Florence Restaurant Tips by Sonador3

Ristorante Alle Murate: Cutting Edge Italian

'm having a hard time trying to describe this place. Modern? Innovative? Cutting edge? Probably all of those labels apply. Out of all of the restaurants in Italy, this one inspired me more than any other when I finally got to write my own menu for my first restaurant. The food they make is cutting edge -- even more so than Cibreo, which rarely changes it's menu.

The dining room is warm and friendly. When you sit down, you are greeted with a complimentary glass of spumante. And the best part of the service was the timing and what I like to call "invisable man" service. Meaning you never have to ask for anything. The best restaurants seem to have an uncanny knack for knowing exactly what you want without needing to ask for it. They'll never take a plate away too early, or let you linger forever between courses, nor will they try to rush you.

As for the food, Everything here is extremely fresh here, from the sauces made from scratch to the pasta made fresh daily.

All in all, I felt like I was in the dining room of someplace really special. Though it's pretty expensive, I would recommend you try this place at least once a trip -- you'll never look at Italian food the same way again. The wine list is very impressive as well.

Favorite Dish: First Course: Tuscan White Bean Soup w/ Chopped Shrimp

Second Course: Large Tortellini stuffed with Aubergine Purée, Parmesan, Thyme and Butter

Third Course: Leek Souflee with Duck Sauce

Fourth Course: Pot Roast wirh a Garlic Potato Puree

Fifth Course: Apple Tart with Almond and Fruit Sauce AND Lemon Sorbet

Address: Via Ghibellina 52r

Comparison: most expensive

Directions: Located inside of the fourteenth-century Palazzo Salviati

Phone: 055 - 29 10 82

Price: US$41 and up

Rating: 5

Theme: Italian

Website: http://www.caffeitaliano.it/inglese/locali_caffe_italiano/murate.asp

Osteria Santo Spirito: Trendy, Hip, Offbeat Restaurant

A very trendy and hip looking restaurant that doesn't miss the mark. Usually when a place seems pretentious, their food doesn't live up to the hype, but this place does.

It's located in the Piazza Santo Spirito, and though this restaurant is not found on many guide books, it's definately one you need to take note of. The menu consists of typical Tuscan dishes that are done with a contemporary flare. During the summer months they offer outside seating, which is good if you are into people watching like I am.

Service is very good, and not professionally snobby, as can sometimes be the case -- especially in the more touristy places.

And the food was excellent the two times I went there. But unfortunately for this review I had the same dish on both occasions.

Favorite Dish: Bistecca alla Fiorentina with white beans and a salad of Arugula dressed with rich, dark olive oil and Balsalmic and topped with shaved Parmesan! Oh yeah, baby!!! I looove arugula!!!

Address: Piazza Santo Spirito 16r

Comparison: about average

Directions: Located on the other side of the Arno in Oltrarno, in the Piazza Santo Spirito

Phone: 055.238.2383

Price: US$21-30

Rating: 4

Theme: Italian

Caffè Pasticceria Gilli: Expensive and Touristy but worth it!

OK, I know I'm probably going to get hammered for even suggesting somebody go to a place as touristy and seemingly pretentions as Gilly. But I really like it here. You can't miss it situated on the corner of the Piazza della Repubblica. You can sit in one of the seats outside -- pay the premium -- and sit here for a few hours. I mean, why not? The pastries are excellent and the coffee and drinks are right up there. It may not be service with a smile, but it is prompt. I usually go there in the late afternoon for an appertif, lean against the bar eat the free hors d'ourves. Truely, eating inside is not much pricier than any of the more out of the way places. It gets a bum rap as being touristy. But stand at the bar and see what I mean -- 90% of the clientel are locals. And now that Giacosa has closed, Gilli is my upscale favorite!

Favorite Dish: Cafe, Salmone Panini, Tartufo Panini, and a great selection of pralines and other assorted candies. Why not? Just live a little!!

Address: Piazza della Repubblica 39r

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: Located at the NE corner of the Piazza della Repubblica, cross street via Roma

Phone: 055 213896

Price: less than US$10

Rating: 4

Theme: Italian

Website: http://www.localistorici.it/scheda.lasso?operatore=eq&add_nazione=Italia&go_to=39&citta_ricerca=&nome_ricerca=&categoria_ricerca=

Buca Lapi: Classic Florentine Restaurant

A classic Florentine restaurant and one of the city's best. Though it's located in the center of the city and is a little hard to find, it's worth the effort. Walking down the stairs into the basement of the building, you pass by the kitchen and can watch the cooks at work. The restaurant ambiance is warm and the decor a bit quirky. But the service is excellent and the food is outstanding. The larger cuts of meat (ie, the Bistecca alla Fiorentina) are cut tableside -- just like in the photo. I absolutely love it here.

Favorite Dish: The menu is huge, but I only saw one item (talk about tunnel vision): The Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Order this along with an Arugula Salad and a Chianti.

