Mission District and other San Francisco, CA Things to Do Tips

The Mission District is a great place to spend and afternoon eating and shopping. Despite some gentrification, the Mission is still very much the City's Hispanic epicenter. Mission Street in particular will remind you very much of a Mexican Main Street.

The Mission proper is a very large area, but the "hipster" or "tourist" Mission - containing lots of thrift stores, burrito joints, and cafes, is the area between 16th and 19th Streets up and down, and Dolores and Mission left to right. This is part of what some maps call the Inner Mission. The Outer Mission is not as hip, but still has some great restaurants, particularly along 24th Street near Potrero.

My favorite thing to do in the mission is to walk down Mission or Valencia streets and poke around the incredibly tacky Mexican and Chinese junk shops. Mission is especially good for CHEAP luggage, shoes, clothes, whatever. If you're on a budget, do your shopping here!

The Mission is, for the most part, a relatively safe neighborhood. Not always, though.

One area to be wary around is the BART station at 16th & Mission. The plaza here is always crowded with bums, drug dealers and junkies. The good news is that it rapidly gets better as you move south towards 17th Street, or west towards Valencia. What you DON'T want to do is go east. First, you'll hit notorious Capp St. If you want to have fun with a San Franciscan, tell them your hotel is on Capp St. and watch what kind of reaction you get! Capp St. is well known for its junkie prostitutes, and if you see the hookers here you'll swear off sex for good! South Van Ness from around 16th to 24th is only marginally better, and is also a well known gang hangout. Definitely avoid these streets at night.

The Mission can be dirty, gritty, and occasionally dangerous, but it's worth checking out. Just stick to the main streets and shopping areas and practice your street smarts and you'll be fine. And full.

Check out my photos series of abandoned movie theaters...

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Directions: The best places to stroll in the Mission are Mission Street from 16th to 21st Streets, and Valencia from 16th to 20th Street.

If you are in town on April Fools Day, you MUST take part in the St. Stupid's Day Parade. It happens every April 1st, rain or shine, and starts usually from the Transamerica Pyramid. The marchers - all wearing ridiculous outfits and carrying stupid signs - walk around the financial district, and do stupid things. One of the highlights is the "sock exchange," where everyone meets on the steps of the Pacific Stock Exchange and hurls socks at each other. Another is the traditional "throwing of pennies at the Banker's Heart," which takes place in front of the Bank of America building.

This IS San Francisco nuttiness at it's finest. To miss it would be... well, stupid!

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Directions: Meets (usually) at Transamerica Building and tours the Financial District. Check the website.
Website: http://www.saintstupid.com

This newbie and freebie is a delightful little museum in the shadow of the Ferry Building. It opened on Sep. 2, 2006.

It's a small, one-room affair, but it contains some really cool stuff! Among the old, battered street signs and placards, you'll find the railway agent's logbook filled out on the day of the 1906 earthquake (he described the weather as "smoky"), and a rail transfer from that morning. There's also an interactive video screen which has some great old movies and pictures of Market Street pre- and post- earthquake.

There are also plans to put a car facade inside the museum, but that probably won't happen until December, 2006.

The gift selection is quite good, with some excellent clothing featuring the old streetcar signs, and lots of great postcards and books.

And when you're ready to take the F-line streetcar, it stops right outside the door!

The museum hours are...

Wed. thru Sat. - 10 AM to 6 PM

Cost: FREE

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Address: 77 Steuart St.
Directions: The museum is located on the plaza facing the Ferry Building on the SW corner.
Website: http://www.streetcar.org

Though you may have never been here before, you've seen Alamo Square a million times. A favorite postcard view - pictured on such TV shows as "Full House" and that horrible show with Brooke Shields (what was that called?) - no view is as quintessentially San Francisco as the famous row of 6 Victorians with the city skyline looming in the background.

Alamo Square is a 4-square block patch on the top of a hill just north of Haight Street in the Lower Haight neighborhood. The famous view is looking east, towards downtown. Surrounding Alamo Square on all sides are many beautiful houses, mostly of the "stick style," which was the 1880-1890 period, immediately preceding the Victorians. There aren't any cafes or anything on the square, but if you walk downhill to Haight St, or go downhill on Fillmore heading north, you'll find coffee and food.

The Zen Center is pretty close to here (I'll try putting a tip on it soon), and the Lower Haight is just down the hill.

