"Mdina..............mostly... " a Mdina Travel Page by leics

.......until the arrival of a Maltese school group, at least. It was, actually, rather atmospheric when we arrived mid-afternoon out of season; I simply cannot imagine that this historic place has anywhere near the same ambience when thronged with visitors.

There is no doubt that the citadel is impressive, watching over almost all of the island and providing a stronghold for noble families in the past. Its roots lie in prehistory (there was settlement there in Neolithic times), then it became a Roman town (extending under present-day Rabat) and, later, the present citadel was laid out under Arab rule. This latter explains the narrow streets and tall buildings; the Arabs followed their own model for building, providing shade on the hottest days.

From the 13th century Mdina was part of the Kingdom of Aragon, and was given to the Knights of St John in 1530. They were, at the time, not terribly impressed by this 'barren island' and largely left Mdina to the Maltese noble families who lived there. An earthquake in 1630 did considerable damage, unrepaired until the mid-18th century when the Grand Master took it upon himself to rebuild the citadel in its present layout.

Mdina has had different names over time: the Romans called it 'Melita', the Arabs 'Medina' and it was known in Medieval times as 'Citta’ Notabile'. When the capital was changed to Valletta (by the British) it became known as 'Citta’ Vecchia', the old city. It still remains the Maltese religious centre, St Paul's Cathedral being consecrated in 1702 (the Medieval cathedral was damaged in the earthquake).

I quite liked wandering round Mdina. There were little alleys, and nooks, and interesting things to see. Without hundreds of visitors it was possible to get a feeling for what the citadel might once have been like (an essential part, for me, of visiting anywhere with a past).