Istanbul Restaurant Tips by Alikatt

Cafe Smyrna: great for summer al fresco lunches

I only went there twice. Once just to take a quick peek and the other time, last summer for lunch with my friend who lives in the area. The pasta dish I ordered could have been more al dente. I should have picked a salad...Good mix of people/crowd that are mostly hip and cool-looking. There are a few tables set up outside. Good for people watching.

Favorite Dish: Don't know yet...the salad and sandwiches looked good.

Address: Acarsu Cad. No:29 Cihagir

Comparison: about average

Phone: 212 244 24 66

Price: US$21-30

Rating: 3

Theme: Local

Reina: Fantastic ambiance in the summer, Bosphorus views

Reina boasts a superb setting by the Bosphorus, a jetset crowd (Turks, expats and party-loving people), stand-up-and-dance music by the DJs spinning (can be iffy at times imho) the vast outdoor area, etc. It has four or five restaurants in its arena-like setting overlooking the the central area where a fabulous cystal chandelier is suspended under the main dance/socializing apres-dinner area. Chic and stylish furniture surround that venue. Seafood and continental food is served by Reina restaurant, the main one. There is also a Japanese (Benihana) and a Chinese restaurant (Dragon) plus a Turkish one. In 2004, I dined at the Japanese restaurant and had the most expensive mediocre Japanese food I've had in my life!

For a safer bet, have continental food or the seaffod specialties at Reina. There is also a rooftop restaurant that opened in summer 2006 (on top of Reina) where I dined and had an excellent dinner while watching Adja Pekkan's concert below. In the summer time, Reina reigns supreme! It even has its own powerboat. It is open until 4 am.

When I go to Reina, I usually leave at around 3 and head for Crystal if its a weekend.

Favorite Dish: Seafood, Mediterranean and continental cuisine from Reina restaurant. The Chinese food at Dragon isn't bad either.

Address: Muallim Naci Caddesi No.120 Ortakoy, Istanbul

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: along the Bosphous, past Ortakoy if heading toward Rumeli Hisari.

Phone: 0212 259 59 19

Price: US$41 and up

Rating: 3

Theme: Other

Website: http://www.reina.com.tr

Leb-i-derya: great rooftop views

It offers fantastic views of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus first of all. Good drinks from the cool bar. Food is good but not great. Ambiance at night is more 'romantic' for sure.
In the summer of 2006, another location opened at the Richmond hotel off Istiklal Cad. Check it out.

Favorite Dish: Nothing memorable. Pasta was more cooked than al dente.

Address: Kumbaraci Yokusu 115/7 Tunel, Beyoglu

Comparison: about average

Directions: ascend the stairs to the small elevator and then go up two more flights to the top.

Phone: 212 239 49 89

Price: US$31-40

Rating: 3

Theme: Eclectic/International

Website: http://www.lebiderya.com

Brasserie Nisantasi: "to see and be seen" place, day and night

It is a well-crafted, fine establishment with indoor/ourdoor seating in the most fashionable district/corner in Istabul - Abdi Ipekci Caddesi in Nisantasi. In winter 2004 and last summer, I stayed right acrosss Beymen so it was so convenient to walk over for a cuppa, drinks in the afternoon or pre-party cocktails or just to watch fellow fashionistas and ladies who lunch and hang out in between their shopping pursuits. Beymen, Istanbul's answer to Neiman Marcus can be accessed by a door at the back of the restaurant. Be warned since you will be tempted to shop once you walk in there...

Favorite Dish: Their menu is continental but leaning toward French. I like the salad nicoise or the steak with frites. I also like to have brunch there in the summer weekends. Sitting al fresco is preferable. Drinks are around $12 and breakfast is $15-20. Lunch, $25-35 without alcoholic beverage.

Address: Apdi Ipekce, Nisantasi, Istanbul

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: In the same building as Beymen.

Phone: +90 212 343 0443/44

Price: US$31-40

Rating: 3

Theme: Eclectic/International

Cuppa: a cool place in Cihangir serving healthy fare

My American friend living in Cihangir took me to Cuppa. We just walked from her flat to Yeni Yuva Sokak which is off to the right of Cihangir Sokak leading to Suzam Sokak or Sesame Street. The restaurant is bright and airy, open and is very pleasant in terms of modern, minimalist but slightly bright decor. Apple green and some orange accents add cheery touches. There is a full juice bar and you can add wheat grass juice to it. Kind of a "jamba juice" like place but cooler and less commercial. There a various magazines and a few comfy settings for one to settle in to lounge and read the paper or surf the web in. Bring your own laptop.

Favorite Dish: I had the juices a few times but the one time I had actual food, I had a vegetable wrap with turkey which was very good and a detoxifying but refreshing fruit drink.

Address: Yeni Yuva Sokak 26/5 Cihangir Istanbul

Comparison: about average

Phone: 212 249 57 23

Price: US$11-20

Rating: 4

Theme: Other

Website: http://www.cuppajuice.com

360: great view , good ambiance

The buidling is grand and the attending doorman that let us to the elevator was very courteous. The lounge floor is reached via an elevator then another walk-up to the top where the dining area is and the terrace with views to die for. I actually only had drinks on all my 4 visits there so I can't say much about the food. I hear it's good though. The most striking feature of this place is the almost 360 degree-view (hence the name) of Istanbul from this vantage point from the open terrace. Wine was good (Doluca of course) and was well presented by a considerate male staff member when I first went there in Aug. 2005. It would have tasted better if Ferrari won the F1 Turkish Grand Prix then.

