Rialto Bridge and other Venice, Italy Off The Beaten Path Tips

Rialto Bridge bas relief San Marco

side

by suvanki , 3 more photos

SAN POLO AND SANTA CROCE

OK, So the Rialto Bridge isn't off the beaten track - but something that might be missed by those crossing over it or passing underneath, are the stone bas relief angels and saints adorning the bases of the bridge.

The possible reason for these being here, is that in earlier times, many people were afraid of crossing water, so needed to put their trust in religious or supernatural powers to guide them on their way, either across or under the bridge.

On the facade of the bridge facing towards San Silvestro and Ca'd'Oro can be seen Saint Mark and Saint Theodore. On the opposite facade, The Annunciation - where an Angel, A Virgin and the Holy Ghost look out over the Grand Canal towards S. Angelo and S. Toma.

Vaporetto - RIALTO

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Churches: San Nicolo da Tolentino -

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Updated by suvanki

on Mar 28, 2009

San Nicolo da Tolentino

by suvanki , 1 more photos

SANTA CROCE Sestieri
Vaporetto - PIAZZALLE ROMA
Campo dei Tolentini, Santa Croce 265

The unusual feature to look out for, is to be seen on the facade of this church.

Behind the Corinthian porch, to the right of the door is a cannon ball embedded in the wall with the date 1849. (see 2nd photo) This has remained as a memorial to the Austrian siege of 1849

The church was closed during my visit, a young man was carefully washing down the steps with a water hosepipe. It looked as if there was some renovation work being done to the outside.

Commonly known as the Tolentini, the church is modelled on Palladios' Villa Malcontenta (which can be seen as a day trip along the Brenta Canal, which flows from Venice to near Padova).

Designed in 1716 by Andrea Tirali, the Roman looking facade dominates the Campo Tolentini.

It was built for the Theatine Order, which had been founded in Rome in the 16th Century. During the sack of Rome in 1527, this Order fled to the Dorsoduro sestieri in Venice, before moving to Santa Croce, and organising this church and a convent to be built (this now is home to the University Architectural faculty).

Vincenzo Scamozzi was the architect. However, there was a disagreement by the Theatines and Scamozzi, which meant that the facade was left unfinished.

Although it was consecrated in 1601, it wasn't until 1706 that the classical Greek - Roman columns were added by the architect Andrea Tiralir, who completed this Temple front in 1714.

The Saint Nicholas of this church is a 13th Century Italian, and not the one associated with Christmas! His miracles include resurrecting over one hundred dead children, which included several who had drowned.

Nicholas was a vegetarian, who was once served a roasted fowl; After making the sign of the cross over it, it came alive and flew to safety out of a window.

An apparition of the saint once saved the burning palace of the Doge of Venice by throwing a piece of blessed bread on the flames.

It's interior is quite a contrast apparently - with typical Baroque 'fanfare'! coloured marbles, gilding, frescoes, and putti (LINK)
The Rococo stucco work was added by an artist/pastry chef!

Works of art to be seen include 'St Jerome Visited by an Angel' by Johann Lys in 1628, ' The Banquet in the House of Herod' and ' Decapitation of the Baptist' by Bonifazio de Pitati.

The high altar and choir are by Baldassare Longhena.

The church has been witness to some dramatic events - In Feb 1789, Doge Paolo Renier died, he was quite unpopular, and even more so when his death co-incided with Carnivale - so rather than interrupt the festivities by organising a State funeral, he was buried secretly here, in the middle of the night.

In 1685, Francesco Morosini, had led the re conquest of the Morea, and presented the church with a banner that he'd captured from a Turkish General - this was complete with 3 horse tails!

Its interior holds the tomb of this Venetian patriarch who died in 1678.

This Monument is by the sculptor Filippo Parodi, and features Morosini reclining, while angels pull aside drapes above him!

Open Mon - Sat 09.30 - 1100 and 1700 - 1830

Free admission

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Phone: 041 522 21 60

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Back Street Canals: Ponte de Chiodo - The Bridge with no parapets

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Written by suvanki

on Jan 7, 2008

Ponte Chiodo Cannaregio Venice

CANNAREGIO

This bridge is unusual, as it has no parapets.

Originally Venices bridges were all designed like this, but as more and more of the citizens were falling off the bridges into the canals, railings and walls were added. Apparently 'Il Gazzatinno' - Venices daily paper used to print daily charts of the people who'd taken an acccidental dip the previous day.

This, and the Devils Bridge on Torcello, are the only remaining examples of bridges without parapets in Venice.

