Dresden Things to Do Tips by nicolaitan

The Zwinger Complex is the centerpiece of Dresden's Old City, no doubt bringing joy to the heart of August the Strong ( which reposes nearby - more below ). The name derives from the original location between two defensive walls of medieval Dresden. The original plan was for 6 pavillions connected by galleries open to the Elbe River. After construction of the Semper Opera, the open end was closed by additional galleries designed by Semper himself creating a closed rectangular palace with a large central area of lawns, wide promenade-like pathways, and fountains. Originally used for court functions and celebrations as well as exhibitions, the Zwinger today houses several remarkable museums as well as being a classic Baroque architectural structure.

August the Strong's visit to France in 1688 coincided with the opening of Louis XIV's magnificent Versailles palace. Having just married into the royal Polish family and becoming king of Poland as well as elector of Saxony, August would have nothing less for himself. The Zwinger was designed by Matthaus Poppelman, the court architect, in the early 18th Century and constructed in stages between 1711 and 1728 with sculptures by Permoser. Poppelman was Westphalian but had studied architecture in Prague and Vienna at August's behest, prior to creating this palace. It has never served as a residence and was open to the public from the beginning. The first formal event in 1719 was the wedding of August's son to a Hapsburg princess. The Renaissance style gallery known as the Semperbau closing the rectangle was added beginning in 1847.
The Zwinger was basically destroyed in April 1945 by allied bombing but the art and other treasures had previously been removed to safety. The Communist rulers wanted to bulldoze the whole area but the people of Dresden voted to restore these buildings to their original glory - they deserve undying gratitude.

The pages to follow will detail the famed pavillions and the several museums of the Zwinger.

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The most famous gate and probably the most photographed structure in Dresden is the Kronentor or Crown Gate. Atop the famed green dome, August the Strong's Polish crown is supported by the four Lions of Poland. The statuary is the work of Balthasar Permoser (1651-1732), over 60 years old at the time of construction. Besides the coat of arms, Greek gods and a host of nymphs and satyrs embellish this gate and much of the remainder of the Zwinger. August likened himself to the gods and was a man of strong sexual appetites - the statues reflect the man who commissioned them. Four internal niches (image 3) contain female representations of the seasons.

The Glockenspiel Pavilion - the former City Gate, opening to the palaces of Dresden, was renamed in the 1930's after the first of several additions of fine Meissen porcelain bells. The bells were removed to safety during WWII and re-installed with additions some years later. Today, musical performances several times an hour draw from an extensive programmed library. Do not miss the large number of statues of women in varying degrees of undress -- August kept a fair stable of concubines hidden away in the Zwinger and was renowned for having a larger-than-real-life sexual appetite. And of course the requisite Greek Gods. Above the clock note the crossed swords of Saxony.

Rampart Pavilion - the oldest pavilion features Hercules at the top supporting the world. Unsurprisingly, the model was none other than August himself. Impressive stairways lead to the upper level offering the best views of the entire Zwinger complex. The usual statuary of Greek gods and undressed women profuselly adorn the Rampart.

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August the Strong was larger than life in all his activities and passions by all counts. His love of fine porcelain was fanatical -- he called it his "Porcelain Madness". He amassed a huge collection of Japanese and Chinese porcelain figures, vases, and decorated pieces for his reconstruction of the large building known even today as the Japanese Palace. At one point, he traded 600 of his soldiers for 150 Chinese vases, in the end amassing the largest collection in Europe but also nearing bankruptcy.

His solution was the imprisonment of a failed alchemist named Johann Bottger who failed to create gold but is credited with developing the first European production of white porcelain (although he probably stole the idea from an older colleague on his deathbed). By 1710, porcelain was being produced commercially in Meissen. By 1720, a technique had been developed to paint the porcelain with enamel and thousands of pieces were added to the Japanese Palace collection. These ranged from dining services to full-size reproductions of animals considered exotic in Europe. Kept secure during WWII thankfully, today over 20000 porcelain figures and decorative items are kept by this museum with a permanent display of over 2000 in the porcelain museum wing housed next to the Glockenspiel, including several of the famed Dragoon vases.