Alamo Square is pretty safe at night, though it is close to an unsafe area a couple blocks downhill and to the East. This would be Buchanan Street - the designated crack dealing area. The corner of Page & Buchanan in particular should be avoided. There used to be some gnarly housing projects in this neighborhood, but the replacement housing has cleaned up the area considerably.

VERY IMPORTANT PHOTO NOTE - if you want to take some serious pictures here, come in the afternoon! The morning light is no good; the Victorian house-fronts will be in shadow.

Alamo Square also happens to be 3 blocks from my house. So if you're going to be in the neighborhood, send me an e-mail and I'll meet you for coffee!

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Address: Between Scott & Steiner and Hayes & Fulton.
Directions: Alamo Square is bordered by Scott & Steiner and Hayes & Fulton Streets. There is no parking garage, but street parking should be available. The #5 or #21 bus goes right to it, or you can take a bus to Haight and Pierce and walk uphill 4 blocks.

When you come to San Francisco, you really should get out on the water somehow. Most people do this via the Alcatraz tour. But another option is the Bay Cruise tour run by the Blue & Gold Fleet, who are the same people who do the Alcatraz trip. The trip takes a little over an hour and leaves from Pier 41 (next to the dreaded Pier 39). Most people take this cruise because they didn't make reservations on the Alcatraz tour and were out of luck. Let this be a lesson.

A very hokey (but actually pretty informative) recording features "Captain Nemo" spinning yarns about the City as you pull away from the dock and head out along the waterfront towards the Golden Gate Bridge. You pass within feet of the famous Pier 39 sea lions as you leave. The waves become choppier and the winds pick up as the looming bridge gets closer... and closer... and closer! Soon you are right underneath it(!), staring up at the underbelly of this modern marvel. After a few minutes the boat then cuts over to Alcatraz and does a slow pass close to the shore. From there it's back to the dock.

There's some advantages and disadvantages to taking this ride versus the Alcatraz trip. On the plus side, you won't usually need to get tickets in advance (remember, if you want to do Alcatraz, you'll NEED to call and make reservations AT LEAST a day in advance and sometimes more). It's a short ride - you can park, get tix, do the ride, and leave in about 2 hours - good if you have things to do or get seasick easily. And the Alcatraz tour doesn't go under the bridge.

On the downside, it's a bit pricey- $21 for adults. If you're more than a few people, I would call and inquire about group rates. And if you're more than, say,10 people, I would seriously look into chartering a private boat for a few hours. B&G also offers some combo tours as well that include the bay cruise. And I'm pretty sure that some of the many combo cards (where you get admission to several museums and tours for a flat fee) include it as well. Check the website or call SF tourist info.

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Address: Pier 41 - next to the dreaded Pier 39
Directions: Park in the Pier 39 garage - or take the historic F-line rail car.
Website: http://www.blueandgoldfleet.com

The Japanese Tea Garden is a lovely little patch of shrubbery and pagodas just to the left of the new DeYoung Museum. And, yes, despite what others may say, it is worth it. The gardens are well maintained, and the bridges and pagodas are beautiful. It's a great place to take some pictures, or just go for a little stroll with your sweetie.

The tea house is fun, especially on a rainy day. It is pricey - I think tea service for two is something like $9 - but it's a great break from a day of running around the park.

Hours of operation:
March thru October - 8:30 - 6
November thru February - 8:30 - 5

Admission is $3.50 for adults, less for kids
First and Last hours of each day are free
1st Wed of the month half price (Sep. thru May only)

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Phone: 415-752-4227
Address: Located in Golden Gate Park, next to the DeYoung

After 5 years and a complete tear down and rebuild, the MH DeYoung Museum is finally open again!

Now, to start off, let me say again that San Francisco has had a reputation for having not very good museums - and the old DeYoung was often sited as an example. The new DeYoung, however, is a vast improvement! The architecture is bold and provocative, eliciting all kinds of praise and grumbles from locals.

Is it a great museum, artwise? I would have to say... probably not. But the overall package of the architecture, the setting, the views from the observation deck, and (some of) the art make it a must see. It is also right next to the Japanese Tea Garden, scross from the soon-to-be-opened Academy of Sciences, very close to Strybing Arboraetum, a few blocks away from the 9th Avenue shopping district, and about a mile or so away from the Haight/Ashbury, so you can make a very enjoyable day out of the area.

Admission is $10 for adults, $6 for youths, but you get $2 off for showing your MUNI transfer or pass! Your ticket also provides same-day admission to the Palace of the Legion of Honor, which is a long ways away, but is actually even better than the DeYoung (artwise, at least).

