"Singing in the reign . . ." Top 5 Page for this destination Aachen by Nemorino


Aachen Travel Guide: 573 reviews and 1,127 photos

. . . of Lucio Silla, not Charlemagne

Aachen is a border city just six kilometers away from the Three Countries' Corner, which is a place up in the woods where the borders of Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium all come together.

As in most border towns, the people tend to be monolingual and not very interested in the languages and cultures of their neighbors just up the road. (It would be great if somebody from Aachen could write me a comment contradicting this statement, in case it's not true.)


But Aachen wasn't always as peripheral as it is today. A mere twelve centuries ago Aachen was the center of a mighty empire during the reign of Charles the Great (742-814), better known as Charlemagne.

While I don't know much about Charlemagne or his empire, I am quite familiar with the opera Fierrabras, by Franz Schubert (1797-1828), which features Charlemagne as one of the main characters. This is an opera which is very seldom performed -- up to now there have been only four productions of it altogether, two of which I have seen. I have described one of these on my Zürich intro page.

The opera I saw on my recent visit to Aachen was not about Charlemagne but about a very different ruler, a dictator named Lucius Cornelius Sulla who reigned in Rome around 82 or 81 BC. In the opera he goes by his Italian name of Lucio Silla.

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756-1791) was only sixteen when he composed Lucio Silla in 1772, but it was already his eighth opera. This was the third of three operas that he composed in Milan, Italy, for the “Regio Ducal Teatro”, which was Milan's opera house at the time. Like the other two it was a huge success, as I have described in a tip called Mozart in Milan.

The Aachen production was the second staging of Lucio Silla that I have seen so far. We had a beautiful production of it in Frankfurt am Main from 1993 to 1995, and I was also quite satisfied with the Aachen production, which was part of a series of four Mozart operas all involving rulers who at first seem to be vicious tyrants but turn out to be lenient and kind-hearted in the end. This was a common ending for opera plots in the 17th and 18th centuries, since the local rulers were often the ones who paid for the operas -- but today it's very hard for the stage director to make the ruler's sudden change of heart appear plausible on stage!

  • Last visit to Aachen: Apr 2009
  • Intro Updated Aug 6, 2011
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  • balhannah's Profile Photo
    balhannah Nov 15, 2011 at 11:51 AM Report Abuse

    Lovely page! Excellent views from the top of 3 Corner's, and perhaps you were lucky to arrive when the cyclist's were leaving. Couven Museum looks really interesting and one that I would enjoy!

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    northeast80 Apr 14, 2011 at 3:22 AM Report Abuse

    Thanks for passiing through Bristol :-) Great Aachen pages, it's great to be taken back to a beautiful town. And very useful cycle tips too! Emma

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    Redang Feb 5, 2011 at 2:34 AM Report Abuse

    Visited this lovely city just two weeks ago!!

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    ATLC Oct 29, 2010 at 2:19 PM Report Abuse

    Thanks for the Jenny Lind tip!

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    johngayton Sep 8, 2010 at 1:57 PM Report Abuse

    Nicely written page - like the 10 for 1 point. I climbed, rather than cycled, the Dutch mountain but found my pitons, crampons etc a bit redundant LOL ;)

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    richiecdisc Dec 30, 2009 at 4:15 AM Report Abuse

    Always thought it was odd Germans did not want to try Belgian beer & wondered if those closer to the border were different. I guess not. This looks like a fine city close to Belgium which I visit a lot.Have to check out Dreiländereck on a non-tour day!

  • BillNJ's Profile Photo
    BillNJ Dec 6, 2009 at 5:15 AM Report Abuse

    Great page on the wonderful historic city of Aachen! I saw the outside of the theater during my visit -- and I'm glad to see the inside on your page. Also, as always, I like your photos of pretty girls riding bicycles. Cheers, Bill

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    garridogal Sep 11, 2009 at 4:02 PM Report Abuse

    I only spent one afternoon and night in Aachen but was very impressed at how pretty it is. I'd love to return some day and really get to know it!

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    JLBG Jun 4, 2009 at 9:53 PM Report Abuse

    It is amazing how what was once the center of the Western world has shifted on border(s) that are now almost in the center again! Great that there were so many cyclists at Three Countries Corner!

  • Bwana_Brown's Profile Photo
    Bwana_Brown Jun 3, 2009 at 8:17 PM Report Abuse

    Very interesting tips on Charlemagne and the music scene in interesting little Aachen! The surrounding countryside looks like a nice place to enjoy an invigorating bicycle ride. Well done, Don.

Nemorino

“A bicycle is . . . the freedom you thought you were getting when you bought a car.”

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