This is truly a must-see museum in the Zwinger - largely Eastern on the ground level and Meissen on the first floor - each piece is masterful. A ban on photography is strictly enforced, but different monitors are in each of the many rooms so some images can be exposed - expect to get no more than one in each room. The truly magnificent pieces could not be imaged very sadly but pictures could not do them justice anyway. And the rooms of the museum are themselves worthy of note - regal, with marble columns and arches - from the original 1735 plans of Zacharias Longuelune originally intended for the Japanese Palace.

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The Armory is housed in one wing of the Semper wing of the Zwinger and houses one of the world's largest collections of weapons, costumes, and body armor. Many pieces actually belonged to the Saxon electors and the rest were either gifts or acquired especially by August the Strong. Swords, knives, pistols, rifles, shields, horse armor - used for war, tournaments, or simply decorative - this museum has it all set in a magnificent room with high Gothic ceilings, subdued decor in rust and offwhite, and modern glass enclosures. Some of the elaborate pieces are decorated with gold design by Europe's finest goldsmiths of the 17 and 18th Centuries. The total collection exceeds 10000 pieces with over 1300 on display.
One highlight is the armor for children and their appropriately small horses set at the far end of the room.

Old Master's Gallery - the second occupant of the Semper wing is the renowned art gallery. Relatively small for a world class gallery with a library of only 750 paintings, it was begun as the collection of August the Strong and features an all-star lineup in a three level presentation. German, Italian, Low Country, French, and Spanish painters of renown are represented including Murillo, Watteau, Rubens, Giorgione (Sleeping Venus ), Durer, Holbein, the list goes on and on. But this museum lives and breathes for one holding, Raphael's Sistine Madonna (image 4) with it famous disinterested -- ?bored? - cherubs. ( I read somewhere that theirs is the single most frequently used image for t-shirts in the world ).
Raphael Santi (1483-1520) painted the Sistine Madonna on the altar of Chuiso San Sisto in Piacenza Italy, hence the name Sistine. Intended for Pope Julius II, it features both St. Barbara and St. Sixto, the patron saint of the Pope's Family. It arrived in Dresden thanks to a huge donation by August III, son of the Strong, a devotee of Italian art, to the monks of Piacenza. Except for a short visit to Russia after WWII, it has remained the centerpiece of the Old Master's Gallery.

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The famed Saxon State Opera Dresden known as the Semper Opera House is a post war reconstruction of the building planned by famed architect Gottfried Semper between 1871-8 replacing his earlier work destroyed by fire. This boat shaped Renaissance style building is an outgrowth of Semper's great love of classical and Italian architecture and is considered one of the world's most famous both for its beauty and its acoustics. Performances cost in excess of $100 US and are sold out way in advance. Tours are only in German - join the long line at the right side of the building for the tours beginning at 2:30 PM. An English summary is available free of charge but the interior is so stunning that you may have little time to read it. Most of the tour guides, with the help of the rest of the tour group, will do their best to translate the essentials ( more or less ).

The building dominates the Theaterplatz - at the entrance look up to see the chariot drawn by four panthers with Dionysius, the Greek god of art, and Ariadne, in some myths his wife or lover (image 4). The main statues on either side are von Goethe and Schiller, the famous writers. The periphery of the roof and the niches contains statues (image 5) of other famed art legends including Moliere, Shakespeare, Sophocles, and Euripides ( but not Eumenides ) as well as ancient Greek and Roman heroes and gods. Some of these statues are pre-WWII originals saved after the bombing which destroyed the building. The cupola over the central entrance, ( image 3 ), features The Three Graces - daughters of Zeus representing joy, charm, and beauty - with Apollo, the son of Zeus and god of poetry and music, and Marsyas, a flute-playing satyr.

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A major part of the guided tour is through the staircases and hallways of the opera house. The ceiling and wall paintings feature mythologic scenes in bright eye-catching color set against a luxurious gold and white decor. Large Corinthian-style marble colums line the walls and staircases. Lighting is by both ornate chandeliers and wall-mounted fixtures. Further splashes of color are from velvet-like cloth in a rich red color on benches and scattered on the walls as well.