When you get in, check out the cool courtyards and entryway! The first floor contains a largely uninspiring assortment 20th c. and Contemporary art. The good news is it gets better on the 2nd floor. The African Art is amazing, as is the collection from Oceania and New Guinea. These two areas alone are worth the price of admission.

The observation tower looms 9 stories over GGP, and has incredible 360 degree views. The other 4 photos are taken from there.

Museum Hours:
Tuesday thru Sunday, 9:30 AM to 5:00 PM
Open 'till 8:45 PM on Friday
CLOSED MONDAY!

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Phone: 1-800-777-9966
Address: Music Concourse in GGP, 9th Avenue entrance
Directions: Take the N Judah streetcar to 9th & Irving, walk north 1 block to GGP and follow the signs. If driving, enter park on JFK, find the museum, then park somewhere in the vicinity.
Website: http://www.thinker.org

Fort Point makes my list as San Francisco's most underrated tourist attraction. I think it's a must see; so many folks go to see the GG Bridge, but right down the hill stands this gem. Fort Point is located directly underneath the bridge on the SF side. Chief bridge engineer Joseph Strauss toured the fort when plans were being made to demolish it to make way for the Golden Gate, and said, "While the old fort has no military value now, it remains nevertheless a fine example of the mason's art... it should be preserved and restored as a national monument." He then designed the archway allowing the bridge to be built over the fort.

While many believe it is a "civil war" fort, that is not technically accurate. The fort was started in 1855, to guard against Spanish and French ships who might be after California's newfound gold, and only coincidentally was finished in time for the Civil War.

Two events very nearly shifted the balance toward the Confederacy. A group of Confederate sympathizers approached commander Albert Sydney Johnston (a Kentuckyan) and asked him to help lead a revolt. Johnston - a man of the highest honor - refused, dispite his feelings, citing his allegiance to the Union and the job he swore to uphold. He later resigned his post to become a Confederate officer, and was killed in the Battle of Shiloh in 1862.

Later, the CSS Shenandoah was on its' way to attack San Francisco, in what promised to be a fierce fight, only to learn from a passing French ship that the war was over.

Since 9/11, Fort Point has often been closed due to terrorism comcerns, because of its' location directly under the bridge. At the moment, it is only open Fri, Sat, & Sun, from 10-5. Bring warm clothes - it can get very chilly on the water, even when the sun is shining all around.

Best of all, admission is FREE!

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Phone: 415-556-0505
Address: Under the Golden Gate Bridge
Directions: Park at GGB parking lot and walk down, or follow the road through the Presidio to the small parking lot. The 28 Muni bus goes to the GGB lot.
Website: http://www.nps.gov/fopo

Coit Tower is a beautiful SF landmark, and should be on your list of must sees - at least for an hour or two.

You can drive to Coit Tower, but I do NOT recommend it! Parking is extremely limited, and you could wait a VERY LONG time for a spot to open up (an hour is not uncommon). The 39 MUNI bus goes to it, but the best way to get to Coit Tower - if you're in OK shape - is to walk. There are several staircases that take you from the lowlands at Levi Plaza (which used to be the shoreline) up Telegraph Hill. The Filbert Street steps are the most well known, but the Greenwich Street steps are nice as well.

The views from the parking lot are great, but you'll have to stand on the walls to peer over the junipers, which need a good trimming. There is an elevator that goes up to the top; for $4.50 - the price of 2/3 of a scoop of ice cream at Pier 39 - you can get some of the best views of the city.

Also inside, for no charge, are the famous fresco murals. Occasionally vandalized by people objecting to their socialist messages, and, more recently, by dumb people who just want to carve their initials in something, they were done in 1934, at the height of the American Socialist movement. The longshoreman's strike was in the same year. They are great works of art in themselves, and you can spend hours (well, maybe one hour) looking at all of the details.

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Website: http://www.coittower.org/

If - and only IF - it's a clear day, you'll want to make the short drive up to Twin Peaks. The view is incredible. You'll get to see most of San Francisco (at least, most of SF that is of interest to the visitor), and, on clear days, you'll see a lot of the East Bay and Marin.

There may be public transportation here on MUNI - I'm not sure. If you don't have a car you can get a similar view from Tank Hill (click here) or from Market Street above the Castro.

There is parking, but you may have to wait for a spot to open up if it's busy. This also used to be a popular "Lover's Lane" kind of place at night, though I think people have gotten more uptight in recent years!

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Directions: From the Castro, take Market Street up the hill and follow the signs. Take a right on Twin Peaks Blvd.