"Opera and Protest in Stuttgart" Top 5 Page for this destination Stuttgart by Nemorino


Stuttgart Travel Guide: 816 reviews and 1,571 photos

Foyer of the Stuttgart Opera House - Stuttgart
Foyer of the Stuttgart Opera House

The State Opera in Stuttgart used to have a great reputation for high quality, innovative opera productions. It was voted “Opera House of the Year” in 1998, 1999, 2000, 2002 and 2006. (The Frankfurt Opera got this title for 2003.)

I have seen quite a few operas in Stuttgart, including L'italiana in Algeri (The Italian Girl in Algeria) by Gioacchino Rossini, The Coronation of Poppea by Claudio Monteverdi, Christof Nel's production of Die Walküre by Richard Wagner (with the then-unknown Eva-Maria Westbroek in the small role of Gerhilde), Peter Konwitschny's powerful staging of Elektra by Richard Strauss (with Renée Morloc, Susan Bullock, Eva-Maria Westbroek and Frank van Aken) and Doktor Faust by the German/Italian composer Ferruccio Busoni (with Gerd Grochowski, Johannes Martin Kränzle and Hope Briggs).

Tower of Stuttgart Central Station - Stuttgart

Tower of Stuttgart Central Station

Update October 2010: When I first started this Stuttgart page in 2004 I included two tips on an idiotic project called "Stuttgart 21" which was intended to replace the city's well-functioning central railroad station with 33 kilometers of tunnels leading to a slanting underground mini-station, so as to free up many acres of urban real estate for profitable new office buildings and luxury apartment blocks.

My two tips on "Stuttgart 21" were this one in the category of Transportation and this one under Warnings or Dangers.

At the time I wrote: "Fortunately there is little danger that this hare-brained scheme will actually be implemented, mainly because it would cost millions of Euros that nobody has in their budget."

Little did I know that six years later this project would turn into one of the hottest political issues of 2010, not only in Stuttgart but throughout Germany. The political establishment was still determined to go through with the project no matter what the cost. And a large cross-section of the population was determined to prevent it. Thousands of people of all ages and political persuasions took to the streets of Stuttgart several times weekly to demonstrate against the project, and many thousands more joined them in October 2010 when the authorities started demolishing one wing of the railroad station and cutting down dozens of century-old trees in the adjoining castle park.

I have left my two tips on "Stuttgart 21" unchanged.

Demonstration on July 9, 2011 - Stuttgart

Demonstration on July 9, 2011

Update July 2011: This has been a turbulent year in Stuttgart, with state elections that swept the conservative Christian Democratic Union (CDU) out of power for the first time in decades and installed a member of the Greens party as state governor (Ministerpräsident) for the first time ever.

The conflict over the "Stuttgart 21" project is still raging, however, because the federal government and the German Railway managers are determined to go through with it, no matter what. And thousands of people in Stuttgart are still determined to prevent it, now with the support of the governor and parts (but only parts) of the state government.

On July 9, 2011, I went down to Stuttgart by train to take part in a large demonstration against "Stuttgart 21". I took some photos, of course, and have made seven new Local Customs tips for the benefit of those of you who might visit Stuttgart and would like to know what the frequent demonstrations are about.

  • Last visit to Stuttgart: Jul 2011
  • Intro Updated Nov 28, 2011
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Reviews (41)

1. Cycling in the Castle Park (Schlossgarten) - Stuttgart Cycling in Stuttgart Local Customs (7)

The Castle Park (Schlossgarten) is a favorite place for cycling in Stuttgart. I've never actually cycled myself in... more travel advice

Tents of the park protectors - Stuttgart Park protectors in the Castle Park Local Customs (7)

Adjoinging the south end of the central railway station is the Castle Park (Schlossgarten), a 600-year-old strip of park... more travel advice

1. Rusting blue pipes to lower the ground water - Stuttgart Lowering the ground water level Local Customs (7)

As of 2011, one of the very contentious issues in Stuttgart is the "ground water management", which means lowering level... more travel advice

1. Green balloons above the station - Stuttgart Green balloons Local Customs (7)

At the end of the demonstration the people spread out around three sides of the station and at a signal released... more travel advice

Comments (37)

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  • csordila's Profile Photo
    csordila Dec 19, 2011 at 5:49 AM Report Abuse

    I visited here several times, but a long time ago! L.

  • toonsarah's Profile Photo
    toonsarah Nov 30, 2011 at 2:13 AM Report Abuse

    Can't believe I'd never visited your Stuttgart page before now! Your new tips about the deomonstrations are very enlightening - I wasn't aware of this issue, but it seems sacrilege to cut down those old trees especially.
    Elsewhere on your very informative page, I really liked the Opera House building, especially the ceiling with the constellations and the new glass dome (I love sucha mix of old and new!) And interesting to see how the Hegel House have exposed that square of the previous wall, as we have done the same in our own kitchen!!

  • HORSCHECK's Profile Photo
    HORSCHECK Jul 16, 2011 at 2:59 PM Report Abuse

    Don, great local custom tips about the Stuttgart21 demonstrations.

  • MD2nd's Profile Photo
    MD2nd Jul 14, 2011 at 12:23 PM Report Abuse

    Amazing details & photos! Interesting to learn what's goin' on in Stuttgart, and what the demonstrations are about. Thank you for sharing!

  • breughel's Profile Photo
    breughel Jul 14, 2011 at 4:51 AM Report Abuse

    Railways are also a problem in Belgium. Petty crime in the stations and the trains, frequent technical defects and multiple strikes.

  • german_eagle's Profile Photo
    german_eagle Jul 12, 2011 at 2:33 AM Report Abuse

    Can only repeat my comment on Stuttgart 21: It's a total nonsense. Glad you were among the protesters. I would have joined if I lived closer.

  • balhannah's Profile Photo
    balhannah Mar 27, 2011 at 2:37 PM Report Abuse

    I really like the sound of the Landesmuseum! You brought a smile with your description of "moles & rats!" Nice pages

  • starship's Profile Photo
    starship Oct 23, 2010 at 4:38 PM Report Abuse

    Stuttgart21, if it happens, will be a shame indeed. In some sense it sounds like what is happening here--govt. is determined to do what it wants despite wishes of the people. We'll see what happens on Nov. 2nd!!

  • Toshioohsako's Profile Photo
    Toshioohsako Oct 5, 2010 at 6:30 AM Report Abuse

    uaeful STG tips. I have not been here. Maybe I should visit one day.

  • Roadquill's Profile Photo
    Roadquill Aug 12, 2010 at 1:07 AM Report Abuse

    Hi Don, I enjoyed Vienna, but missed the Opera. I did get to the musikhaus for a Bach cantata on period instruments that was awesome. I good reason to go back. Maybe Stuttgart at the end of Sept. Best, karl

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