"Lovely........" a Lucca Travel Page by leics

Lucca is simply lovely.

It's not too touristy, even though tour groups visit (several arrived whilst I was exploring).

The historical centre, enclosed within a complete set of town walls, has a grid pattern of streets (based, I imagine, on the original Roman town) so it's easy to find your way around.

Luccans (like Pisans) ride bikes, so there is little traffic in the centre. Actually, Luccans ride bikes better than Pisans, in my experience. Not so.....erm.....devil-may-care in their approach, so that pedestrians have a more relaxed experience. I even heard Luccans using their bike bells (Pisans generally don't seem to have them, let alone use them). :-)

It is said that, once, there were more than seventy churches in Lucca.

There are certainly still many ancient ones to visit, including the wonderful Romanesque San Michele in Foro (in the main photo), which stands where the Roman Forum once was. Its elaborate frontage cost so much that the rest of the church could not be raised to its proper height, so the facade stands out against the sky, the archangel on top looking as if he is ready to take flight at any moment. Each of the columns on the facade is diferent.... striped and carved and twisted.... and the bell-tower is the tallest in Lucca.

The Duomo di San Martino, SS Giovanni e Reparata (with archaeological excavations to see, Roman and Medieval), San Frediano....all contain so much of interest, both inside and out. I'll make tips with more info, and travelogues, rather than write reams here: I know not everyone is as fascinated by ancient churches as I am!

There were too many churches for me to explore, and it was essential (for me) to visit the Anfiteatro. I think this is probably an entirely unique space. It's the ancient Roman amphitheatre, still standing...except that most of its stones and marble were recycled for use in the churches and buildings of Medieval Lucca. Its seating and external walls were replaced by Medieval houses and the area is entered by deep arches.

Such a strange thing to see. Until the mid 1800s the centre of the amphitheatre was a warren of slums but these were cleared away so now there is a huge oval 'square', surrounded on all sides by tall (and somewhat ramshackle) houses. Of course, it's now a major tourist site...and so there are several cafes, restaurants and bars with tables set out where once the blood of humans and animals ran freely.

I found it an odd experience, but one which very much drew me: the Anfiteatro (at least, on an out-of-season day) definitely has a specific atmosphere. Not unpleasant as such.....just very, very odd.

By the time I'd wandered, and explored the churches, and sat in the Anfiteatro for a bite to eat, and then wandered again and explored another church or two I knew could absorb no more that day. So the walls, and the Palazzi, and the shops will all have to wait until my next visit: I hope there will be a'next visit'.

I also hope that Lucca remains as good at soaking up its visitors without destroying its 'ordinary Italian town' atmosphere as it is at the moment.