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San Marco Vallaresso- Arriving from airport. and other Venice, Italy Things to Do Tips

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suvanki    
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Real Name: Sue
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San Marco and Piazza: San Marco Vallaresso- Arriving from airport.
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  • Updated by suvanki on Jun 15, 2008
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  • SAN MARCO
    This is the start of my mini tour of San Marco to the Rialto Bridge


    Alighting at the Alilaguna water bus stop, from Marco Polo airport you are within a few minutes of some of Venices' most famous and historic sights situated in and around St Marks Piazzo.


    However, there are a few things to see on the short walk to the Piazzo

    In front of you is the legendary
    Harrys Bar , famed for its invention of the Bellini cocktail- made with the juice of fresh white peaches, and Prosecco - the sparkling wine of the Veneto region.

    Behind you, is the landmark church of San Maria della Salute, with its' domed roof, and the Dogana di Mare (Customs House) - a golden ball supported by a pair of Atlases sits on its rooftop. These are situated in Dorsoduro , and is the point where the Bacino di San Marco waterway becomes The Grand Canal.

    After admiring the view, and enjoying those first few minutes of arriving for the first time, or re-visiting for the umpteenth time, we head along to our next attraction


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    San Marco and Piazza: SAN MARCO - Giardinetti Reali
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  • Updated by suvanki on Jan 7, 2009
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  • SAN MARCO

    Turning right from the San Marco Vaporetta stop, you will soon come across this small garden on your left hand side. Originally the site of the state granary (Fontegheto della Farina), but the gardens creator (Eugene de Beauharnais) decided to demolish it to enable visitors to the ballroom of the Ala Napoleonica in St Marks Square to have a view of the lagoon.

    Entering through cast iron gates, the park has a few seats scattered amongst its' shrubs and grassed areas which offer a place to rest your feet after all the walking around Venices sights.

    It's also one of the few areas around San Marco that You're allowed to eat ' Al Fresco' - (Please see my Warning and Dangers tip for more info)

    Next to the garden is a pavillion of a neoclassical style called the Casino da Caffe , also designed by Beauharnais. This is now a Tourist Information office and gift shop. You can buy concert tickets here.
    The door can be quite difficult to push, I walked away, thinking it was locked, then went back for another try- saw many others do the same - also each time I've visited there has been a long queue for info - 1 person manning the desk, and lots of people wanting info/ tickets etc.

    Also next to the gardens is one of the few Public toilets in Venice- from my guide book I understand public WC's are open 0700 or 0800 to 2100hrs and are all wheelchair accessable.
    I'm not sure if you have to pay, or if there is an attendant expecting a tip.

    In front of the garden are a few kiosks selling souvenirs including masks, postcards, films etc. (Don't worry there are loads more further on!)


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    Address: Giardinetti Reali, San Marco
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    San Marco and Piazza: Piazzetta San Marco
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  • Updated by suvanki on Mar 12, 2008
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  • Two Columns and Doges Palace Venice
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  • SAN MARCO

    Piazzetta San Marco is the 'doorway' onto San Marco Piazza, where years ago, seafaring visitors and traders would arrive into the city.

    It is hard to imagine that at one time, part of this terrace was a garden, where turnips etc were grown to feed the nuns of nearby San Zaccaria. Later, its name of Broglia (kitchen garden), became well known as the area where deals were made, and politicians ensured that they would be favoured by gaining votes at election time.


    2 granite Columns of San Marco and San Teodoro - dominate the Piazzetta - these are one of Venices oldest symbols and were 'acquired' as loot in 1170- A 3rd column sunk into the waters of the Bacino di San Marco while it was being unloaded.
    Public executions were often held between the columns, the last recorded being Domenico Storti in 1752, who murdered his brother. Superstitious Venetians avoid walking between the 2 columns.

    To the left of the Piazetta, is
    La Zecca (The Mint) , which is part of its neighbouring building The Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana or Libreria Sansoviniana.

    Opposite, on the right hand side of the Piazzetta is The Doges Palace or Palazzo Ducal , which is next door to St. Marks Basillica.

