Baksheesh (Arabic word for tips) is a way of life in Luxor - and that is understandable considering more than 60% of the people depend on tourism for their livelihood. But I never imagined it could be practiced in such an undignified and demeaning way - until I met the baksheesh monster at the mosque near the Luxor Temple.
Those who've been to Luxor would have noticed the beautiful mosque on the main square beside the Luxor Temple complex. An attraction in its own right, it was the object of my shutter-happy mood one afternoon. As I was happily taking pictures of this beautiful piece of Islamic architecture, a smiling man beckoned me to enter the mosque and take more pictures. True enough, he showed me the beautiful interiors with the grand chandelier and intricately-carved wooden mihrab (the niche that points to the direction of Makkah). I was having a grand time - enjoying the friendliness and kind gesture of this man - until I was about to take out my wallet and give a donation (which was the norm).
Before I could say my shukran (thank you) and give him my donation, he demanded 20 pounds (~USD 3.50) as baksheesh. I was taken aback. Yes, I was planning to give him 5 pounds (~USD 0.90), but more than the amount itself, I didn't feel good being squeezed for a "donation." It just didn't feel right. So I gave him a 5 pound bill and said my thank you, and that's when he metamorphosed into a ravenous baksheesh monster and went ballistic shouting who knows what (in Arabic), while at the same time shoving me out of mosque just stopping short of hurling me out with my shoes (I still had to put them on). It was a horrible, humiliating experience. And one that left a very bad taste.
As I was leaving, I can't help but wonder, if the money was for the mosque, why did he put it inside his pocket and left the mosque, too? I can only say "bless him!"
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on Jun 11, 2007
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