"The proper visit........." Pisa by leics

Pisa Travel Guide: 1,384 reviews and 3,892 photos

Along the Arno at night - Pisa
Along the Arno at night

I enjoyed my very brief 2011 return to Pisa with my farmer's wife friend: we arrived at Pisa San Rossore station (from Lucca), saw the Campo dei Miracoli, walked through the town and got the train back to Florence. Much the same as most visitors, I suspect. But Pisa has much more to offer, as 'the proper visit' in 2008 taught me....

I'd been to Pisa airport four times (staying in Florence), and to Pisa Centrale station as well. But I hadn't been to Pisa itself, so in 2008 I decided to make it my base for exploring some of the Italian cities and towns nearby. Italian trains are extremely easy to use, very cheap in comparison with the UK and serve lots of places.....so, yes: Pisa for a base, with daytrips to Lucca, La Spezia, Cinque Terre and so on seemed like a good idea.

And it was. I hadn't realised quite how interesting Pisa would be: far, far more than just the Campo dei Miracoli which (I suspect) is the only part most visitors ever see. I knew that part would be touristy (and it was) but the rest of Pisa was most enjoyable and somewhat surprising. I hadn't realised quite how many ancient churches there would be for me to explore, nor how much of the city retains its Medieval character. I ended up spending the whole of one day in Pisa itself, far more than I had intended.

Nor had I realised what a very pleasantly ordinary place it is, once away from the main tourist area. Lots of students, of course, for Pisa is an important university. Lots of demonstrations of various sorts whilst I was there (and in Lucca too): I think (for my Italian is not very good) Berlusconi wants to privatise the universities (and schools?) and the demonstrations were against this.

I had never thought of Italy as being a cycling nation, but Pisa (and Lucca)proved me wrong. It was sometimes more like being in Belgium: the pedestrianised areas (and a lot of central Pisa is pedestrianised) were most definitely not just for pedestrians! You can, perhaps, imagine that the Italian style of cycling is .....erm..a little faster and a little more....erm....risky.....than is the norm? Very few bikes seemed to have bells, and I think I only heard one used once anyway: weaving one's way in and out of the pedestrians is clearly much more fun. :-)

Duomo and tower - Pisa

Duomo and tower

The Arno divides the Medieval-walled historical centre of Pisa into two: the railway and bus station being in the southern part. The shop-lined Corso Italia leads from the station across the river into equally shop-lined Borgo Stretto........the streets were full of people in the evening, some on their way home, some shopping, some walking the dog (or the toddler), some meeting friends, having a beer or a coffee, some sitting on the benches enjoying conversation or watching the world go by, some just wandering: a vibrant crowd of Pisans enjoying their city. It is a most pleasant thing to wander amongst them, to sit awhile and people-watch: I've tried to capture a little of its essence on video.

Away from the 'main drag', Pisa (especially on the northern bank) is full of tiny alleyways, arches, Medieval tower houses, arcades and surprises. There is far more history here than one would think and (for better or worse)little is made of it for the average visitor. It seems that Pisa has accepted most visitors really only come to see the Torre Pendante and the Campo dei Miracoli, and has largely kept the rest of the place for its own use. Which means that the vast majority of tourist 'tack' stalls and shops are in the touristy area, and the rest of the place is mostly just like an Italian town.

Except for the beggars: far more of these than I expected, far more handbag-and-belt-and-umbrella men, far more people asking for a cigarette...........maybe Pisa is less strict than Florence, and takings are better? It was interesting to (surreptitiously) watch a group of 'beggars' early in the morning, having coffee at a cafe and planning their day. Certainly I got more hassle in Pisa than I have had in Rome although (as ever) a firm 'No', with hand outstretched and face averted made my message clear.

Another leaning tower........ - Pisa

Another leaning tower........

