Tips 1 - 6 of 6 San Michele Things to Do
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Things To Do: Ossario Commune
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This was the first area that I looked around on San Michele- row upon row of stone plaques, each with an inscription and a small vase, many of which contained flowers. Some had a glass framed photograph - most of these were black and white and were probably taken by a professional photographer in the days when most people didn't own a camera, but paid for a formal portrait picture.
Venetians buried on the island, usually are left in peace for around 10 - 12 years, before the body is exhumed, the bones are placed in metal boxes and placed in the ossiary for a fee.
If the deceased has wealthy descendants, they may pay for the body to remain in the grave, or if they can't afford these 2 options, or there aren't any relatives alive, the body is placed in a communal boneyard.
When I first saw the sign to the Ossiary, I was a bit uncertain as to what I'd find. I'd seen a TV programme a few months previously (I think it was Francesco Da Mostos Italy series), where decomposing bodies of priests were displayed in a crypt. I was fairly relieved not to be confronted by such an eerie sight.
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Address: Ossario Commune, San Michele, Venice
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Things To Do: Tomb of Sergei Diagilev Greci or Orthodox section
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Many visitors to the cemetery come to see this grave, either to pay their respects to the Russian born ballet impresario, who founded the Ballets Russe, with such world renowned dancers as Pavlova and Nijinsky(who was one of his lovers) or because it's one of the graves that's signposted!
Apparently his burial was interrupted by one of his fans leaping into the grave!
As You can see from the picture, his tomb is strewn with gifts, often ballets shoes are left. A tradition is to leave small stones as a sign of honour on the tombs.
Near to Diaghilevs tomb are those of his favourite composer Igor Stravinsky and Ivors wife Vera, who are buried side by side under identical stone slabs.
Stravinsky acually died in New York, but had requested to be buried here. Not only did he get his wish, but his funeral in San Giovanni e Paolo was equal to that of a doge!
Also in this Orthodox or Greci section are the tombs of Russian princesses, diplomats and other ex-pats.
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Address: Orthodox or Greci section San Michele
Directions: Follow the signposts to the Greci or Orthodox area
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Things To Do: Military Section
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This section of the Cemetery was for those members of the Italian Navy, Army and Air force. Each grave was marked with a paper Italian flag - similar to the ones that as a child I placed on sand castles at the seaside!
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Things To Do: Gondoliers Graves
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As this is the island cemetery for Venetians, it is only to be expected that some of the graves will hold gondoliers.
However, I was quite saddened to come across the tomb of a gondolier who was only a few years younger than me.
As You can see from my photos, the graves of these gondoliers were well tended, both had the gondola Ferro insignia (Please see my Venice Local customs (Gondola 3 ) for more info)
There are most likely other Gondoliers graves on San Michele, but these are the ones I came across
It is tradition, that the widows of Gondoliers who die, inherit their husbands Gondolier licence
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Address: San Michelle, Venice
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Things To Do: Greci or Orthodox section
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Many people visit this section to see the graves of Diaghilev and Stravinsky, 2 of San Micheles most famous occupants.
The entrance is guarded by 2 stone lions.
Many of the graves hold Russian princesses, who resided in Venice.
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Things To Do: Monument to Victims of the Civil War
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I took a photo of this monument, noted that it was for victims of the civil war, then moved onto the next point of interest.
It wasn't until I got home and was looking at my photos, ready to download onto VT, that I suddenly thought - What Civil War? Was this in Italy and when? - scrambling into my memories of History classes at school didn't come up with any answers - so my friend - Google was the next step.
to be continued......
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More San Michele Tips
| Overview | Things to Do
Tips: 6 - Photos: 16 | Restaurants
Tips: 1 - Photos: 1 | Hotels & Accommodations | | Nightlife | Off The Beaten Path
Tips: 1 - Photos: 2 | | Tourist Traps | Warnings Or Dangers | Transportation
Tips: 1 - Photos: 2 | Local Customs | | Packing Lists | Shopping | | Sports Travel | General Tips |
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on Nov 3, 2009
