Top-Flight Bistro ( 5 photos) and other Budapest, Hungary Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Name: Cyrano'

Cyrano' offers a wide-ranging menu in an upscale trendy setting just a bit off Vaci Utca and a block from ter Vorosmarty. There are two stories, the second a loft and the first a larger dining room. In season, outside dining is also available. The contemporary decor includes dark green marble floors, iron chairs (which are not THAT uncomfortable), and an impressive candle-bearing chandelier used in the Depardieu movie Cyrano de Bergerac. The young chic crowd dominated the restaurant at our visit. The long international and Hungarian menu has touches of France and Asia at moderate prices.

Favorite Dish: Eating late after a full travel day, we went for a salad with sliced duck for sharing, followed by chicken and veal entrees, all done very nicely. Rated as one of the best restaurants in the neighborhood.

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Theme: Eclectic/International
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Phone: 266 3096
Address: Kristof ter 7-8
Directions: Adjacent the pedestrianised shopping street, Vaci Utca, one long block from the ter Vorosmarty metro and Gerbaud.
Website: apparently not

Restaurant Name: Gerbeaud House

The legendary Gerbeaud House traces its origins to 1858 and one Henrik Kugler, a member of a dynasty of cavity-inducing confectioners. His business settled on ter Vorosmarty in 1870 and rapidly became a meeting point for the cultured of central Europe. Emil Gerbeaud of Paris was added as a partner in 1883 and created a legend. His baked goods and candy products were beautiful as well as delicious. The interior decor was designed by Henrik Darilek over several years after 1910 using wood, marble, and bronze in an eclectic and very opulent deco style. For many years after Gerbeaud's death in 1989, the cafe languished and was even named Vorosmarty for some years. In 1995 a German businessman, Erwin Muller took ownership and renovated the cafe to its former glory as we see it today. The wooden panelling, marble tables, and chandeliers are stated to be in the past. The cafe not only offers the famous cakes and pastries, chocolates, and candies of the past, but has a formal restaurant and less formal bistro. However, the place to be is the outside tables on the square. We never saw a single person in the fancy restaurant. Interestingly, a wedding service is available.

Favorite Dish: As Gerbeaud was very near our hotel and adjacent our metro stop we visited several times. Sadly, we found the service staff unfriendly and uninterested. And frankly, we were not exactly blown away by the pastry offerings or the legendary coffee either. Gerbeaud is certainly better than many pastry cafes, but it is not even the best in Budapest (see Ruszworm below). Many of these problems may reflect the state-ownership of Gerbeaud, no longer a private enterprise.

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Theme: Other
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Phone: +36 1 429 9000
Address: 1052 Budapest, Vorosmarty ter 7.
Directions: In the heart of Pest, on Voromarty ter. Accessible by metro M1 (Vorosmarty ter terminal), metros M2, M3 (Deak Ferenc ter), trams 47 49, buses 4 9 15 105 City (Deak F. ter/Erzsebet ter).
Website: http://www.gerbeaud.hu

Restaurant Name: Ruszwurm Confectionery

The first confectionary at this site opened in 1827 by Ferenc Schwabl. It has always been inherited along the female line, oddly, and named after Vilmos Ruszworm who managed the business from 1884 to 1922. The furnishings of this remarkably small operation reflect the 19th Century origins with a cherry wood counter with a mahogany inlay and ornate furniture. Glass cabinets in the entry foyer contain old table ornaments and figurines well worth a glance. The dining area is crowded but comfortable with the replicas of the original. We found the service to be harried, but warm and accomodating (contrast Gerbeaud).

The pastries may well be the very best we have ever enjoyed. Flavorful but not overly sweet, textured but not heavy, perfect. And great coffee. We cannot recommend a stop here strongly enough.

The Szamos family which now owns Ruszworm also owns the Marzipam Museum and Store in Szentendre, which we also visited (that tip features a few remarkable creations).