    I'll return to these sights soon in more detail, (page 2 of my tips) but first I'll continue along the waterfront-


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    Address: San Marco Piazetta
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    San Marco and Piazza: The Molo
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  • Updated by suvanki on Mar 12, 2008
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  • Gondolas on The Molo, Venice
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  • SAN MARCO

    The Molo is the area of waterfront of the Pizzetta San Marco
    , here is one of the places where excursion boats to Murano (and its glass factories) depart and arrive, water taxis and gondolas await to empty your purse!!! You can haggle for a fairer price, but I've been told that you might get a better deal for a gondola ride at one of the 'off the beaten track' gondola stops. (Be aware that some of the 'cheaper rides' may be with unlicensed gondoliers though!)
    (To visit Murano independently, you can get a vaporetto No 41 or 42 from nearby San Zaccaria - check the route before you board. Otherwise, head for Fondamente Nuova, where vaporettos including the 41/42 head for Murano and the other lagoon islands)

    I'm afraid that I have no idea of the starting price for gondola rides- my 'out of date' guidebook mentions an official price of 62 euros for 50 min ride which rises to 77.50 euros after 20.00hrs plus 31 euros for each extra 25 minutes- in high season a premium 'unofficial' rate may be negotiated.

    Some official guided tours include a gondola ride as part of their tour price.
    Please read my local customs tips for lots more info on gondolas and gondoliers and for the reasons why the cost of riding in one of these vessels is so expensive.
    A cheap alternative, is to do as the locals do, and take a 50 cent crossing by traghetto - not as romantic, but quite fun as you stand up all the way - see my transport tips for pics and info


    It's a pleasant area to wander, lots of photo opps for Gondola shots, water reflections etc, especially early morning or at sunset.

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    Address: The Molo, San Marco, Venice
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    Bridges: Ponte della Paglia - The Straw Bridge
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  • Updated by suvanki on Feb 12, 2009
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  • SAN MARCO

    Continuing along the Molo, with the Doges Palace on Your left, You'll soon come to a bridge. The Ponte della Paglia, or the Straw Bridge (pic 2), possibly named due to this being the place where bales of straw were unloaded for the garrisons of the Doges Palace, and the prison opposite. The straw was used for bedding and possibly for feeding the horses of the garrison.

    It was originally built in 1360, with this present bridge dating from 1847, when it was enlarged.

    Steps lead upto the centre of the bridge, which is divided into 2 parts by a rail that runs the length of the bridge. Part of the year, the steps are covered with ramps- this is during (and for a while after) the Venice marathon, which I believe is in October - So it's a good time for those who require wheelchairs, or are pushing prams/ pushchairs to visit the city.
    Apparently there is a shrine on the bridge that dates from 1580, with a carving of the Virgin known as Madonna dei Gondoliieri (that was added 3 years later) I only became aware of this after my recent visit (I'll put it on my list of things to look for next time)

    Now, this bridge is usually crowded with tourists pointing their cameras, or posing for photos on the left hand side of the bridge, as this is the usual spot for taking photos of another of Venices main attractions - Ponte dei Sospiri, or as it more usually known- The Bridge of Sighs.

    This covered walkway connects the Doges Palace to the prison, State Inquisitors office and the old torture chambers.

    Many romantic stories have arisen from this bridge, some are inaccurate in historical time and detail, but hey, this is a city of romance!

    UPDATE*** JAN 2009 - The Doges Palace is undergoing some renovation work - so it is a different view of the bridge now - as you can see from this photo!

    I particularly enjoyed wandering around here in the early hours of Christmas Day morning, when this photo was taken

    The bridge can be accessed as part of a tour of the Doges Palace -

    I'll return to Ponte dei Sospiri later on this short tour, with a different view of the Bridge.(keep following in order)


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    Address: Ponte della Paglia, San Marco, Venice
    Directions: From San Marco Piazzo, continue forward, with the Doges Palace to your left. You'll soon spot the camera wielding crowds!
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    Castello area: Riva degli Schiavoni
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  • Updated by suvanki on Jan 24, 2009
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    Crossing over Ponte della Paglia, having taken your photo of The Bridge of Sighs, you arrive onto Riva degli Schiavoni - The Dalmations Quay.

    (We have left San Marco sestieri (one of the 6 neighbourhoods of Venice) and are now in Castello sestieri - If You're ever unsure where You are in Venice, the street signs also name the Sestieri - and Yellow signs point to San Marco, Rialto Bridge and other main landmarks)


    The name comes from schiavone-the Italian word for Slav, which in Venice was linked to the word slave. Slave trading was a common occurance in the early life of the city. Most slaves arrived from Dalmatian coastal towns.
    Many of these Slavs were Christian, or converted to the faith, so by the 11th century, the slave trade in Venice ended.