I did have to go to the Campo first, of course. The best bits of the Campo for me: the Camposanto with its superb collection of memorial art through the ages and hearing the custodian demonstrate the acoustics of the Baptistery. The latter was a spine-tingling experience (I've videoed it). I don't know how often this happens: the doors were shut, 'Silencio!' was bellowed out and I expected a prayer to be said....but all of a sudden the female custodian let rip with some beautiful notes, which resonated, bell-like, throughout the whole building. It was magic, and something I suspect many visitors do not have the privilege of experiencing.

There is also the Duomo to see, and the Torre Pendante (of course). There are, by the way, three leaning towers in Pisa (bet you didn't know that: I didn't). I managed to visit them all. The one in the photo is at the church of San Michele dei Scalzi, a fair old trek along the banks of the Arno but well worth the effort!

And then onwards, to explore all the other ancient churches (they'll be in my Pisa tips and travelogues), and wander the alleyways, and generally have a throughly pleasant exploration of what is (in my opinion) a remarkably pleasant town.

Pros and Cons
  • Pros:Lots of history tucked away
  • Cons:None that I came across
  • In a nutshell:Much, much more to see than just the Tower.
  • Last visit to Pisa: Apr 2011
  • Intro Updated Apr 26, 2011
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Reviews (20)

Pisa airport hippopotami. As one would expect. - Pisa To Pisa from Florence (or vice versa) Transportation (2)

You have three choices if you land at Pisa and want to get to Florence. Either you can take the Terravision... more travel advice

LAM Rossa bus waiting outside Arrivals - Pisa To Pisa from Pisa Aeroporto Transportation (2)

Easyjet and Ryanair are amongst the European budget carriers who fly into Pisa. It's a useful starting point for an... more travel advice

Naughty monkeys - Pisa Small details on the Tower Things to Do (2)

I've never climbed the Tower, not have I ever felt the need to do so. To me, it is just a rather lovely piece of... more travel advice

Inverted Roman inscription - Pisa Look for the small details Things to Do (2)

The Duomo may be hugely impressive, but do take the time to walk around its exterior. Look carefully at its lower... more travel advice

Comments (9)

  • Reply
    hunterV's Profile Photo
    Apr 25, 2011 at 12:33 PM

    Oh, I see it's about time I paid a visit to Pisa too....

  • Reply
    Askla's Profile Photo
    Mar 16, 2009 at 6:34 AM

    A very good and informative site I think. Unfourtunately the churches you most of all want to see are often closed, that happened to me many times during my late journey to Kraków (last week) as well. Regards Lars.

  • Reply
    jumpingnorman's Profile Photo
    Feb 12, 2009 at 11:45 AM

    Nice OTBP Pisa tips! Can't wait to get on Italian soil..never been there! Looks beautiful...We'll visit Italy this Sept....Norman :)

  • Reply
    Fullmoonfever's Profile Photo
    Feb 7, 2009 at 11:53 AM

    Think I'll head to the libary. Good night J.

  • Reply
    angiebabe's Profile Photo
    Jan 19, 2009 at 11:18 AM

    geez just came to drop a note &what stunning shots uve here to tantalize!I know, i know...Pompeii!!..but Im broke!theres a yth hostel nr P. that Id stay at for el cheapo...have squished in a £30 flight to Sicily 3 feb...4 daz of almond blossoms& history!

  • Reply
    bonio's Profile Photo
    Jan 1, 2009 at 4:09 AM

    Good page, thanks for the tips, looks like you've found a hotel for us. Best wishes for '09

  • Reply
    Redang's Profile Photo
    Dec 11, 2008 at 9:13 AM

    Stunning opening pic!

  • Reply
    hivaoa1's Profile Photo
    Oct 29, 2008 at 12:54 PM

    Via delle Volte is quite dangerous at night, lots of junkies and hookers :D but it looks great at day time

  • Reply
    roamer61's Profile Photo
    Oct 27, 2008 at 10:42 AM

    Beautiful pictures. Looks like there is more to Pisa than just the Duomo, Babtistry and of course the Leaning Tower.

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