Venice Things to Do Tips by hundwalder

Venezia at last. Canale Grande gleaming in the early morning May sunlight. Where was the vast and endless multitude of tourists that the tourism gods promised me that I would encounter in this great city of legends ? They were nowhere in sight. Perhaps I was in the wrong city. But no, I was unmistakedly in legendary Venezia . There is no other city on earth like the goddess of Adriatica.

I could almost hear the emotionally charged and passionate music from Antonio's violin preserved somewhere within the water of Canale Grande. Somewhere within the crowded mix of ancient buildings shown in the photo is Papa Giovanni's barber shop. He not only gave great haircuts but he was also more skilled at surgery than the vein opening and clueless " physicians " of his time. Needless to say the barbers who still practiced medicine posed a threat to the physicians. Along with his other skills Giovanni was a violin maestro who was part of the basilica San Marco orchestra.

The appearance of the great city of Venezia has changed incredibly little during the nearly 300 years that have passed since the Vivaldi family called it home. No wonder that one can almost feel the presence of Antonio Vivaldi and other famous Venetians from days gone by. Therein lies much of the mystique, magic, and serenity of this great city.

Leave a Comment

Address: Canale Grande by vaporetto, gondola, or on foot.
Directions: A few hundred meters down Canale Grande from Sn Lucia train station. Who was counting ? Every meter of the journey is fascinating.

Ponte di Rialto is the most famous bridge in Venice and one of the best known bridges in the world.

Construction on this bridge comenced in 1588, and it was completed a few years later. The bridge and virtually every structure in Venezia are supported by long wooden pilings. Building the great city of Venezia was a monumental task. The forests of the surrounding Veneto were once nearly depleted by Venetians building their city.

I have shown the bridge up close and bathed in the early Sunday morning sunlight, so that the intricate detail of this great architectural masterpiece can be fully admired.

At the time this photo was taken, the many shops housed under the roof of the bridge were closed and shuttered while the shopkeepers either attended Mass or attended to personal matters such as sleeping. Look closely and note the absence of tourists on the bridge. This was in mid May which is not too distant from the peak of the tourist season. Lesson: Early morning is an excellent time to visit the most popular of Venezia's tourist attractions.

Visit the lesser known sites later in the day after the tourists have completely overrun the most popular ones.

Back in the days when Venezia was the leading commercial center of the world, all ships laden with imports and exports passed under the close confines of ponte di Rialto. Can you imagine the excitement when the first ever load of venetian blinds passed under this great bridge ?

Leave a Comment

Address: Ponte di Rialto
Directions: Follow the signs " per Rialto " or take the #1, 2, or 3 vaparettos if you want to pass under this most famous and historical bridge.

The basilica and adjoining palace are located directly on Canale Grande. The great architect Palladio from nearby Vicenza influenced the characteristic domed roof architecture. Construction dates from the mid 1500's. The oppulent and very ornate palace was most likely the home of those responsible for overseeing the basilica and keeping parishioners at their most humble and subservient behavior.

These great Renaissance structures are located about 500 meters from Sn. Lucia train station on the opposite shore of Canale Grande. The views of this basilica and palace are great from any of the vaporettos, and nearly as good from the wide pedestrian promenade that fronts a long stretch of the opposite shore.

Leave a Comment

Address: Canale Grande
Directions: 500 meters from Sn. Lucia train station.

Venezia's Canale Grande. My spirit of adventure and exploration had been aroused. It had been a long night of partying, riding trains, and dozing off in front of Sn Lucia train station. No problem. The long night was filled with great company from around the globe. I was definately far from the only spirited traveller exploring Venezia on a tight budget. The luggage storage facility at Sn Lucia would soon open, and I would check my backpack there. Good to be rid of the weight of it for my 9 hour expedition of the magic city. A perfect day lay ahead for me to inflict my fierce but friendly seige upon the city of mystique, musica antiqua, serenity, and amore.

Shown in this photo is the vaporetto dock closest to Sn Lucia, and chiesa dei Scalzi, which is the first of many fascinating churches you will see on your tour of Canale Grande. Often as is the case with large churches in Venezia, there is a palace adjoining chiesa dei Scalzi.

Leave a Comment

Address: Canale Grande near Sn. Lucia train station.
Directions: Catch Vaporetto #1, find a good seat, and enjoy the tour of Canale Grande

Sorry but the photo you are looking at is not of the misses and me enjoying a gondola cruise. I had to be content with watching complete strangers enjoying their romantic rides. It costs about 90 euros ( equivalent to about $145 of US funny money ) to hire one of these beauties for 45 minutes. Definately out of old hund's Oklahoma farm boy budget ! The gondolas range from plain looking to the deluxe artistically painted models with plush bucket seats. The happy couple shown in photo 1, although probably from another country, appeared to have the Italian hand gestures well mastered.

Do try limited bargaining with the gondoliers. They are flexible to an extent, but remember that need to pay their stiff taxes to the modern day doge. After all you would not want one of these gondoliers to take the dreaded walk over the bridge of sighs. Just kidding folks. They don't still that. However, I bet that some reader will still take that comment seriously, and will complain to the VT staff about old hund misleading the benevolent public.

Photo 2 shows the main gondola dock on Canale Grande. Basilica and Piazza San Marco are shown in the background. Don't you agree that they look grand from any angle. You can watch new gondolas being built and others being repaired at the adjoining gondola yard. Unfortunately I visited on Sunday when the yard was closed, but still thoroughly enjoyed my visit.

Leave a Comment

Address: Just west of Piazza San Marco.
Directions: Don't need directions. Gonolas can be rented all over Venezia. However, the best selection is at the gondola dock / yard shown in photo 2. The dock is also an interesting place to visit and watch people.