    The quayside, became the location where merchant ships from the ports of the Mediterranean, Adriatic, and further afield unloaded their goods.

    It was such an important transit port, that the area had to be widened between 1780-82 by the architect Tommaso Temanza, to accommodate the increasingly busy trade.

    Apparently a white stone border marks the original boundary. Canaletto's drawings of the Riva during the 1740's and 1750s show an area busy with gondolas, barges and sailing boats.

    The Riva has been one of Venices highly desired addresses, with Petrarch in 1362 (No. 4145) and Henry James (No 4161) residing here. The Hotel Danieli (No 4196) has boasted Dickens, Proust, Wagner and Ruskin as guests. Today it welcomes guests willing to part with 700 Euros for its cheaper rooms - 900 Euro with a lagoon view!

    Nowadays, this popular promenade still continues its trading history, although this time through the many gift shops and souvenir stalls.

    There are also Exchange bureaus, and snack stalls, and You'll no doubt encounter a multitude of street entertainers along your stroll.

    This is a pleasant area to stroll at dusk, as the sun sets over the water.

    For those preferring a longer walk, and to see some of Venices' less visited areas, with views across the water -

    The Riva stretches along the Bacino di San Marco from the Ducal Palace to the Rio Ca'di Dio near the Arsenale Vaporetto stop. Here, the promenade changes its name to Riva Ca' di Dio, until the bridge crossing the Rio dell' Arsenale. The section in front of the Naval museum is The Riva S Biagio, crossing the next bridge you are then on Riva dei Sette Martiri, which is a longer promenade, stretching to near the Giardini Vaporetto stop. Continuing in front of the Giardini Pubblici along the Viale del Giardini Pubblici, then crossing the bridge, you'll find yourself in Sant' Elena at the easternmost end of Venice.


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    Address: Riva degli Schiavani,Castello Venice
    Directions: Vaporetto - SAN ZACCARIA
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    Castello area: Vittorio Emanuele 11 monument
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  • Updated by suvanki on Jan 7, 2008
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  • CASTELLO

    On the Riva degli Schiavoni is this impressive statue to Vittorio Emanuele 11, who was the first king of the united Italy.


    The monument was sculpted by Ettore Ferrari in 1887, and illustrates the ripping off of the chains of Austrian dominance. It depicts Vittorio on horseback on a stone plinth. Below are lions and dragons.

    Between the statue and the next bridge is Pensione Wilder (No 4161), where Henry James completed 'Portrait of A Lady' in 1887


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    Address: Riva degli Schiavani Castello Venice
    Directions: Vaporetto Station- SAN ZACCARIA
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    Churches: La Pieta aka Vivaldis Church
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  • Updated by suvanki on Apr 26, 2009
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    The Church of La Pieta - or Santa Maria della Visitazione was originally a convent, built by Father Pietruccio of Assisi to gather foundlings. There was a convent here as early as 1346.


    The Fathers familiar cry of "Pietà, pietà!“, as he begged for charitable alms, gave the name to the convent.

    The convent expanded over the years.

    It became so popular that a plaque was sited on the outer wall in 1548, promising damnation to families who tried to pass off their children as orphans - the plaque can still be seen on the side wall, in Calle dell Pieta (Pic 2)

    From 1735 -1738 the orphans choir conducted by Antonio Vivaldi in the church attracted fame. (From 1704 - 18 he had been the violin master) While here, Vivaldi wrote numerous vocal pieces, oratorios and cantatas for the choir

    Every Palm Sunday, the doge visited the Orphanage.

    The convent was re-built between 1745 and 1760 by Giorgio Massari. Vivaldi probably advised on the acoustics, although he died before construction began.
    In 1906 the Classical facade was added.

    The building became more of a concert hall than a church, attended by Venetians and visitors. In the 18th Century, the area in front of La Pieta was widened, typical of the era of 'Showiness'. Sadly at the same time, Massari's planned improvements for the orphanage were cacelled - Due to lack of funding!

    The interiors' ceiling is covered in a fresco by Giambattista Tiepolo 'Triumph of Faith' which dates from 1755.