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The centerpiece of the Semper Opera is the magnificent theater. The regal stage is surrounded by extensive orchestra seating and three balconies with royal boxes. During our visit, the famed curtain was covered, but the massive ornate chandelier backed by extensive ceiling paintings and the ornate decor for the balconies and walls were a highlight of the tour. Camera images cannot do this room justice.

The aura of the auditorium is enhanced by a knowledge of the great composers and their works which have been performed here. Numerous operas by Wagner and Strauss received their debuts in this room and the list of composers and singers who have been featured. The Saxon State Opera Orchestra and Chorus are currently housed here and are world-famous.

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High above the stage and just below the ceiling is a long mural stretching the entire width of the stage and featuring the most famous and charismatic operatic personalities devised by the minds of composers and authors. Each is dressed in the clothing of their time and represents a high point of operatic achievement. Even I, with little knowledge of opera, could identify Falstaff, Iphigenia, and of course Othello. Included are images of the entire painting divided into four sections - if you opera experts can identify any of the others, please let me know. I loved this painting - my lack of knowledge should not preclude you from checking it out.

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The Procession of Dukes is a remarkable mural originally painted by Wilhelm Walther between 1871-76 and in 1907 transferred to more than 24000 Meissen tiles over a length exceeding 100 yards. The occasion was the 800th anniversary of the Wettin dynasty. It is located on the narrow Augustusstrasse which is the best route between the museum-palcace complex and the touristic commercial center of Old Dresden, attached to a back wall of the palace in an area used as a stable. The majesty of this work is somewhat denigrated by the line of tacky souvenir kiosks along the opposite wall - shut them out and concentrate on the art work - black,white, and grey drawings which are almost like pencil drawings set against a gold and grey background.

At the beginning, a band and herald(image 1) lead images of each Wettin duke, margrave, prince, and king dressed in period specific clothing and with appropriate armor and weaponry. The first of the 35 royals is Konrad The Great (1127-56) with all the others in chronologic order ( the names and dates are inscribed at the base ). The most famous is August the Strong (1694) and the last is King George (1902-4). Only Friedrich August III (1904-18) is not included. At the end are a grouping of citizens with artists, tradesmen, scientists, and teachers with a total of 94 on the mural as well as horses for the royalty and a few dogs. And at the extreme far right is an image of Walther himself.
It was pointed out to us that the horse for August the Strong is about to trample a flower, meant to recall his conversion to the Catholic faith in order to become King of Poland - the horse is stamping on the flower of Protestant reform.
Of interest, the tiles suffered little damage in the WWII carpet bombing of Dresden. Less than 200 needed replacement and the work was refurbished in the late 1970's to its current appearance.

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Address: Augustusstrasse

The Bruhlsche Terrasse is a broad 500+ yard long promenade overlooking the Elbe River is built on centuries old fortifications which today is a gathering place for leisurely strolling for both visitors and residents. The creation of European porcelain by Bottger in 1708 was in the vaults of the old fort. Constructed in 1738, it was gifted to Count Heinrich von Bruhl in 1747 by Elector Frederick Augustus II in appreciation for the development of a consumption tax intended to maintain the city and which is a forerunner of today's VAT tax. von Bruhl was the curator of the royal art collection - a man of many talents.

The terrace can be entered by a narrow stairway leading up from the restaurants of Munzgasse (image 4) or by an elegant wide staircase from Castle Square lined by statues of the four seasons. There is an elegant and expensive cafe at the midpoint. Nearest the square is a large square with a stand of linden trees ( image 3), but most of the terrace is a wide stone area for leisurely strolling and sightseeing.

On the old city side, art galleries and a court building line the walkway with the tall Frauenkirche in the background. Looking across the Elbe, the Augustus bridge is named after the most famous Saxon ruler. This is the area where the riverboats dock for passengers as well. And the new city side is lined by a broad green expanse of parkland ideal for strolling (see tip below ) fronting the elegant residential and business buildings of the new city, the Japanese palace, a government financial building and the Westin Bellevue hotel where we stayed in Dresden. In the background is the darkened steeple of the Church of the Three Kings (image 2).

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