nerja in the 1970's when it really was still a fishing village. The accidental discovery by two schoolboys of the Nerja Caves some years before had kick started the beginning of real tourism in the town. And from there it just went on growing. We enjoyed annual winter holidays through the 1990's, mostly in selfcatering accommodation. Year by year the town was changing- being gentrified as little Spanish front room shops gave way to boutiques, gift shops and supermarkets. Dozens of restaurants and bars sprang up, many run by incomers offering all day English breakfasts, roast beef and Yorkshire puddings like mother used to make. The resident population must have quadrupled with the influx of permanent ex-pats from northern Europe, particularly Britain, Netherlands and Germany.
But I have never forgotten some of the great times we had at the slightly scruffy restaurant on Burriana Beach specially the night, just before sunset, when the sky turned indigo, causing our whole family group of 6 adults to temporarily abandon dinner to soak up the beauty of the moment. Nor our first February Fiesta night - it really was a night to remember.
And the ripe juicy figs falling from the huge tree in the dusty un-made central car park.

So the character of the town changed and dropped out of our regular winter itinerary but we spend occasional short breaks there, and our daughter spent her honeymoon there in 1996 and has returned regularly ever since, in spite of the growth and changes.

Burriana Beach

No longer just a beach strip with cafes along the broadwalk. The waste land behind the beach - where Dormobiles and motor homes from all over northern Europe used to congregate - particularly in the winter months - was built up several years ago - In this picture you see the rise of apartment blocks with touristy shops on the ground floor. Now they rise almost to the height of the cliffs behind but still cannot compete with the majestic mountains of the Almijara in the background.
At the very far end of the beach there was once once a slightly tumble down beach restaurant with a leaky thatch roof. One afternoon after a thrilling flameco display by a couple with a guitarist a cliff fall brought the performance - and the cafe to sudden finale. The beach and cafes rae very busy all day long in the high season.

Balcon de Europa

Calahonda Beach from the Balcon.

The town's centrepiece this little promontory of a promenade attracts people all day long and the best sunsets can be seen from there.

For places to visit from Nerja see my pages on

Maro

Alhama

Frigiliana

Herradura

Intro Updated Jul 15, 2009
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Reviews (11)

Messing about with boats at marina del... Off The Beaten Path (3)

Stay on the coast road going east from Nerja until you see a sign for Marina del Este then take it! If you like to mess... more travel advice

The old coast road to cerro Gordo Off The Beaten Path (3)

Some of the most spectacular scenery can be seen if you leave the N340 and travel on the old coast road east of Nerja... more travel advice

Off the beaten track - but what a view! - Nerja

Off the beaten track - but what a view! Restaurants (2)

We found this restaurant with the most beautiful of views and excellent food by chance on a drive along the old coast... more travel advice

In Las Alpujarras Off The Beaten Path (3)

We looked at the map and identified a route for a long drive out in the mountains. It had to have a green line along it... more travel advice

Things to Do (3)
See All Go to the Fair
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Travelogues (1)

Written Jul 10, 2009

8 photos

Fiesta Time in Nerja

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Comments (11)

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balhannah Jun 19, 2012 at 3:41 PM

What a lovely page Barbara. This sounds like our kind of place. The views are incredible and that aqueduct would be something to see! Like your accommodation choice too! I'm sure you were in safe hands with John driving.
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Yaqui Feb 20, 2012 at 9:25 AM

What a lovely sunset you captured! Another delightful page!
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Nemorino Jan 25, 2012 at 9:17 AM

I’ve never been to this part of the coast, but I do know other parts, west of Malaga, that have changed drastically in the past half century. In your book list I was happy to see that you recommend The Spanish Labyrinth by Gerald Brenan. That is a book I read many years ago and found very perceptive.
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Trekki Sep 10, 2011 at 9:22 AM

Oh sweet memories :-) It was approx. 1000 years ago when I was there on a brief visit but I loved it. Haha, that photo with the dogs meeting is adorable :-) And thanks for the book tip - I didn't know Chris Stewart, but soon!
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breughel Aug 2, 2011 at 6:50 AM

Not returning to places one liked years ago because they got touristy and lost charm is something we all have experienced. That's why we try new places as we can not compare with ten or twenty years ago!
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starship Apr 15, 2011 at 8:48 PM

Lovely introduction page and such beautiful photography of the views and local scenes. The virtual tour was pleasing!
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Bwana_Brown Sep 18, 2009 at 6:16 AM

I can see why you enjoyed your time in Nerja so much! Great tips on the many aspects of your visits there. Too bad we were so clueless - did not know that either the Cueva de Nerja or Balcon de Europa even existed! Still, we loved it too!
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lynnehamman Aug 4, 2009 at 7:36 AM

Excellent overview, good tips and interesting photos- another lovely page, Barbara. The view from hotel is just perfect, what a sunset. Perfect ingredients here for a wonderful holiday.
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olja1234 Aug 2, 2009 at 2:15 PM

I've never heard about Nerja. I like your page - well done.
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diosh Jul 11, 2008 at 1:57 PM

Is it too spolit now, I wonder? Friends of mine recommended it in the 80s.