Unlocking Aleppo's charms | Clenched fist knocker, Al Jdeida |
Straddling strategically across an area of great historical significance, Aleppo, more commonly known as Halab to the Arabs, played host to many empires - Hittites, Seleucids, Romans, Persians, Muslims, Byzantines, Mongols, Ottomans, French and English - each came knocking on Aleppo's gates in their quest for dominance. While the resulting conflicts may had the city's gates and walls covered in blood, the constant cycle of changing culture made Halab what it is today: a historical city rich in impressive ancient monuments where Muslims and Christians peacefully co-exist. a merchants' town fuelled by high-octane trading culture where citizens feast on cuisine second to none in the Arab world (I could hear violent reactions from the Lebanese!).
Great as it may sound, Aleppo is no fairytale destination either. Poverty is as much a fact of life here as it is any city in the world. Many of the city's buildings are crumbling and some sprucing up is in order. The city chokes in unhealthy fumes from poorly-maintained vehicles.
Still, what is so likeable about Aleppo is its unvarnished charm - it is not contrived, it is pure, its authenticity is unquestionable. The souq, arguably the city's largest attraction, remains geared for local trade much as it had been for centuries. The old city, despite its World Heritage status, is very much alive with common folks going about daily life. So is Al Jdeida, the Christian quarter.
And the people - the Aleppines - strike a very dignified nature (no one will bother you for baksheesh - worlds apart from notorious Cairo), radiate a genuine sense of friendliness, and are as well-groomed as they are well-mannered.
I'm so glad I took the plunge to visit Syria and that Aleppo was my first glimpse of this fascinating country. Like the conquerors of the past, I too knocked on Aleppo's gates and also liked what I saw and experienced. But unlike the invaders whose main goal was to conquer, it was I who was conquered by the city. Wish I had more time to enjoy the experience. |
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