The bridge leads into a B&B 3749 Ponte Chiodo Which looks a nice place to stay

Directions-
Vaporetto Station -Ca'd' Oro.

Probably best to check the hotels web site (click on link above) for detailed explanation of how to find the hotel, then the bridge should be nearby

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Off The Beaten Path: Scuola dei Calegheri

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Written by suvanki

on Apr 26, 2009

Scuola dei Calegheri

SAN POLO AND SANTA CROCE

VAPORETTO -SAN TOMA

In Campo San Toma, at the opposite end to the church, look out for this red brick building.
This was the shoemakers guild. If you look below the bas relief, in the door lintel, there is a shoe carved into the stone.

The bas relief is by Pietro Lombardo (1478) and shows Saint Mark healing Ananias, who was a cobbler.

The building is now used as a public library.

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Off The Beaten Path: Corte Prima del Milion and Corte Seconda del Milio

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 26, 2009

Corte Prima del Milion Canareggio

Venice

by suvanki , 4 more photos

CANNAREGIO

Wandering around, I'd spotted a gondolier pointing out a building to his passengers, and heard him say 'Marco Polo'. Looking up, I spotted a plaque, which I think indicates the house where Marco Polo lived.

I passed through a sottoportego and found myself walking underneath an archway decorated with intricate Byzantine carved patterns. Apparently this dates back to the 12th Century. I saw further Byzantine emblems on the wall of the Courtyard that I'd walked into. This first courtyard was Corte Seconda del Milion (pics 2-4)

As I carried on a bit further I came into another enclosed yard, which was named Corte Prima del Milion. Above a restaurant door was another plaque. Consulting my guide book, I finally found that this and the first courtyard were where Marco Polo and his family had lived. The family house formed part of the building that houses the Teatro Malibran.

After spending 17 years in the court of Kublai Khan, in the Far East, Marco Polo returned to Venice in 1295. His tales of this exotic land and his encounters were recalled with some exaggeration. His habit of quoting vast numbers led to him being nick - named Il Milione (The Million) Presumably this didn't offend him, as he titled his memoirs Il Milione. This piece of work was to be the first written account of Asian life to appear in the West, and was to be unrivalled for many centuries. It was completed in 1298, while a prisoner of the Genoese. There is still some controversy as to the authenticity of his travels and exploits

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Off The Beaten Path: Stone Mason

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Updated by suvanki

on Mar 17, 2008

Stone Mason, Cannaregio, Venice

CANNAREGIO

From Fondamente Nuova vaporetto station I'd set off to explore Cannaregio. I hadn't got any place in mind to aim for, I was just enjoying exploring the narrow streets.

On one of the deserted streets, I nearly walked past this window. When I peered in I spotted this gentleman, busy at work on a stone plaque, engraving the shape with an electrical drill.

The thing that attracted me to look longer, and made me smile, was his head ware, fashioned out of a newspaper!

A few months after I'd returned home, I was reading a book by Paula Weideger (an American woman who'd described her experiences of living in Cannaregio) called 'Venetian Dreaming' and I was surprised to read her describing the scene I'd witnessed!

* This is the kind of thing I enjoy, wandering around the uncrowded streets, never knowing what is around the next corner, behind a wall, or above You. Sometimes what you come across is more memorable than the 'Must See' sights, and often for free!

VAPORETTO _ FONDAMENTE NUOVA

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Back Street Canals: Ponte dei Pugni -Bridge of Fists!

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 26, 2009

Ponte dei Pugni -Bridge of Fists!

by suvanki , 1 more photos

DORSODURO
Also known as San Barnabas bridge

Apparently there are other bridges in Venice called Ponte dei Pugni, but this is the only one with marble/ Istrian stone footprints, marking the places where the boxers stood. (Please see 2nd photo)
It spans the Rio San Barnaba

These bridges were built in the days before parapets were required.

The fights were common practice, and were sanctioned. It was seen as a way to allow the working classes to use their aggression on each other, rather than turning it against the state!
The fights took place between September and Christmas each year.

Neighbourhoods chose their champion fighters, to scrap for the honour of 'their patch' or arguments were settled between individuals, on similar bridges around Venice. There was a formal etiquette involved in offering the challenge and in initiating the fight.

The opponents would meet in the centre of the bridge to fight, they placed their feet on the foot prints as the starting position. the losers falling into the water below. Fighting involved Bare knuckles, or the use of steel tipped stiffened rush lances. These lances were banned in 1574, after a particularly gruesome battle, that had been arranged to co-incide with the visit to Venice of King Henry 3rd of France.

