"A Moroccan Ramadan" a Morocco Travel Page by bangkokjim

After arriving in Casablanca airport in the morning, I quickly headed to the bus station for a bus towards the South. I wanted to see a more untouched Morocco. I travelled not with a tour group but independently at my own pace, doing and seeing what I wanted to see and stay as long as I wanted to where I wanted to... I stayed with my lovely friends and was treated with warm kindness as if I were part of the family by my friend's gracious mother and her generous hospitality as well as my friend's brothers. I got a chance to see mountains, desert as well as sea in a compact region! I learned about "Berber" culture and Amazigh people ( Amazigheya language) as well as Saharan people and their way of life! I arrived during the Moslem fasting month of Ramadan. I managed to officially fast for 2 complete days ( very difficult as I have a low blood sugar and my metabolism is fast) but the remaining part of the time I ( cheated) a bit by eating some bread and some wonderful Moroccan tea or coffee in the morning ( because I fell asleep before SOHOR) but didn't eat or drink anything until the muezzin sends off the call to prayer - officially breaking the fast at nightfall. I joined the rest of my friends eating really tasty foods, some of them one could find only during Ramadan. Starting off with dates, then Harira ( Moroccan soup with many ingredients inside), then some juice as well as wonderful pasteries and sweets ( I forgot the names). I especially loved the coffee and tea and the way it was prepared. My friends would sit around and strum the guitar and sing fun songs together and we laughed and really enjoyed each others company- We had deep discussions about cultural differences, religion, politics, and music- I think we had a wonderful exchange, breaking down barriers and building new bridges of friendship. I was not really keen on running around to different places everyday like a tour group but to see a few places and really get a good feeling of the life and the rhythm of the people. In the later evening we all went out to the street cafe which was full of men - the smell of coffee and the energy of the people everywhere made me feel so nostalgic- All that was missing was some music from Om Kalthoum or Abdel Halim-hafez to complete the feeling. Other times we would go for some juice or "laban with different flavours" with more wonderful Moroccan pasteries or cake! We ate so much at times that we laughed and joked walking home- looking as if we were drunk- but had not a spot of alcohol!
Moroccan local transport was TAXI SAGEER which was shared price and long distance taxis had 4 people crushed into the back seat ( usually crabby old ladies_ they complained about me keeping the window open) and 2 people sharing one seat in front next to the driver. Not the most comfortable but we got around!
OH! You can leave your angry stomache pills at home ( I forgot mine at home and NEVER needed to use them) I drank the water from the taps everywhere and in my opinion it is better than those bottled waters imported from France and other pretentious places with over the moon prices!
Oh gosh! I have to warn people about EVERY kind of bicycle , car or lorry on the road! there seem to be NO breaks on any of those and they come darting from all directions, dodging me forcing my friend to hold my hand to cross the streets all the time!
My time in Morocco went very quickly and was a bit sad to leave my friends as well as the country, but I know I will definately be returning in the future ( inshallah) to different places of the country, ( I want to go into caves, waterfalls, different villages, and experience the way of life when it is not Ramadan. I hope this next opportunity I will be more clever in crossing the road ( by myself!)and maybe have perfected the way on how to make Moroccan coffee!!

I have been told that most Moroccan homes do not have facilities to take a bath/ shower- hence the delightfully ubiquitous Hamam- or bath house. These places are segregated for men and women and are places for people to take a refreshing bath and massage! What a wonderful experience! I had some experience when I was in Istanbul so I had somewhat of an idea on what to do, but the massage was the highlight! I was first scrubbed down by a man with a rough mit, then soaped up and rinsed off. this happened twice. This man then grabbed a hold of me, and using his feet, legs, arms and body, twisted and turned, as well as vigourously massage my body- making me feel at first like a pretzel, but later invigourated and a "new person".
I went to another HAMAM in Casablanca ( It was located on some small narrow alley )which really resembled the Turkish style in Istanbul Entering the place set me back into another era in Ottoman Oriental days of Ali Baba. It was decorated with mosaic walls, marble counter which I had to lie ontop of while a man dressed in a kind of "Ali baba" uniform with sleeveless shirt gave me a total scrub down ( he even showed me the disgusting dead cells and dirt and muck being rolled off my skin!) and then he soaped me up and washed me down with water. I went into the steam room which resembled an old Ottoman style Hamami with basins filled with water which you scoop out water and pour over yourself and enjoy the steam ( just like the Italian/ Turkish movie "STEAM" !!) After I finished I was sent into a room which felt like it transported meback centuries ago, to rest on some lounge chairs to recover from all the energy, steam and attention my body had during that hour! REALLY WORTH the experience!
I want to go to different HAMAM as I go to different places in the Arab world, or Middle East,- I wish I could do this more often! Anyone else want to join me?

Taxis seem to be the local mode of transport. There are the "Taxi Sageer" which are orange and are for local trips inside the town. Larger taxis ( various colours according to the city) go long distances. Two people could share a seat up front and up to four ( usually grumpy old ladies?) could squeeze together in the back seat. These shared taxis are not expensive, but if one were to take a taxi which is private, on one's own the cost could be quite high!

I am glad my best friend came with me each time to witness the full taxi experience with me! Oh! I almost forgot! When one is crossing the street and a taxi is approaching, one must scamper as quickly as possible to reach the other side of the road safely. The taxis seem not to have any breaks, or the drivers don't know how to use them! CAREFUL!!!