Address: Via Del Trebbio, 1/r

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: In the city center near the cross stree via Tournabuoni

Phone: 055/213768

Price: US$31-40

Rating: 5

Theme: Italian

Il Cibreo: Nouveau Italian

Il Cibreo is not your typical Italian restaurant, and that's what makes it so special. Some people refer to chef Fabio as the Alice Waters of Italy, and that's a pretty accurate assesment. The cuisine here is a combination of modern and traditional Tuscan; no pasta served. What they do serve is seasoned simply to let the natural flavors of the dish stand out. The stuffed chicken neck I had on my last trip was served at just above room temperature -- any warmer would have changed the flavor of the dish. The flavors are at times subtle and sublime, while at others they seem to just explode.

Il cibreo is actually 3 different eating areas. There is the main dining room and the trattoria (aka the sala dei poveri or "poor room") where they have the same menu as the dining room except everything is half price. And across the street is the bar/cafe, "Caffe Cibreo" where you can have some tasty snacks, drinks and a few dishes.

Come here with an open mind and be prepared to try things you may have never considered, ie: lambs hoof and pidgeon and the stuffed chicken neck with the head still attached!!!

The service is extremely helpful -- especially in the main dining room. If you don't understand any of the food terms, just ask your server. And they now have a cook book, which chef Fabio will be happy to sign.

Favorite Dish: Along with the usual Crostini Toscana, I never miss the Tomato Flan, spiced with black pepper it's a marvelous first course. The Yellow Pepper soup is simple and perfect every time. It's been on the menu for years. The Ribollita -- vegetable and bread soup -- is another staple. You get the idea. There is almost no way to go wrong with ordering anything.

Address: Via dei Macci, 118r

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: Next to the San Ambrogio market in the Santa Croce district.

Phone: 055 234 1100

Price: US$31-40

Rating: 5

Theme: Italian

Website: http://www.cibreo.com/

Ristorante Natalino: Good Pasta

A pleasant old (120y.o.) restaurant in an old church building. Plenty of paintings line the walls, and the restaurant had a nice feel to it. It must be fun when it's full of customers, though when I went I was the only one there (for lunch). Typically brusque service and the food was good -- though not great.

Favorite Dish: I ordered the gnocchi alla sugo. It was good, although it took a while to get it. The glass of house Chianti I had was decent. I would like to go back in the evening sometime to sample their grilled meats as they claim them to be their specialty.

Address: Borgo degli Albizi, 17/r Florence

Comparison: about average

Directions: Located in the Santa Croce district in the former church of Santo Piero Maggiore

Phone: 055/289-404

Price: US$11-20

Rating: 3

Theme: Italian

Website: http://www.florence.ala.it/natalino/

Il Latini: Tuscan Meat Heaven

This is one of the most crowded and nosiest restaurants in all of Florence. Huge 100 year old wooden tables and and a convivial Tuscan spirit make it a great place to make friends. Smoked Hams line the walls and old time photos and other Italian decorations add to the ambiance. A

ntipasti meats are sliced to order and service is brusque but friendly.

Favorite Dish: Meat is their speciality! Try the Ribollita (Tuscan Bread Soup) and the Salsicca y Canellini (Sausage and beans). They also make a mean Florentine Steak. But not to be missed is the Spiedini misti (mixed meat grill). This is not haute cusine -- more of a country place. And in my opinion just a little overpriced.

Address: Via dei Palchetti 6/r Florence, Italy

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: Near the center, cross street via del Spada

Phone: 055/210916

Price: US$21-30

Rating: 4

Theme: Italian

Website: http://www.illatini.com

Trattoria Sostanza-Troia: Neighborhood Trattoria

I like this place because I usually travel to Italy solo and here they seat you at a table with a lot of other people, and you're kind of forced to make conversation. The food is simple and delicious. They have a wonderful Tortellini in brodo and the grilled meats are top notch.

This restaurant is located on a street that has a lot of hookers -- hence the name. Though in recent trips the neighborhood seems "quieter" than in earlier trips.

Favorite Dish: Bisteca Fiorentina, served rare. But these days you'll have to order it without the bone as it's no longer legal to serve meat on the bone. Also, Sostanza is very popular, so make reservations.

Address: Via Porcellana 25r

Comparison: about average

Phone: 055-212691

Price: US$21-30

Rating: 4

Theme: Italian

Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco: Oltrarno Trattoria

This is a very cozy, somewhat noisy trattoria about 300M from the Ponte Vecchio. I stumbled upon this restaurant quite by accident, and was very happy I did. I ate there 3 times on my last trip and each time I had an excellent meal. By the end of the first visit they knew my name and I always felt comfortable -- even though I was a solo diner. Ask for Massimo or Marco -- they are there every night!

Favorite Dish: My favorite dish is the "Tagliata con Rucola e Parmigiano", which is a tasty, perfectly cooked New York cut, served with arugula dressed in olive oil and shaved parmesan. One of my all-time favorite dishes. Order this with a half-liter of their house chianti and you'll be in heaven.

Address: Borgo S. Jacopo, 43 R.

Comparison: about average

Directions: Cross the Ponte Vecchio, make a right on Borgo S. Jocopo, go down 300 meters and it's on the left.

Phone: 055 / 21-57-06

Price: US$11-20

Rating: 5

Theme: Italian

Website: http://www.cinghialebianco.it/