These fights were well attended by crowds lining the banks, cheering 'their man ' on, or shouting threats and abuse at the rival opponent and his supporters (a bit like today's soccer supporters!) so it's hardly surprising that after the fight had finished, it generally became a free for all, known as the frotta It wasn't unusual for multiple fatalities to occur - either by drowning in the canals or from the extent of their injuries.

The bridges were the site of many battles between the Castellini and Nicoletti.
The inhabitants of the area of Dorsoduro around the church of San Nicolo dei Mendicoli, which was considered the San Marco of the area, were known as Nicolotti, and those who had their HQ in Castello were identified as the Castellini.

The battles between the 2 neighbourhoods became so violent, that they were finally banned by law in 1705.

The fighters places on the bridge have now been taken over by tourists taking pics.

The time I visited, I think I was the only non local on the bridge trying to get a photo of the footprints - there was plenty of to-ing and fro-ing by locals hurrying across the bridge, with Christmas preparations in mind!

Vaporetto - CA' REZZONICO

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Churches: Chiesa San Barnaba

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Updated by suvanki

on Feb 5, 2009

San Barnaba

by suvanki , 1 more photos

DORSODURO Sestiere
Vaporetto - Ca' Rezzonico
Campo San Barnaba Dorsoduro 2771

I was wandering around, when I came upon this church, which was holding an exhibition of Leonardo de Vincis machines - Apparently this exhibition has been touring world wide, and the Venice exhibition finishes at the end of this year. I decided to go and have a look-it cost me 6 euros. I think there were about 20 exhibits, plus a video showing more aspects of his work. There was also a merchandise stall with books, post cards, t shirts etc.

If you've seen the 1989 film 'Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade' the rat scene in the library was filmed here. Earlier (1955) Katherine Hepburn fell into the adjacent canal in a famous scene from the film 'Summertime' ('Summer Madness' was its UK title)

The church is normally free to enter and is open 0030 - 1230 and 1500 -1900.

Its foundations date back to the 9th century, the present church is its 3rd re construction, dating from 1749, but its' brick, square shaped campanile dates back to the 11th century (among Venices oldest).
San Barnaba is copied on of the Gesuati (to be found on Zaterre near the Vaporetto stop)
The facade is of classical style, with its Corinthian style columns and triangular pediment.

Due to the exhibition, It wasn't possible to see much of the churches interior (screens hid any views)

Apparently, there is a single nave with 3 side altars.

The ceiling features a trompe l'oeil painting of 'St Barnabas in Glory' by Constantino Cedini, who was a follower of Tiepolo. There is also a 14th C Veronese' The Holy Family'

Historically, the area around the church offered cheap rents to the Barnaboti (residents of this neighbourhood). During the 18th century, many noblemen, down on their luck, moved into the area for this reason. One stipulation was that they weren't allowed to work, another was that they had to wear silk! So it was a common site to see sumptiously dressed beggars!

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Off The Beaten Path: Squero di San Trovaso - Gondola workshop

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 26, 2009

Squero di San Trovaso- Gondola

workshop

by suvanki , 2 more photos

DORSODURO

This is one of Venices few remaining gondola workshops. It has a Tyroleon/ Alpine farmhouse style - with its wooden chalet buildings and window boxes brimming with red geraniums.

This is due to the fact that many of the original gondola builders came to Venice from the villages of the Dolomites.

The boatyard was established in the 17th Century, so it is the oldest of the 5 remaining gondola workshops in Venice. (Other squeri are located on the Rio dell' Avogaria, the Rio dei Mendicanti next to the hospital, and behind the Ognissanti convent. I think I saw one near the Molino Stucky on Giudecca too)

In 16th century Venice, there were 10,000 gondolas working on the canals and 14,000 in the 18th Century when it was the main form of transport.

Nowadays, the number of Gondolas in service is about 500, and these are mainly used in the tourist trade, so they still keep the squeri in business, although production has slowed down to about 10 new gondolas per year.

There is still restoration and maintainance work required though to keep the gondolas 'ship shape'

This Squeri isn't open to the public, but if You walk along the Fondamente of the Rio Trovaso, on the opposite bank, You can see the workshops and Alpine like buildings.

The Museo Storico Navale (Naval History Museum) in Castello has a display of the construction of a gondola.

I walked past on Christmas Eve afternoon, so there was no work going on, but I could see an upturned gondola, that was being worked on as well as stacks of wood panels, presumably waiting to be made into new gondolas.

Vaporetto - ZATTERE

Next to Chiesa San Trovaso

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Churches: Santa Maria della Visitazione

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 26, 2009

Santa Maria della Visitazione