Aleppo Things to Do Tips by Tijavi

The Citadel is perhaps Aleppo's best known historical attraction - and for good reason. It stands high and mighty on the eastern end of the old city area keeping watch over the city.

Standing on a strategic, natural mound, it is as historic as Aleppo itself. It is believed that the mound was a place of worship before it became a fortification with a more military function. The Seleucids are thought to have built the first defensive structures in around 300 BC. But much of what could be seen today were built during the Mamluk rule (1250-1517 AD). The Citadel played an important role during the time of the Crusades serving as power base for the Muslims.

Allot at least one hour for exploration. Some of the more interesting features of the Citadel are the stepped bridge entrance, the steel plated doors, the cistern and underground prison, the remains of an Ayyubid Palace with its colorful entrance, and a 13th century grand mosque which has been restored.

Around this grand mosque is a cafe where you could hang out for a while and soak in the great views. Not surprisingly, the Citadel is one of the most strategic places in Aleppo to take aerial photos of this historical city.

During my visit in early December 2007, the area surrounding the Citadel is being dolled up for tourists and cafés have sprung up and are doing brisk business. It's a great place to chill out after a tour of the Citadel and the souq area.

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Directions: On the eastern side of the old city, near the souq area.

As the name implies, this is Aleppo's mosque of mosques, built by Caliph Al Walid of Damascus' Umyyad Mosque fame, and Caliph Suleiman (c. AD 700). Historical buffs may be disappointed to know that nothing much of the original structures exist today due to countless destructions and rebuildings in the past. The sole remaining structure that survives today is the free standing minaret, which, with its intricate ornamentation, is a mesmerizing sight especially when lighted at night.

Entering the mosque won't cost you a single piastre, although donations are welcome. As always, observe proper etiquette when entering such holy Islamic places.

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Directions: Within the souq area in the old city

Despite all the flies-infested garbage carelessly piled near the entrance, Bab Antakya (Antioch Gate) deserves a visit. This massive stone portal built in the 13th century, now surrounded by workshops, used to be the grand entrance to the old city, onto the main street leading to the Citadel. Its centuries-old soot-and-dust-covered walls belie the lofty purpose it was built for during the Roman era when Aleppo was known as Beroia - as a grand entrance to this prosperous city which linked Asia with the Mediterranean.

Spend a few minutes here not only examining the massive stonework and imagining how the place would had been during the Roman times, but also observing the hustle and bustle of daily Aleppine life.

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Directions: From the Citadel, walk straight down Souq al-Zarb to Souq Bab Antakya. Bab Antakya is right at the western end of this narrow road.

This now-dilapidated theological college used to be the 6th century Cathedral of St Helen upon whose gardens the Great Mosque (Al Jamaa al-Kebir) was built. It is said that for hundreds of years, the mosque and the cathedral stood side by side in harmony until in 1124 when Muslims, responding to the Crusades, raided the church and converted it to a madrassa (Islamic school).

Today, the building is in a state of disrepair and badly needs restoration. The only remaining element of the cathedral is the prayer hall, which has been incorporated into the madrassa's design.

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Address: Souq area in the old city
Directions: Opposite the western entrance of Al Jamaa al-Kebir

Built in the 16th century, Khan al-Sabun is a pretty little corner within Aleppo's souq. East of the Great Mosque, the khan's charm is found in the Mamluk facade, the vine-covered courtyard and the graceful arched staircase that leads to nowhere. I find this little corner very relaxing and a refuge from the hustle and bustle in the souq. Unfortunately there are no tea gardens where weary tourists could linger on and soak up the khan's relaxing ambiance.

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Directions: East of the Great Mosque

Literally "the new" in Arabic, Al Jdeida is relatively younger than the city's old quarters (area around the Great Mosque and Citadel) built mainly during the Ottoman period. It is a charming area of narrow stone-laden streets and intimate high-walled passages occasionally criss-crossed by vaulted archways. Blazing red mailboxes as well as flashy doorw with their ubiquitous clenched fist knockers - an Allepine icon (see opening picture) - add color and character to the place.