In late June 2006, I went once for drinks with the girls and a late night pizza. I ran into a friend who used to live in San Francisco outside! What a small world indeed! The pizza was decent but not great.

I went again in late July 2006 for an industry party and it was awesome! The organizers also had a guest DJ from NY and dancing was definitely on the agenda.

Seriously, 360 is a place to go to in summer or winter whether you have an occasion to celebrate or not. The women's bathroom was so hot since the pendulum style lamps hang low from the ceiling which produces a good amount of heat.

Favorite Dish: Unfortunately, the only thing I had with late night drinks is pizza - not worth writing about. It was ok but I can personally make better pizza than that to be honest. Drinks were good though.

Address: Istiklal Caddesi Misir Apartment K: 8 No. 32/311

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: Beyoglu 80600

Phone: 212 251 1042

Rating: 3

Theme: Eclectic/International

Website: http://www.360istanbul.com

Sunset Bar and Grill: excellent food, killer views

Sunset boasts not only fine international and Japanese cuisine but also fantastic views of the Bosphorus below. Sushi and sashimi are superb. Dine al fresco in the summer or enclosed in its glass terrace in the winter months.Equally fine wine is served.

Unfortunately, my dinner last month (August 2006) was not memorable. The sushi was fine and the desserts were awesome but the service was slow.Also a drink we didn't order was put in our tab.

Favorite Dish: Sushi and any seafood or international dish. I like fish cooked delicately and paired with Doluca's Serafin Sauvignon Blanc. Simply superb and the views are awesome! In the summer, it's dining under the moon and stars.

Address: Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol sok. No:2, Ulus

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: next to Ulus Park

Phone: (212) 287 03 57

Price: US$41 and up

Rating: 2

Theme: Eclectic/International

Haci Abdullah: authentic Ottoman cuisine Haci Abdullah Review

The place evokes grandeur especially in the cavernous room way back. That is where you should sit if you go for lunch of dinner. I was taken there for lunch by a local who is a regular diner. He knew the staff and the staff knew him. Service was attentive and superb. On my second time, I went in as a tourist although accompanied by a male Turkish friend. The service was not as good as the first time. This summer I dined with a fellow VTer who is female. We were treated well and there was a lot of laughter. The food is described as those which have been prepared for the Ottoman sultans of the past but to me they all looked good, tasted good but it wasn't haute cuisine. One can tell though that the area where preapred food is displayed, is kept immaculately clean. I like the lamb shank, the appetizers with eggplant and the special quince dessert. They have a separate chef for dessert and a dedicated area where all the dulce desserts are presented as well. I almost always order the same food everytime I set foot there because they never disappoint. This past summer I went for lunch one day and returned a few weeks later for dinner. I was surprised that they have the same exact food for luch as for dinner! It was my first time to go for dinner so when the lamb arrived, I wanted to have red wine with it. I was in for another surprise! They don't serve alcoholic beverage. I think it is published in their website that they adhere to religious tradition but I obviously didn't see it. I would go there again when I return to Istanbul.

Favorite Dish: The food I named above taste very good and are far superior to the fast-food version one can get in Istiklal. The fresh ingredients, the quality of the food the whole ambiance of Haci Abdulla is a must for visitors. It is actually quite popular among the locals as well.

Address: Agacami Sakizagaci Cad. No.17 Beyoglu

Comparison: about average

Directions: Sakizagagi Sokak near the mosque off Istiklal Cad. in Taksim

Phone: 212 293 8561

Price: US$21-30

Rating: 4

Theme: Local

Website: http://www.haciabdullah.com.tr

Nu Teras: Fantastic house music, views, crowd

Reservations are a must, at least two weeks in advance in the summer time for this rooftop restaurant in Taxim. This is in the same league as Reina where the Istanbulites and expats like to frequent. It caters to my taste and the ambiance to me is divine. Although the food is on the pricey side, it is excellent. Prepare to spend around $120 for dinner for two with two drinks. The apres dinner party is a couple of steps down from the dining deck. The Bosphorus and the lights from the Asian side behind it beckons. It is only open from June to mid-September.

Favorite Dish: Just about everything there is good since the chef is trained in continental cuisine. They have an excellent wine list as well plus a fully stocked bar for the discerning dining clientele. Service is nearly at par with a 5-star hotel. Jeans are acceptable. The guest list is restricted to thier own VIPs and those whose names appear on the dinner reservations list. Usually, you must dine to get in althought we just walked in on a Saturday night this past summer. They seem to have relaxed their rules or maybe they just recognized me from my previous visits. (ha ha)

Address: Tepebasi Mesrutiyet Caddasi No. 149 Beyoglu

Comparison: most expensive

Directions: near Tunel, Taksim, Istanbul

Phone: 212 245 60 70

Price: US$41 and up

Rating: 3

Theme: Eclectic/International