Favorite Dish: We ordered a cheese strudel and a remarkable chocolate cake with a cream and fruit filling. The young waitress took the time to walk to the display cabinet with me and make recommendations despite the crowds. And we were not hurried in any way. The products here are so good that the young couple next to us, unmindful of cholesterol, finished their first order and then had another. The coffee was great, the prices reasonable (very).

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Theme: Bakery
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Phone: +36 1 375 5284
Address: 1014 Budapest, Szentharomsag ter 7.
Directions: One and a half blocks west of Trinity Square and the Matthias Church = the second image shows the relationship of the patisserie to the church.
Website: http://www.ruszwurm.hu

Restaurant Name: Cafe KoR

Cafe Kor is highly touted on VT, in tour books, and in advertisment booklets as the best bistro dining in Budapest, and it is indeed very good. Small and crowded, the arched ceiling, crowded tables, hustle and bustle, and specials on a handwritten blackboard typify the scene. The walls are a light orange with wood trim, understated and appropriate. Nice bar. Despite all the publicity, on our visit, the clientele seemed predominantly local trade. Service was friendly and effective - even without a reservation a table was made available cheerfully. But we were probably lucky - you should reserve in advance, as this place was crowded even when we left.

Perhaps all the hype raised our expectations to an unreasonable level - our food was very good but not really great. We shared an unmemorable salad and for entrees ordered a chicken dish in sesame seeds with fruit ( a specialty) and a duck breast preparation with a light fruit sauce (not heavy and cloying). The menu is predominantly Hungarian with a few eclectic twists. Other specialties include foie gras, steaks, preparations of uncooked meats.


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Theme: Local
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: US$21-30  » Currency Converter
Phone: +36 1 311 0053
Address: 1051 Budapest, Sas utca 17.
Directions: Near St. Stephen's Basilica, nearest metro stations: M3 Arany Janos utca, M1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky ut. Also accessible from bus stop Hild ter / Jozsef nador ter (4express 105 both way, 16 Deak ter-bound).
Website: none I can find

Restaurant Name: Gundel

This restaurant is frequently rated as the best in Hungary, and one of the best in Central Europe, and we have no cause to disagree. Opened in 1894, the first Gundel to manage the restaurant was Karoly in 1910 and in the following years it established a remarkable reputation. Wartime and nationalization under the Communist regime led to a serious downturn, but the restaurant has been owned by George Lang ( owner of New York's Cafe de Artistes ) and Ronald Lauder of cosmetics fame and fortune since 1991 and it is indeed superb.

The dining room is of course quite beautiful. The worthy sit in an elevated section and the American tourists are lined up against a far wall in one row ( my only complaint - like ghetto warriors being lined up against a wall to be executed ) but the entire room and the seamless service make for a great dining experience. The walls are covered with paintings by noted Hungarian artists, the table settings are perfect with Zsolnay china. The experienced service staff with their perfect pacing and the strolling violinists set the stage for world class dining. The spousal unit says this may be the best meal she ever ate. Some reviews here on VT and elsewhere are lukewarm, and at these prices, perfection should be the standard. Our dining experience was very close to that perfection indeed. Reservations are necessary, jackets are required for the gentlemen, and costs will be at least $65-85 US per person ( not included bottled wines which are presumably quite costly). Jackets are provided for those without.

Favorite Dish: A shared appetizer of stuffed mushrooms was excellent. Entrees included the Gundel duck which was simple and perfect - deep rich taste, crisp skin, no fat. The Hungarian classic chicken papricka was assertive and yet light enough to allow for a dessert - a world class entree. For dessert we had the classic Gundel crepe with walnuts and a chocolate sauce -sounds good, doesn't it - and a flavorful light chocolate cake. All in all, a memorable outing.