From these alleys, the whole place may seem deserted as most of the activities take place inside the wall-enclosed living quarters that look inward into trellised courtyards. Some of these homes, such as Beit Wakil, have been restored and converted to commercial uses such as hotels and restaurants. Beit Wakil is now a boutique hotel (with a very good restaurant - see restaurant tips), and is open to visitors who wish to have a glimpse of how grand these houses are (see separate tip on Beit Wakil). Al Jdeida is the traditional haunt of affluent merchant families, mainly Christians (hence, the place is called Christian Quarters sometimes) and money was certainly no object during the construction of these mini-palaces.

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Directions: From Sharia Bab an Nasr turn right on the narrow street signposted Al Jdeida. If you're taking a cab, tell the driver to take you to Saahat al-Hattab, the area's main square.

If you don't have the budget or staying in restored places is not your thing, you might still want to visit Beit Wakil at the Al Jdeida area. This boutique hotel is a lovingly-restored 18th century mini-palace that offers a great chance to see how life used to be lived behind Al Jdeida's walled homes.

Beyond the 'ordinary' black Aleppine door, almost everything here is extraordinary - the domed ceiling over the main lobby soars to about three floors high, the lovely courtyard surrounded by latticed vine-covered balcony, the intricate stonework on the walls - you get the idea. The staff are friendly and do allow non-guests to wonder around the hotel.

The hotel also houses a good restaurant (see restuarant tip) and an underground bar.

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Directions: About 20 meters from Beit Sissi (another famous Al Jdeida restored home that now hosts a restaurant) along the narrow Sharia as-Sissi (to your left).

Within Al Jdeida, the Christian quarter, is the Maronite Church, built in the 19th century - certainly a new building relative to other points of interest in the old city and even within Al Jdeida itself. Except for symbolisms relating to Muslim-Christian mix of Syrian societies (and I should say, a model version of harmony), the church has little to offer in terms of architectural qualities. Spend a few minutes here to view the stained glass icon on the altar's ceiling, the Arabic-designed main door, and the sword-wielding statue of St Elie on the church courtyard.

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Address: On Saahat Farhat
Directions: From Saahat al-Hattab in central Al Jdeida, take the small nameless alley towards the west until you reach Saahat Farhat.

Arguably, the souq is Aleppo's biggest attraction - even eclipsing the gigantic fairytale Citadel and the very atmospheric Al Jdeida quarters. It may lack the grandeur of Istanbul's Kapali Carsi (Grand Bazaar), and the rough-as-guts charm of Cairo's Khan el-Khalili, but it certainly is most authentic, charming, even exuding a deep sensuality that comes from a complete assault of the five senses: colorful aromatic spices, glittering gold, roaring motorbikes, unceasing honking from delivery vans, smell of raw blood from butchers' stalls only to be masked by powerful Arabic scents from the nearby perfumeries, lathery olive oil soaps, furry carpets, sweetness from unadulterated organic honey and the tastiest shawarmas (Arabic sandwich) on the planet!

Hands down, this is my favorite in all Aleppo. It's amazing how one of the most basic forms of social interaction, i.e. shopping/commerce, could be as entertaining and engrossing as this. The beauty behind Aleppo's souq is its authenticity - almost everything is geared for local trade, and souvenir shops for tourists are a rarity (think Khan el-Khalili in Cairo), as are pushy carpet salesmen (think Kapali Carsi in Istanbul).

To gain a different perspective of the souq, try coming here on a Friday as well, when almost every shop closes for the holy Islamic Friday. The whole place takes on a different aura - somber with a straight-from-a-horror-movie mood. But it gives you the chance to see that the souq - with its Ottoman motif - is in itself an attraction.

Please do visit my travelogues for more images from the souq.

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