| Page Views: 1,344 Last Visit to Milan: April, 2008 | Opera and cycling in Milan by Nemorino - last update: Oct 30, 2009 |
Here it is, Milan's legendary Teatro alla Scala, one of the world's oldest (and newest) opera houses, first built in 1778, scene of the world premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Verdi, Ponchielli, Boito, Puccini and many others. Some of the world's greatest singers have performed here, like Maria Malibran in the 1830s and Maria Callas in the 1950s, and lots of others in between. |
The Teatro alla Scala (often just called La Scala for short) was closed for three years, from the beginning of 2002 to the end of 2004, for a drastic rebuilding. The entire stage area -- everything behind the proscenium arch -- was torn down and replaced by a brand new state-of-the-art high-tech 21st century stage and backstage and stage-tower with all the latest machinery.
The auditorium was elaborately restored and repainted, but it retains its original 18th century shape and seating arrangement -- except for the galleries at the very top, which have been expanded so La Scala now seats 2,105 people instead of only 1,800.
After restoration, the auditorium of La Scala is again just as beautiful and awe-inspiring and wonderful and gorgeous and fantastic (etc.) as it no doubt was in the 18th century. I'm sure a time traveler from the 1770s would love it, as do Milan's legions of loyal opera goers to this day.
For us prosaic 21st century types, however, the archaic seating arrangements at La Scala do present a few slight practical problems -- but of course no true opera lover is going to be deterred by little things like paying through the nose and not being able to see the stage, right?
Right. This is the one and only Teatro alla Scala, after all . . .
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Speaking of practical problems, Milan's thousands of dedicated daily bicycle riders have to get along with a practically non-existent cycling infrastructure. There are hardly any bicycle lanes and very few stands for bicycle parking. Motor vehicles clog the streets and often block the available space so thoroughly that even bicycles have trouble getting through.
None of this stops the Milanese from cycling, however. This young mother in her high heeled boots, hip-hugging trousers and fur stole, with her child's seat on the back of her bike, is one of many who use their bicycles daily as their main form of urban transportation.
As for me, I of course rented a bicycle and had a fine time riding all around. Even in a grotesquely over-motorized place like Milan, cycling is still the best way to see a city.
And I learned once again to appreciate the much better cycling conditions that have been achieved -- through persistence and hard work! -- in cities like Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Münster, Paris, Frankfurt and Verona. |
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 Comments for Nemorino about Milan | | | | |
Yaqui Sat May 30, 2009 16:39 UTC
This probably sounds goofy, but I am fanscinated by the interior of the box seats at La Scala. The interior looks so beautiful, but dangerous for their guests. Hmm, kind of wondering what architect Piermarini was thinking:) Wonderful page! | VeronicaG Tue Apr 28, 2009 14:27 UTC
Ah-ha...now I get it about the seats! To be seen is better than to see--I understand! What a social scene that must have created, thanks for that clarification, Don. | MalenaN Tue Mar 31, 2009 17:26 UTC
Great tips about La Scala! I didn't see a performance, but at least visited the museum. | kyoub Sat Mar 7, 2009 22:18 UTC
An excellent page on Milan, Interesting tips on biking around the city and the opera. |
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