    La Pieta is a popular concert venue for musical performances, mainly Vivaldi pieces throughout the year. Some guide books sniffily refer to these as 2nd rate performances of Vivaldis classic pieces.

    Open June - Oct 10.00 - 12.00 and 15.30 -18.30 daily - Sunday open morning only.
    I've just recently caught part of a programme on BBC4 called Vivaldis Women, which had some interesting information about La Pieta

    Look at the stone relief over the main doorway - A figure of the Madonna and infant is the work of a 19th Century artist - E. Marsili, titled 'Charity' It's unusual, in that the baby Jesus is held informally, with its arms clasping her neck - (see picture 3)

    If you continue down C/de Pieta, you arrive in Campo Bandiera e Moro and see the place where Vivaldi was baptised- S. Giovanni in Bragora - look for the plaque on the outside wall of the church, and the font inside.


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    Phone: 041523 73 95
    Address: Riva Degli Schiavoni
    Directions: After the equestrian statue, cross over the next bridge (over the Rio Dei Greci) and La Pieta is the white fronted building.

    Vaporetto SAN ZACCARIA

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    Castello area: Riva degli Schiavoni - Funfair
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  • Updated by suvanki on Jan 24, 2009
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    Popular with local children and teenagers. I understand that this fair is only open December and January.

    About half a dozen rides, including dodgem cars, side stalls such as a rifle range/hook a duck/ hoola hoops - with the chance to win bottles of whiskey. money etc- but more likely to be a tacky keyring!

    I always find it slightly amusing watching adults desperately trying to win something of less value than the amount of money that they've forked out, in the idea that 'THIS TIME' I'll get it!

    An assortment of foodstalls selling the usual fairground fodder - candy floss, hot dogs, burgers, hot and cold drinks, including small bottles of wine.

    UPDATE- DECEMBER 08 - The fair had expanded in size since my last visit, though Christmas Eve/ Day some stalls/ rides were closed at night.


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    Address: Riva Ca D Dio / Riva Degli Schiavoni Castello
    Directions: This funfair is situated next to the Arsenale Bridge, and stretches nearly to the Pieta

    Vaporetto SAN ZACCARIA or ARSENALE

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    Castello area: Calle delle Rasse and Hotel Danieli
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  • Updated by suvanki on Jan 11, 2008
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    Retracing your steps along the Riva degli Schiavoni, look for the Hotel Danieli. This is the largest and possibly one of the most famous hotels in Venice, and one of the top hotels in the world.

    Originally built as a Palace for the ducal Dandolo family in the 14th century, it became a hotel in 1822, named after its owner Joseph Da Niel. Newer wings were added in the 1940's Apparently its opulent interior is crammed with marble, stained glass, crystal chandeliers, silk covered walls, gilt mirrors and oriental carpets. It also has the uninterrupted view over the lagoon - but this comes with the accompanying noise from the pavement below!


    Between the 2 buildings of the hotel is a narrow street, Calle delle Rasse. Walking along here, you'll see many fish restaurants, bars and shops. When I visited at Christmas, small twinkling white lights decorated the street.

    This street was originally a hive of industry- Rasse was a black strong canvas- like material, that was used to cover the gondolas, to protect their ornate furnishings and fabrics. So manufacturing, selling and sewing of this material took place all along the street, and led to its name.


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    Address: Calle delle Rasse, Castello, Venice
    Directions: Vaporetto SAN ZACCARIA
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    Comments for suvanki about Venice
    Trekki Fri May 22, 2009 22:24 UTC
     Oh Sue, I found so many inspirations already!! Sant'Erasmo B&B sounds fantastic and also to buy kitchenware as memory gifts :-)) And I also attended a mass with tears in my eyes of all that beauty! Back for more!!
    hindu1936 Mon May 4, 2009 16:50 UTC
     Wow! great tips--history, times, schedules, insights-what more can we ask. thanks--keep traveling and writing for us
    aussirose Thu Feb 26, 2009 05:04 UTC
     What a fabulous opening pic Sue! And great tips too!...I saved a few interesting ones in my Trip Planner for when I eventually get there :o).....and yes I'm going to get lost too!!...what fun :o) Cheers, Ann xx
    abi_maha Sat Feb 21, 2009 03:17 UTC
     What a page! I spent 5 days in Venice the only time I visited, except had forgotten a lot of it. Now my memory's refreshed! Thanks for sharing!
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