One of the great theaters of old Venezia. The Byzantine influence on Venezia's architecture is evident here and throughout the city. A cast iron bell hangs over the entrance to remind patrons that a performance was ready to start. The winged lion symbol of San Marco ( St. Mark ) adorns the roof of the theater.

Many great musical and theatrical productions were staged at Teatro Italia over the past 500 years or so, and they continue to this day. Imagine the many legendary performers who lived in or visited old Venezia who have graced its stage throughout the centuries. As you tour its hallowed interior keep in mind that most of what you see in this great theater is original and not a modern day restoration. I cannot think of any theater in the world that has a more interesting legacy than Teatro Italia. Bravo !

Leave a Comment

Address: On the main tourist route
Directions: Between Ponte Rialto and Piazza San Marco

The Doges Palace ( Palazzo Ducale ) is a palace as big as a football stadium ( 152 meters long ) where the Doge resided and ruled the Venetian empire with an iron hand from about AD 750 to 1790. Because the palace dominates San Marco Square, it is not difficult to find.

What a lot of blood, sweat, and tears went into the construction of this monument to upper crust vanity. One can only speculate how many man hours went into the construction and artwork of this overwhelming palace. The architectural detail is absolutely amazing, and photographs alone cannot do it justice. The palace was built almost entirely of marble and granite. It was rebuilt in about 1200, and the lavish exterior columns and sculptures are about 600 years old. Best of all, most of the palace is original and not a recreation.

Byzantine, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture are all displayed in this truly unique spare no expense palace. I would have gone inside but the exterior alone was overwhelming enough and I was running seriously short of very precious euros. Perhaps when I return.

It is incomprehensible that this incredible palace for the most point served as the residence and governing seat of only one man.

As they say in Venezia, Viva Vivaldi and down with the doge !

Leave a Comment

Address: San Marco Squaro

I call it the bridge of shame and injustice. This 400 year old bridge connects the Palazzo Ducale with the dungeons on the other side of the small canal. Accused criminals received a fair trial ( and hippos can fly ) in the palace of the Doges and then were immediately hustled across this bridge into the dungeons or the gallows. In many cases when they looked out of the disgustingly ornate windows it was their last glimpse of anything other than dungeon walls.

Notice the intricate designs on and of the bridge and its superb craftsmanship. Who were they trying to impress ? It made me wonder how many of the hapless petty criminals who were herded across this bridge of shame had earlier put so much effort into building either it or the palace of vanity connected to it. I enjoyed seeing the great architecture of Venice, and while doing so, thought of the craftsmen who created it, and not those whose vanity it was built to inflate.

Give this tip a bad rating if you find it offensive. Sorry but I need to vent off steam somewhere.

Leave a Comment

Address: behind the Doges Palace
Directions: Piazza San Marco

All five front entrances to the Basilica are adorned with brilliant mosaics, inclusions that look like sparkling jewels, and other intricately carved marble and granite features. This mosaic is of the body of The Christos being taken down from the cross and prepared for burial. The mosaics are some of the best quality I have ever seen. Construction of the Basilica commenced in AD 1063, and even its present stuning appearance dates back 800 years. The basilica is enormous, measuring 176 meters at its longest dimension. The craftsmanship is the best I have seen anywhere.

Most tourists assume the massive and dominating Basilica di San Marco to be the Catholic cathedral of Venezia. However, it never has been. Note it's location adjacent to the Doges palace. The basilica was indeed a private place of worship for the doge and other wealthy elite of the Venezian empire. Commoners except those hired to perform, were strictly forbidden from entering. The acoustics of the basilica rival those of any theater in the world. Some of the world's greatest composers composed pieces specifically intended to be performed there. Most of the music especially crafted for this basilica can be described as religious music with a spicy secular flare.

I have definately seen nothing like Basilica di San Marco in all of my travels. Just to think that Mark Twain said that it looks like a warty bug taking a walk. Everybody has an opinion. Must have been some amazing looking bugs inhabiting the Hanibal, Missouri area.

Leave a Comment

Address: Piazza San Marco
Directions: Follow the crowds

The Basilica of San Marco is probably the most memorable and artistic building that I have ever visited. Most of what you see of the exterior is about 800 years old. The craftsmanship and the quality of construction defies anything that I have ever seen. The mosaics above the five front entranceways and throughout the interior of the basilica are masterpieces. There are thousands of square meters of them. Exquisite sculpture, carving, and artistic shapes are found throughout the entire 180 meter long complex. Byzantine and gothic architecture are blended in perfect harmony.

hint: Buy a 3 euro " museum " ticket which gives you excellent views of the basilica from the messanine level, free reign of the excellent museum, which includes the original famous statue of the horses and detailed well preserved intricate mosaics, and the chance to walk around on the vast exterior balconies. Waiting time in line is a fraction of the wait for the free entance to the basilica. You will probably spend a lot of money to visit Venezia. Don't spend 2 hours of your time standing in line for a 10 minute free visit of the basilica interior.

Venetian crusaders looted and exhumed the tomb of San Marco ( the author of the gospel of St. Mark ) at Alexandria, Egypt, in AD 828, returned his remains to Venezia, stored them with the Doges for a couple hundred years, then built this incredible basilica to house them. This gave Venezia the religious prominance this commercial power had long hungered for. Many more looted treasures adorn the basilica and piazza. The symbol of San Marco is the ever present winged lion, seen displayed in a central position of prominance over the grand entrance way.

Leave a Comment

Address: Piazza San Marco
Directions: Follow the crowds and the pigeons. A million dirty birds cannot be wrong.