"The proper visit........." a Pisa Travel Page by leics

I'd been to Pisa airport four times (staying in Florence), and to Pisa Centrale station as well. But I hadn't been to Pisa itself, so decided to make it my base for exploring some of the Italian cities and towns nearby. Italian trains are extremely easy to use, very cheap in comparison with the UK and serve lots of places.....so, yes: Pisa for a base, with daytrips to Lucca, La Spezia, Cinque Terre and so on seemed like a good idea.

And it was. I hadn't realised quite how interesting Pisa would be: far, far more than just the Campo dei Miracoli which (I suspect) is the only part most visitors ever see. I knew that part would be touristy (and it was) but the rest of Pisa was most enjoyable and somewhat surprising. I hadn't realised quite how many ancient churches there would be for me to explore, nor how much of the city retains its Medieval character. I ended up spending the whole of one day in Pisa itself, far more than I had intended.

Nor had I realised what a very pleasantly ordinary place it is, once away from the main tourist area. Lots of students, of course, for Pisa is an important university. Lots of demonstrations of various sorts whilst I was there (and in Lucca too): I think (for my Italian is not very good) Berlusconi wants to privatise the universities (and schools?) and the demonstrations were against this.

I had never thought of Italy as being a cycling nation, but Pisa (and Lucca)proved me wrong. It was sometimes more like being in Belgium: the pedestrianised areas (and a lot of central Pisa is pedestrianised) were most definitely not just for pedestrians! You can, perhaps, imagine that the Italian style of cycling is .....erm..a little faster and a little more....erm....risky.....than is the norm? Very few bikes seemed to have bells, and I think I only heard one used once anyway: weaving one's way in and out of the pedestrians is clearly much more fun. :-)

The Arno divides the Medieval-walled historical centre of Pisa into two: the railway and bus station being in the southern part. The shop-lined Corso Italia leads from the station across the river into equally shop-lined Borgo Stretto........the streets were full of people in the evening, some on their way home, some shopping, some walking the dog (or the toddler), some meeting friends, having a beer or a coffee, some sitting on the benches enjoying conversation or watching the world go by, some just wandering: a vibrant crowd of Pisans enjoying their city. It is a most pleasant thing to wander amongst them, to sit awhile and people-watch: I've tried to capture a little of its essence on video.

Away from the 'main drag', Pisa (especially on the northern bank) is full of tiny alleyways, arches, Medieval tower houses, arcades and surprises. There is far more history here than one would think and (for better or worse)little is made of it for the average visitor. It seems that Pisa has accepted most visitors really only come to see the Torre Pendante and the Campo dei Miracoli, and has largely kept the rest of the place for its own use. Which means that the vast majority of tourist 'tack' stalls and shops are in the touristy area, and the rest of the place is mostly just like an Italian town.

Except for the beggars: far more of these than I expected, far more handbag-and-belt-and-umbrella men, far more people asking for a cigarette...........maybe Pisa is less strict than Florence, and takings are better? It was interesting to (surreptitiously) watch a group of 'beggars' early in the morning, having coffee at a cafe and planning their day. Certainly I got more hassle in Pisa than I have had in Rome although (as ever) a firm 'No', with hand outstretched and face averted made my message clear.

I did have to go to the Campo first, of course. The best bits of the Campo for me: the Camposanto with its superb collection of memorial art through the ages and hearing the custodian demonstrate the acoustics of the Baptistery. The latter was a spine-tingling experience (I've videoed it). I don't know how often this happens: the doors were shut, 'Silencio!' was bellowed out and I expected a prayer to be said....but all of a sudden the female custodian let rip with some beautiful notes, which resonated, bell-like, throughout the whole building. It was magic, and something I suspect many visitors do not have the privilege of experiencing.

There is also the Duomo to see, and the Torre Pendante (of course). There are, by the way, three leaning towers in Pisa (bet you didn't know that: I didn't). I managed to visit them all. The one in the photo is at the church of San Michele dei Scalzi, a fair old trek along the banks of the Arno but well worth the effort!

And then onwards, to explore all the other ancient churches (they'll be in my Pisa tips and travelogues), and wander the alleyways, and generally have a throughly pleasant exploration of what is (in my opinion) a remarkably pleasant town.