"Jacmel, beaches and paintings . . ." Jacmel by Beausoleil

Jacmel is a town full of surprises. There is the wonderful black sand beach with excellent surf. There is art around every corner. There are fabulous views. There is wonderful seafood in all the restaurants.

There are also little hidden coves for fishing and swimming if you take the back roads and search for them. Ask the locals or even hire a guide . . . support the Haitian economy!

Manoir Alexandra

This should be a hotel tip but I love the photo so here it is. This is a charming, old fashioned Haitian Pension. The rooms do not have private baths, but the upstairs bath is utterly charming, painted in florals. The downstairs bathroom opens onto a courtyard so you can shower in the open air.

All the rooms I've seen open onto the balcony that looks out over the beautiful bay. The service is excellent; the coffee outstanding; the views superb. You can walk anyplace in town from here and also to the beach.

There is no air conditioning and it might be described as "shabby-chic" but if you like charm, it is lovely.

• Pros:Stunning view, great swimming, excellent art, lovely crafts
• Cons:Getting there can be an adventure.
• In a nutshell:Utterly charming old Haiti . . . here and now!