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Theme: Local
Comparison: most expensive
Prices: US$41 and up  » Currency Converter
Phone: +36 1 468 4040
Address: 1146 Budapest, Allatkerti ut 2
Directions: In City Park, near Heroes' Square, behind Museum of Fine Arts. Walk from Hosok tere (metro M1, buses 4 4exp 20exp 30) or take a trolleybus to Allatkert (#72) or Allatkerti ut (#72 75 79) stop.
Website: http://www.gundel.hu

Restaurant Name: Robinson Restaurant

Traditionally listed as one of the top 5 restaurants in Budapest, Robinson is often classified as Mediterranean cuisine. Reviewing the menu, it seems quite Hungarian in orientation with a heavy emphasis on poultry including duck and goose, heavy sauces, and a few selections from Mediterranean and other Central European cuisines. Prawn entrees are specialties. Appetizers run up to $15 and the most expensive entrees up to $30. There are some Asiatic offerings and a children's menu is available. Desserts are up to $5.

It sits on an island in the lake at the City Park, entered over a very short bridge, and occupies a modern waterside building for indoor dining and a multitiered deck set over the water where swarms of ducks await your handouts. The setting was delightful for a late afternoon light lunch of salads and soups with service best characterised as businesslike but competent. We gazed across the lake at families walking in the summery September afternoon, fed the ducks, and much enjoyed the meal. It is hard to judge the quality from our choices but we were more than satisfied. Other tables help groups of four to six appearing to devour large portions of the regular menu. A very good choice after walking through the park area.

Robinson is proud of its prior guests including Arnold Schwarzenegger, David Bowie, Jean-Claude Van Damme, Sylvester Stallone, and Robert Redford.


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Theme: Eclectic/International
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: US$21-30  » Currency Converter
Phone: 422-0222
Address: 1146 Varosligeti to
Directions: On the lake right near Heroe's Square and across from Gundel.
Website: www.robinsonrestaurant.hu

Restaurant Name: Mokka

This upscale fusion restaurant near St Stephen's Basilica and just a few short blocks from the Danube is visually stunning - a strange melange of Iberian and Moorish with masks and accessories adding an African touch. In keeping with the trendy decor, the servers are dressed in the obligatory black with Mokka running down the pant legs. The menu, which changes very frequently is pan-world basically with sophisticated (or just plain complicated)sauces, spices, and side dishes. One constant feature is the appetizer sampler - choose 5 or 6 items from a list of about 15 and easily serving two. The entree list is extensive and wide-ranging. We selected marinated chicken breast with salad and a sauced sliced duck breast on flavored mash potatos. Presentation is, as on the accompanying image, in keeping with the trendy atmosphere. Prices are above average, no surprise here.

The appetizer sampler was very good indeed, 5 choices on a bed of lettuce with an assortment of dipping sauces. Unfortunately, the entrees were surprisingly bland and blah. Certainly good enough, but far less complex and sophisticated than we might have hoped.

On a quiet Sunday night, the restaurant was 3/4 empty. Nonetheless we were immediately shown to the worst table in the house, right next to the kitchen door. We refused the table and were then seated right next to the smoking section which was empty. A group of about 10 were soon seated next to us and we were smoked out, requiring yet another table change. Another couple who walked in were also shown, by the way, to the table by the kitchen door and also refused it, only to be directed to the table next to us and the smoking section. No excuse for this.

I should mention that next to our third table was a single male diner - a businessman from Chicago - who visits 3 Central European cities 3 times a year. He said his boar steak was one of the best meals he had ever eaten and that Mokka was his favorite restaurant on his travels. Not exactly our appraisal of the food, but another opinion.

Favorite Dish: The star here is the appetizer sampler - we had an assortment of seafood and meat appetizers which were well prepared. As above, what one chooses for an entree is apparently a key to success.
The website is not so easy to navigate but the menu prices seemed accurate although the items on it appear to have changed since we visited.

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Theme: Eclectic/International
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Phone: 328 0081
Address: Sas U. 4
Directions: very near St. Stephen's, about 3 blocks from the Chain Bridge.
Website: www.mokkarestaurant.hu