"Why Milan?" Milan by leics

Milan Travel Guide: 2,840 reviews and 7,134 photos

A good question. I have no interest in shopping, and even less in fashion, so why go to Milan?

Several answers: it's easy to get to by budget airline from the UK, it's got excellent access by train to many other places....including the Italian lakes......and it seemed a good idea to use it as a base for my first exploration of northern Italy.

It was indeed a good idea, as it turned out, and Milan itself had more to offer me in historical and archaeological terms than I had expected. Consequently, I spent longer exploring the city than I had planned and thus cut out a trip to Bergamo...but I'm visiting there in June anyway. :-)

Milan is a busy industrial city and the bombings of the Second World War did a great deal of damage. But far more of its older buildings survived than I had thought, and a little of its ancient Roman town too.

I chose a hotel near to Milan Centrale station for ease of access by train to my other planned destinations. From internet reading one would think that this area, like that around Termini in Rome, is the height of depravity and 'danger' for the traveller. Absolute rubbish! It is no more unpleasant or 'dangerous' than similar areas around large railway stations anywhere in Europe. It's simply a matter of using common sense; of course one does not wander round alone in the early hours of the morning, of course on keeps an eye on one's belongings, of course one is wary (even curt at times) to those who offer to 'help'you with ticket machines.......but 'dangerous'?? No, not in the least. As a solo middle-aged female I felt perfectly safe wandering around after dark...and there was a carabinieri station on the corner of my hotel's street anyway!

So: what of Milan? Well, it seemed to me a very 'ordinary' city, with people focusing on getting to and from their work, taking swift espressos, meeting friends in cafes, doing a bit of shopping....nothing out of the norm at all. No swan-like supermodels wandering around, no ultra-fashionable women to make one feel uncomfortably underdressed; just ordinary people wearing ordinary clothes for chilly February days..mostly black or dark colours, warmly padded jackets and coats, hats and scarves and gloves. I could have been in any European city....except this one has some very Italian architecture, art and history to explore (as well as excellent Italian coffee, pastries and pizza, of course!).

I liked the easy way one could move around the city using the Metro. I'm not fond of underground systems, but this one isn't as claustrophobic as some (the Tube in London is horrid) and even when quite crowded I found it bearable. But walking is still the best way to explore any city, and I must have walked at least 5 miles every day....

The Duomo had to be my first stop. Like many in Italy it is gorgeously decorated, its exterior a mass of wonderful Medieval carvings. I especially like to look at these, for many of the heads carved by ordinary master-masons were modelled on ordinary folk those men knew personally......so when you are gazing at them you are seeing real human beings who once lived in Medieval Milan (or any Medieval city, for you will find such heads carved on great churches throughout Europe).

But Milan's Duomo is special. As well as the rather fascinating archaeological excavations of previous versions, which you can visit from within the Duomo itself, you can actually visit its roof....a truly unmissable experience. I was lazy; I didn't take the steps but paid a bit extra for the rather speedy lift access. And then I wandered for almost an hour, entranced by the intricacy of the myriad carvings and sculptures up there (some inaccessible at the moment as restoration work is being carried out) and at the views over the rooftops of Milan.

I'll make separate travelogues to show the fantastic stonework on that rooftop...and when you visit, remember that it was all created (and built) without the aid of any modern technology at all but by using wooden scaffolding, wooden cranes, hard work, sweat and sheer skill.

And from the Duomo onwards...to visit as many ancient churches as I could fit in .....to have a look at the Navigli area, with its canals....to see what remained of Milan's Roman heritage....

And that first day wasn't enough, not least because Milan's ancient churches still close between midday and around 3pm. So I had to take more time from another day, to 'finish' what I really wanted to see and, in the process, discover things I'd not planned to see but enjoyed seeing anyway. Chief amongst these was the Archaeological Museum, a clear 'must' for me but I had not realised that the monastery church of San Maurizio Maggiore (the museum is housed in part of the monastery) was open to the public, every wall of its interior richly decorated with stunning 16th century artwork in the most beautiful colours, including frescoes by Bernardino Luini (much of whose work has been lost).

I didn't see Leonardo's 'Last Supper'. Even 2 months in advance there were no tickets available for the days I could visit (school holidays, I'm afraid). But that was no a major disappointment; whilst I fully appreciate great art it does not have the 'must-see' pull for me that ancient buildings have.

Yes, I did use Milan as a base.....I visited Como, and Torno, and fascinating Pavia. Bu, to be honest, before I visited I had not realised that the city itself is worth a couple of days' exploration even for someone with no interest in shopping or fashion.

In this case I was pleased to be proved wrong. :-)

Pros and Cons
  • Pros:History, architecture, art...
  • Cons:A business destination, thus expensive.
  • In a nutshell:More than just fashion and shopping.
  • Last visit to Milan: Feb 2011
  • Intro Updated Feb 27, 2011
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Reviews (22)

Comments (15)

  • ettiewyn's Profile Photo
    Aug 8, 2012 at 11:05 AM

    Hi J, I wish you a happy birthday and a great year with happy travels ahead!
    I returned from Milan yesterday and just had a look at your page again, and am amazed to see that you visited San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, too - I went there yesterday morning, but I had totally forgotten about your tip. Noah's Ark was my favourite picture, too, and it was great to see it on your page again :-)) How funny!
    I think it is amazing that this church looks so plain from the outside, and yet helds such great paintings!

  • Mikebb's Profile Photo
    May 18, 2012 at 3:22 AM

    Like your transport tips, straight into my Trip Planner.

  • Maurizioago's Profile Photo
    Feb 7, 2012 at 1:28 AM

    It would be nice if I could do a day trip to Milano from Bergamo the day of the meeting.

    Ciao!

  • csordila's Profile Photo
    Jan 12, 2012 at 1:16 AM

    I visited Milan several times in the last couple years, but you can show me some interesting places. Thanks. Laszlo

  • smicki's Profile Photo
    May 28, 2011 at 12:37 PM

    Thanks for the reply in the forum - and nice pages! :)

  • saraheg77's Profile Photo
    May 4, 2011 at 2:41 PM

    Oh and it should be fine to purchase the train ticket that day, eh? don't need to prebook?

  • Aitana's Profile Photo
    Apr 26, 2011 at 12:19 PM

    Hi J., thanks for a great page. I'm now planning my free time in Milan (next week) and your tips are quite helpful.

  • omidamini's Profile Photo
    Apr 6, 2011 at 11:20 PM

    Wow, i found Milan very nice, thank you.

  • RoscoeGregg's Profile Photo
    Mar 21, 2011 at 5:32 AM

    I love the multi headed grave stone piture!

  • hunterV's Profile Photo
    Mar 10, 2011 at 12:57 PM

    You have created a wonderful story, thanks! ><><><><

leics

“'Take clothes you can layer....' :-)”

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